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Dust Pentaprism & viewfinder of SLR camera body

Dust accumulated in pentaprism of SLR camera body how do I remove or do I have to replace prism?

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Posted on Apr 25, 2010

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Why can't I see through the viewfinder?


sounds like the shutter could be stuck, give it a sharp knock(not too hard) on a counter top, as you work the on off button/switch
all I could find on this , is the manual
press the helpful button
ricoh kr 10 XR 1000X users manual

Feb 03, 2016 | Ricoh KR-10 SE 35mm SLR CAMERA w 50mm f/2...

1 Answer

Picture shift slightltly upwards than viewfinder


The viewfinder of your camera covers about 95% of the picture that is shot. So you should see less in the viewfinder than what is on your photo. So not only to the bottom, but also on top and on the sides, should be more on the picture than in your viewfinder. If the whole picture really shifts, and something is not on the picture, of what you saw in the viewfinder, something must be wrong with your camera. Was it ever dropped? because that could have shifted the pentaprism in the viewfinder. Or the mirror just behind the lens could be a little off?
As long as your pictures cover what you would have in the picture, and they are sharp, don't bother.

Apr 30, 2014 | Sony Alpha DSLR-A200 Digital Camera

1 Answer

Nikon f100 metering selector is not working


Hi David,
Are you talking about the dial on the right side of the pentaprism? If so I believe that entire top can be removed then replaced with a new/used. Check with Nikon for the part number then have your fingers do the walking.

Cordially,

Apr 03, 2013 | Nikon F100 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

When I looking through camera you see almost a prism affect. Ideas?


If you're looking at it through the front then you will as there is a pentaprism inside feeding the lens view through to the viewfinder so that it displays the right way up and right way around. Almost all SLR's have them which is why they have a hump on top.

As long as the image in the viewfinder is correct then there's no problem. If the prism effect is visible, then the prism has become dislodged and on an N65/F65 it's not really worth repairing. The camera is very definitely a consumer grade model which was never intended to be dismantled for major repair and as there are millions of perfectly good free ones available (late, consumer grade, 35mm AF bodies from most manufacturers are seen as worthless liabilities) there's really little point in attempting a repair except to gain knowledge of how your camera comes apart. If you manage to dismantle, repair and reassemble without breaking anything or finding other broken and unobtainable parts inside then it's a bonus.

If you want to find a free SLR then check out FreeCycle: you may need to check often and be patient but they do come up. Be flexible: you may have to accept any make or model but if they come with lenses then it's no problem. Most of the freebies are Nikon or Canon anyway so if you need to stay with Nikon then it's not a major problem. I recently got a boxed and barely used F75 kit with a 28-100 lens and all it needed was new batteries and film.

Aug 30, 2010 | Nikon N65 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Dust Pentaprism & viewfinder of SLR camera body


Having received no response in over a month, I assume this is no longer a problem.

May 10, 2010 | Photography

1 Answer

Cant see through veiwfinder


If it's fuzzy and grey then all you need to do is replace the batteries.

If it's completely dark then remove the lens and look into the lens mounting. If the mirror is stuck in either the fully up or partially up position, then the most likely cause is also a flat battery.

If the mirror is fully down and you still have a completely dark viewfinder then you have either left the lens cap on or you have a dislodged pentaprism (usually the result of a dropped camera). The second problem will put the camera totally beyond any economic repair unless you open it up and try to resecure the pentaprism yourself; it's not really a DIY job and if you find that there are broken parts inside then the camera is destined for the trash can, but you'll have nothing to lose by trying.

Jan 29, 2010 | Nikon N75 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Camera with a sticky substance on the back


It's a very common problem with older cameras and is an irreversible breakdown of the foam which was used to provide light-proof seals on the camera back and also to cover the pentaprism and provide a mirror buffer. (The pentaprism and mirror buffer are part of the viewfinder system).

