Question about Pioneer TS-W307D4 Car Subwoofer

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Hi, my sub doesnt seem to be working, at first I thought my amp might be the problem because using a multimeter, the output voltage to the sub seemed quite low (less than a volt I think it was). I decided to go online to do the 9v battery test, and it did not seem to work, I then decided to go about testing the resistance, as I read somewhere that this can abe a good way to test the sub. Now, because this sub is dual 4ohm with 2 positive inputs and 2 negative inputs (4ohm each), i tested each one of these and found that one was right (about 4 ohm) and the other didnt read at all. Can it be said that the problem is definitely my sub because the resistance didnt measure on one of them, and the battery test failed? Could there still be a problem with my Amplifier due to the low output voltage? What are typical output voltages heading to the sub? the amp is a pioneer gm 7200m 800w monoblock

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  • frederator Apr 25, 2010

    Thanks, certainly cleared things up

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The sub is bad, as indicated by your testing. The amp will not put out much more than you got when you tested it, untill its under a load....with a bad sub, there will be no load. Get a new sub and you will be all fixed up.

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

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My gilera seems to have voltage drop and cause my engine to cut off when i press my brake.


Hi, Herman the following is a comprehensive charging system test that is guaranteed to the find issue with your system.
1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter lead.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.com.pdf

Feb 21, 2017 | Gilera Motorcycles

1 Answer

03 wr 250 is blowing light bulbs


Hi, Dean the following is a comprehensive charging system test that I found on a Rider Groups website 1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
2004 wr250f blowing bulbs
03 WR450 lights blowing
YAMAHA WR250F Owner Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-wr-owners-manuals

Nov 08, 2012 | 2003 Yamaha WR 250 F

1 Answer

2002 ford taurus fan doesn't work


Does it work on any speed..If not check the relay..If it works on high only,,its the fan resister..If all fails you have to unhook the the fan wire and check for voltage with a test light or multimeter..If you have voltage then the motor is bad

Apr 28, 2012 | 2002 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

My sub make a strange noise. It doesen't work anymore.Tks.


Strange noises can come from your amplifier or the sub itself. The most likely cause of the strange noise is the speaker just before it dies! If you have been using the sub-woofer at high volume levels then you probably have damaged it. Try testing the sub-woofer using a multimeter(on ohms setting) it should give you a reading from 8 to 4 ohms. Sometimes they may give readings as low as 1 ohm. When testing the speaker/sub you should hear a soft scratchy, thumping or clicking sound. This indicates that the speaker may still be working. If you don't have a multimeter try a 1.5 volt battery (say a AA), DONT USE HIGHER VOLTAGE BATTERIES they may damage the speaker! You will hear a clicking, scratching etc sound from the speaker which may indicate that it is still OK. If the speaker seems OK the problem may be in the amplifier, which I suggest you bring to a professional repairer. When buying speakers and amplifiers make sure the power handling of the speaker is equal to or greater than the amplifier output power. This should stop speakers from getting damaged. Make sure the speaker and amplifier specifications are rated in the same manner ie RMS PMPO Peak. A 100 Watt PMPO speaker will not survive the output of a 100Watt RMS amplifier!

Feb 08, 2011 | Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

Hi ive just bought a 2nd hand sub n amp,wired them up and i can only get the amp 2 work,my other subs work plugged into the same amp just to check but the xplod wont,im not getting anything wot so ever,i...


Hello empsglen,

If the sub voice coil is open, you will get exactly no sound. No crackling, nothing.

Use a multimeter to check the sub voice coil. If the meter reads infinity, the coil is open and to the amp, it's as if there's no sub connected, and you will need to replace it.

Hope this helps.

Jul 15, 2009 | Sony Xplode P5 Turbo Subwoofers Car...

1 Answer

Alpine x200 Subwoofer Preout pushing out a weak signal


Hi, just turn up the gain, though the max voltage may be higher, it does not mean the audible output is higher, alpine decks subwoofer control is an attenuator, so at max it will be the same level as front n rear, on min it is -15db... you will probably find the kenwood is +/- 7db so it has a gain boost...
just crank up the amp gains, problem sorted...

Dec 11, 2008 | Alpine iDA-X200 Car CD/ MP3 Player

1 Answer

No subwoofer output


yes, you do have to set up the sub output in the reciever.

May 17, 2008 | JVC RX-8020V Receiver

1 Answer

Cant figure out my car audio problems!!!!!


There are a couple of tests you can perform. I'd first recommend checking the shield ground. You'll need an ohm meter. The details can be found on the following page.

RCA shield ground test

You can also test the output with the multimeter. Set the multimeter to AC volts. If it's not an auto-ranging meter, set it to a voltage range of ~2v AC. Disconnect the RCA cables from the head unit. Touch one meter probe to the outer ring of the head unit's RCA jack. Touch the other probe to the metal contact in the center of the RCA jack. With the head unit near full volume and a clean signal source, you should read at least one volt on musical peaks. If you have a bass disc or a test tone disc (~60hz sine wave), use those.

May 04, 2008 | MTX Thunder 8302 Car Audio Amplifier

1 Answer

JBL Sub Amp Wiring Please


it seems rather redundant to bridge a mono amp. Unless the instruction manual states otherwise, i would assume that one speaker output is identical to the other (ran in parallel, like an A or B speaker, not like Left or Right), and you would present the amp with a two ohm load by wiring one speaker to each output. Bridging it may or may not work, but, again, it just seems redundant.

Mar 01, 2008 | Car Audio & Video

2 Answers

Amp wont power on


The only effective way to troubleshoot this is with a digital multimeter. Test for voltage on the power terminal and the remote terminal (using the ground terminal for your black probe). If you have voltage on both terminals, check the amp's built-in fuses; if they're good, then you must have a defective amp. If you have voltage on the remote terminal, but none on the power terminal, check your fuse and fuse holder at the front. It's not unusual to have a blown or defective fuse that looks okay.

Jul 26, 2007 | Profile AP1200 Car Audio Amplifier

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