When fueling with saw on side, fuel runs out the clear plastic hose that pushes into top of fuel tank

Its usually just a rubber or clear plastic hose that runs from the bottom of the tank to a barbed push on connector at the side of the carb.

check fuel hose and fuel filter position in fuel tank, if filter is stuck at top of tank saw will run out of fuel, also is hose has a crack or break it will not run properly.

This is not as easy as it sounds, this machine uses a micro bore hose which is an interference fit in the tank, to replace it you will need to remove the fuel tank from the saw, to do this start by removing the guide bar and chain, remove the three screws securing the top cover and remove, remove the two screws holding the air filer and remove, remove the two 10mm nuts hloding the filer back plate and remove, remove the two 7mm head boltssecuring the carb, remove the two cross head screws securing the metal bracket against the carb, lift the carb away with the throttle wire and choke pull attached, diss conect the fuel hose, now remove the four screws holding the starter cover on, two screws are self tapping and go into the plastic cranlcase the other two are machine screws and go into the anti vib mounts, when replacing make sure they go back in the same holes in the starter cover, on the other side of the saw remove the 4mm allen screw securing the chain catcher in the bottom r/h side of the saw, this also screws into an anti vibe mount, remove the cross head screw at the top l/h side of the saw and remove the orange plastic square cover, the fuel tank will now drop out of the bottom of the saw with the top handle still connected,pull the old fuel hose out through the the fuel filler hole with the filter still connected, ncut a point on one end of the new fuel hose and push down through the top of the tank, grab with a pair of long nose pliers through the filler hole and pull the hose in, trim the end and re fit the filter, allow enough hose to allow the filter to move around in the tank, re fit the tank and securing screws, re build in reverse of diss assembly.

This is not as easy as it sounds, this machine uses a micro bore hose which is an interference fit in the tank, to replace it you will need to remove the fuel tank from the saw, to do this start by removing the guide bar and chain, remove the three screws securing the top cover and remove, remove the two screws holding the air filer and remove, remove the two 10mm nuts hloding the filer back plate and remove, remove the two 7mm head boltssecuring the carb, remove the two cross head screws securing the metal bracket against the carb, lift the carb away with the throttle wire and choke pull attached, diss conect the fuel hose, now remove the four screws holding the starter cover on, two screws are self tapping and go into the plastic cranlcase the other two are machine screws and go into the anti vib mounts, when replacing make sure they go back in the same holes in the starter cover, on the other side of the saw remove the 4mm allen screw securing the chain catcher in the bottom r/h side of the saw, this also screws into an anti vibe mount, remove the cross head screw at the top l/h side of the saw and remove the orange plastic square cover, the fuel tank will now drop out of the bottom of the saw with the top handle still connected,pull the old fuel hose out through the the fuel filler hole with the filter still connected, ncut a point on one end of the new fuel hose and push down through the top of the tank, grab with a pair of long nose pliers through the filler hole and pull the hose in, trim the end and re fit the filter, allow enough hose to allow the filter to move around in the tank, re fit the tank and securing screws, re build in reverse of diss assembly.

The fuek hose is a push fit into the fuel tak, trim the end of the pipe to a point and push down through the top of the tank, grab the end of the hose through the fuel filler hole with a pair of long nose pliers and pull the hose into the tank, the other end goes onto the carb inlet on the right hand side of the carb body,

This applies to 99 and later FI models. (Note, Removal for Carbed Bikes is simpler only needing the fuel line removed from the petcock plus a vent line or two)

It will be make things much easier if you drain the tank if you're doing this by yourself. Otherwise you'll probably need a helper to hold the tank while you disconnect hoses from the bottom. All you need is a siphon hose (and what teenager has never used one of those on dad's car eh?). If a piece of 1/2" garden hose isn't handy visit your auto supply store and pick up three or four feet of clear (so you can see the gas coming toward your mouth) 1/2" id (or close) plastic fuel line. Sometimes it's sold off a big spool sometimes pre-packaged hanging on a peg. You can also find clear hose at many hardware stores (even Home Depot & Lowes).

Follow the instructions below up to #8 (so the tank is loose) and put a block of wood under the rear of the tank so it's tilted forward slightly. Put your hose in the tank, apply suction (hopefully without getting a mouth full of hydrocarbon) and transfer fuel to another container.