The first problem is that when the foam turns to goo it allows light to leak into the camera and spoil the film, but that's the least of it. Where it gets serious is that the goo spreads inside and can gum up delicate moving parts; worst of all the goo is somewhat corrosive and can damage the coatings on the pentaprism leaving permanent residual ghosting images in the viewfinder.

The good news is that it's a well understood problem and every professional camera repairer can remove the goo and restore the camera as part of the regular service that all SLR's should periodically undergo. The foam will be replaced by modern materials which do not degrade. Some repairers also replace the mirror buffer, others will just remove the old foam and omit the buffer, but I always insist on a new buffer. At the same time, the repairer will give the camera a thorough CLA service (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust) which for a camera in non-professional use will often see it through a few more years, but I'd recommend getting a CLA done annually if you're well off and every couple of years if funds are tighter. The CLA will also ensure that the light metering is correct and on cameras using the older mercury oxide batteries can include a meter recalibration to allow use of modern silver oxide equivalents which have a higher voltage as the mercury cells are no longer available. (Some folks use manganese dioxide batteries, but they start off at a voltage slightly higher than the camera was designed for and constantly drift down with use to way below the nominal voltage, so metering is neither consistent nor accurate). A regular CLA with foam removal costs a bit more than a regular CLA but is a once only expenditure. Some repairers charge for recalibrating the meter for silver oxide batteries, but most won't if you politely explain that you can always take the camera elsewhere.

DIY kits are also available and some are very good indeed, but they can be fiddly and messy to fit and none of them address the more serious issue of the pentaprism. In practice, repairers will remove the old foam from the pentaprism but almost never fit a replacement. It's not strictly necessary and the reluctance to fit a replacement stems from the risk of further damage to the pentaprism by the adhesive. The outside of the pentaprism is normally painted black from new, but foam goo usually attacks the paint and partially removes it. it also attacks and removes any optical multicoatings on the prism. When this has occurred there is no fix: the problem will not worsen once the foam has been removed but there will be residual damage visible in the viewfinder as ghostly dull patches, but this is something which can be tolerated and will not affect image quality.

If you want a cheap quick fix, then use a q-tip (UK= cotton bud), a wooden cocktail stick/toothpick and some alcohol to remove all visible traces of gooey foam. Omit the mirror buffer altogether and take your chances with the prism foam. To replace the rear light seal just use a length of woollen yarn: you'll find that if you twist it slightly it will reduce in diameter and allow you to press it into the slot where the foam was using a toothpick. Usually you can get away without gluing it, but if any glue must be used then use a few very sparing dots of something easily removed such as Copydex or the rubber cement sold for repairing bicycle inner tubes. At the hinge end of the camera back will be a thicker, wider bit of foam. Just use a few dabs of glue or to secure a good thick double or even triple width of yarn. The fix isn't a professional one, but it's good enough and was how the seals were made before rubber foam was invented. It also buys you the time to decide whether you like using your Nikon enough to invest in a professional CLA with the additional options.

I hope that my reply has given you a few options and will enable you to get your camera into working condition again. All I ask is that you return the favour by taking a moment to rate my answer.

Jan 09, 2010 | Nikon Photography

1 Answer

Canon AV-1: Seal on the


Very much so!

It's a very common problem with older cameras and is an irreversible breakdown of the foam which was used to provide light-proof seals on the camera back and also to cover the pentaprism and provide a mirror buffer. (The pentaprism and mirror buffer are part of the viewfinder system).

The first problem is that when the foam turns to goo it allows light to leak into the camera and spoil the film, but that's the least of it. Where it gets serious is that the goo spreads inside and can gum up delicate moving parts; worst of all the goo is somewhat corrosive and can damage the coatings on the pentaprism leaving permanent residual ghosting images in the viewfinder.

