Question about Whirlpool RF378 Electric Kitchen Range
Whirlpool RF378 electric range, never use the broiler and when on bake cycle the broiler comes on and stays on, we unplug it and plug it back in and it starts up again with everything off??
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Before you replace the range, I'd try replacing the oven temp sensor (part number
WB21T10007 ) which is rather inexpensive. If I were able to get my hands on your range I'd first test to see if the control is sending 240 volts to the bake element. We know there is 240 to the range because the burners and broiler work, but is the control sending the full 240 to the bake element ? The only way for you to know this is to use a meter and test the voltage across the terminals of the bake element when in bake. Of course you should also test the bake element with power off and at least one terminal disconnected to see if you have about 20 ohms resistance across the terminals and no resistance from a terminal to the frame of the range. If not, you may need a new bake element (part number
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Posted on Nov 08, 2008
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
In addition to what aborcass stated, I just had to fix the same problem. Remeber to turn off the power before you do this. On my stove the element acess is behind the side panel (right side when facing the stove). You remove two screws on the back and one underneath at the bottom, (you need to pull out the drawer). Once screws are out, slide the side panel forward gently about an inch and it should just drop off.
You should see the wires for the element level with the bottom of the stove. The wires will guide you to the element. And you should see that the element is screwed in with two screws to the stove. This is the tricky bit, to remove the element follow the metal piece holding the element to the right until you see a third screw. Remove this screw and the whole thing will come out. Take off the wires, replace the element on the metal strip, slide the element and metal strip back into the stove (take care to ensure the left side of the metal strip slides into the proper position under the metal clasp. Re-attach the screw, plug the wires onto the element and turn the power back on. You should have heat.
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
First, the flame should be blue and without much visible yellow. You need to give the gas tube a good cleaning to get out any soot buildup and any partial obstuctions that might be causing the problem. Since you started with a yellow flame and soot, you need to get the burner tubes clean to see if you have resolved the problem after adjusting the regulator and burner valve(s).
You might need to install a different regulator to match the pressure of your gas supply source, as regulators have a specific working range of inlet (supply gas pressure) that they can operate properly at to "regulate" the supply pressure to the stove's needed pressure.
Check your manual and the installation guide to verify what the gas inlet pressure requirements are and check with your gas supplier to see what they are providing you.
To your 2nd question, yes, the gas will cycle on and off when you are using the oven, since the thermostat will call for more heat when needed and shut off the gas/flame once the temperature you set the control at, has been reached. The cycling is a result of the oven trying to maintain the desired temperature for baking.
One reason that you can smell gas when the oven is being used, is because all gas ovens have a surface vent to allow excess heat to escape from the oven compartment, however you should not be smelling raw gas (actually you're smelling the "rotten egg" additive that's put in the gas) all the time, since when the oven is turned on, a small electric ignitor is heated up VERY HOT glowing bright orange inside the oven compartment. Once it's hot enough a sensor opens the gas valve and lets gas into the burner tube to be ignited instantly by the VERY HOT ignitor. It is rare to smell raw gas with this system, but sometimes you'll get a stronger "rotten egg" smell at different times due to the gas company and their system, etc.
As to the gas smell, you should NOT be smelling gas every time the oven cycles on when baking, as a normal ongoing occurrence. During the first few uses, it is normal to smell some gas, but this should go away after a couple of uses. If it doesn't, you should look to make sure the regulator and oven controls are PROPERLY configured and set - Since you've already fiddled with these, it's probably a good idea to have someone from your gas company (or a gas appliance tech) come out and do this. Improper settings can cause some serious problems.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
Oven suddenly stopped to work.
After trying to turn on "bake" or "broil" I can hear couple clicks but nothing else happens.
No flame/no gas is coming out.
Posted on Jun 11, 2010
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