Special Caution: Do NOT remove the pressurized hose if the engine has just been running or even if you've had the key on in the past few minutes. If the hose is removed before pressure has a chance to bleed off you WILL spray gasoline all over your bike and maybe yourself.

1. Remove the seat
2. Remove the chrome instrument surround (take out bolt and slide the surround forward)
3. Slide the speedometer assembly forward and off (if digital), lift out and disconnect speedo cable if analog.
4. Disconnect wires from speedometer assembly and set assembly aside in a safe place
5. Disconnect the other 2 wire connectors. It'll be handy to have a small flat blade screwdriver for this so you can push down on the catches while pulling the connectors apart
6. Remove front cap nut and rear tank bolt. Both are 12 mm.
7. Remove the one or two vent hoses you can see at the rear of the tank. (California bikes have two vents, most others use one).
8. Lift the front of the tank and put a folded shop towel on top of the engine right under the fuel lines. You'll get a few drops out of the lines when they're unplugged.

At this point a helper will be real handy to hold the tank up while you disconnect the fuel and vent lines especially if there's any fuel in the tank.


9. Remove the the fuel return hose...(the one with the metal clamp). A little gas might come out.
10. Remove the pressurized fuel hose...this one has a "squeeze" fitting. You just squeeze on each side of it with your fingers, push the fitting up toward the tank just a little then (while holding the 'buttons' in wiggle side to side to release it. A few drops of fuel might drip but the rag should take care of it.
11. Remove the square plastic piece and vent hose on the right side of the tank. It's next to the fuel line you just removed and covers some electrical connections.
12. Remove the vent line toward the rear of the tank. This line runs to the collection of vent hoses near the rear of the engine.
12. Finally, Remove the tank.

It probably took you longer to read all that than to actually do it and once you've removed the tank you won't hesitate to do it again for general maintenance especially if there's any chance you could drop something on it.

Re-assembly is in reverse order.

Caution!!!!! The hose with the 45 degree angle plastic connection with squeeze sides must snap into place when it's re-attached to the tank. If you don't hear it snap then you are at very high risk of having the hose slip off the tank fitting when the line pressurizes or maybe as you're rolling down the street. When that happens you will be pumping gasoline directly onto the top of your rear cylinder. A decidedly bad thing. Be Certain It Snaps!!!!

I guess we are talking about the Husqvarna 41/141, start by removing the guide bar and chain, remove top cover, disconnect and remove the throttle wire, remove the fuel hose from the carb, use a 4mm allen key and remove the front anti vibration rubber screw ( drive side, bottom front r/h, holding the alloy chain catcher ) now remove the top anti vibration rubber screw with a cross head screw driver ( top l/h holding an orange plate ) now remove the four screws securing the starter cover, two screws are into the plastic crankcase, and two are into the anti vibration rubbers, the fuel tank should now pull out from the bottom of the saw withe top handle still connected, make sure the fuel hose feeds out of the crankcase as you pull the tank away.

I'm so confused. This is reported as a Poulan and McCulloch pole saw, which one? Is it a pole saw? That is the only 445 Poulan I can find. It is reported as an electric but has a fuel routing problem.

If it is a Poulan Pro gas pole saw it is here: PP445 Gas Pole Pruner
The fuel system routing is terrible, but it is all there is.
Fuel Routing follows:
Tank to carburetor (hose in tank with filter on free end)
Carburetor to primer (primer draws fuel from the tank through the carb)
Primer to fuel tank (returns any excess fuel to tank when pushed) HTH
Lou

The Fuel Pump is Located In the Fuel TANK and is ONLY Accessable With TANK REMOVED

I too have a rancher 55 and had what sounds like the same problem this week. It would start fine but run for only a few seconds at a time. I took it all apart today and found the problem - a cracked fuel line. In the places where I could see the hose it looked fine, but it wasn't until I removed the fuel tank that I found the crack...right where it exits the tank and then goes thru the housing above it. You don't need to remove the tank to replace the hose but it is easier that way. You do have to push it thru a grommet at the top of the tank. I read some other posts about checking the tank vent to see that it's not plugged up. Mine was ok so I knew it had to be something else. The vent is in a hole about the size of a pencil and is recessed about an inch into the tank on the upper right side. Its partially covered by a plastic cap that's part of the vibration damper, which can be removed to gain access to the vent. The vent tube can then be pushed out from inside the tank with the use of long needle nose pliers, but be gentle. I just loosened it then pushed it out with a finger. I put it all back together with a new hose and its running like new again!