The good news is that it's a well understood problem and every professional camera repairer can remove the goo and restore the camera as part of the regular service that all SLR's should periodically undergo. The foam will be replaced by modern materials which do not degrade. Some repairers also replace the mirror buffer, others will just remove the old foam and omit the buffer, but I always insist on a new buffer. At the same time, the repairer will give the camera a thorough CLA service (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust) which for a camera in non-professional use will often see it through a few more years, but I'd recommend getting a CLA done annually if you're well off and every couple of years if funds are tighter. The CLA will also ensure that the light metering is correct and on cameras using the older 5.4v mercury oxide (PX28) batteries can include a meter recalibration to allow use of modern 6.2v silver oxide (4SR44) equivalents as the mercury cells are no longer available. (Some folks use 6v manganese dioxide [PX28A] batteries, but they start off at a voltage slightly higher than 6v and constantly drift down with use to below 5v, so metering is nneither consistent nor accurate). A regular CLA with foam removal costs a bit more than a regular CLA but is a once only expenditure. Some repairers charge for recalibrating the meter for 6.2v, but most won't if you politely explain that you can always take the camera elsewhere.

DIY kits are also available and some are very good indeed, but they can be fiddly and messy to fit and none of them address the more serious issue of the pentaprism. In practice, repairers will remove the old foam from the pentaprism but almost never fit a replacement. It's not strictly necessary and the reluctance to fit a replacement stems from the risk of further damage to the pentaprism by the adhesive. The outside of the pentaprism is normally painted black from new, but foam goo usually attacks the paint and partially removes it. it also attacks and removes any optical multicoatings on the prism. When this has occurred there is no fix: the problem will not worsen once the foam has been removed but there will be residual damage visible in the viewfinder as ghostly dull patches, but this is something which can be tolerated and will not affect image quality.

If you want a cheap quick fix, then use a q-tip (UK= cotton bud), a wooden cocktail stick/toothpick and some alcohol to remove all visible traces of gooey foam. Omit the mirror buffer altogether and take your chances with the prism foam. To replace the rear light seal just use a length of woollen yarn: you'll find that if you twist it slightly it will reduce in diameter and allow you to press it into the slot where the foam was using a toothpick. Usually you can get away without gluing it, but if any glue must be used then use a few very sparing dots of something easily removed such as Copydex or the rubber cement sold for repairing bicycle inner tubes. At the hinge end of the camera back will be a thicker, wider bit of foam. Just use a few dabs of glue or to secure a good thick double or even triple width of yarn. The fix isn't a professional one, but it's good enough and was how the seals were made before rubber foam was invented. It also buys you the time to decide whether you like using the AV-1 enough to invest in a professional CLA with the additional options.

I hope that my reply has given you a few options and will enable you to get your camera into working condition again. All I ask is that you return the favour by taking a moment to rate my answer.

Jan 05, 2010 | Canon AV1 35mm SLR CAMERA SPARES OR REPAIR...

1 Answer

Just bought Nikon D60. No matter what mode I use


looks like a viewfinder has an issue. If you have recently bought the thing just return it and get a new one. If not possible to replace , i recommend visiting Nikon authorised service center.
Could be something in the path of pentaprism.

Jun 13, 2009 | Nikon D60 Digital Camera with 18-55mm lens

2 Answers

Viewfinder Obstruction


If the dust/dirt is visible in the finder, it is in one of three locations: - if very sharp, it is on the "grind" side of the viewing screen, which, unfortunately for cleaning ease [unless the screen is user-removeable], is often the upper side of the screen in newer cameras. - if fairly sharp, it is on the non-"grind" side of the screen, and it may be possible to remove it with a VERY soft (very clean!) small brush or a VERY gentle blowing with a hand syringe-type blower (blowing hard into a VF area just about guarantees that dust will be blown in). - if very soft-looking, it is on the underside surface of the pentaprism (being able to clean the VF area without a repair is an excellent arguement for having the interchangeable-screen feature...). Prevention is the best way - never leave the body cavity uncovered (except briefly, when changing lenses); never change lenses in a windy area; keep the rear area of the lens clean; get in the habit of facing the open camera downward while changing lenses; NEVER blow into the body cavity (unless you know what you are doing, the mirror is up, or the screen is removeable). Hope This Helps

Oct 27, 2005 | Nikon Coolpix 3200 Digital Camera

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