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Do bears **** in the woods - Dell 2.8 GHz Second Processor for PowerEdge 830 Server Pentium 4 (DF904) Processor Upgrade

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I THINK THEY DO wich i knew what you wanted....

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

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What year was a Fred Bear bow made that has writing on the riser 9R865 AMO-56 45#, ON THE LIMB IS PRINTED, BEAR GLASS POWERED GRIZZLY. The bow also has a copper BEAR medallion.


DATING YOUR FRED BEAR BOW

There are several features and changes that were made to the bear bows over the years that will help narrow the age of your bow or your potential investment.


1. The Serial Number: These bows usually have, what appears to be a hand inscription on one of the limbs that gives a serial number along with the length and pull weight of the bow. This serial number works very well for dating Bear Bows from 1965-1969 when the first digit of the serial number is the year of manufacture.

For example, a serial number of 5L212 would be a 1965 Bow.

Prior to 1965, the serial numbers for all Bear bows were started over every month, making these bows almost impossible to date by serial number alone. The "K" series of serial numbers (for example KZ9672) were started in 1970.


2. Patent Mark: Most of the BEAR Bows we have sold have the logo and the US Patents printed on it along with the date of CANADA 1953. This date that is printed on all bows made between 1953 and 1972 is simply the date of the patent for a working recurve limb and has nothing to do with the actual model year.


3. Decals & Silkscreening: In 1948 the small Running Bear decal was first and then was replaced by the large Standing Bear decal in mid-1953. The large Standing Bear decal also has the words "Glass Powered Bow" under the Standing Bear.

The large Standing Bear decal was used until 1955 when it was replaced with silk-screening the identification on the bows. By 1956 the silk-screening appeared on all bows.


4. All Wood vs Laminate: If your bow is ALL wood (no laminations of any kind) then your bow had to be made before the mass productions beginning in 1949.
  • If the ALL wood bow has a stamp that reads "Bear Products" in some form it would have been made before the early to mid 40's.
  • If it is stamped "Bear Archery" it would have been made AFTER the early-mid 40's and BEFORE 1949.
  • Also wooden bows with a small "Running Bear" decal can be dated to 1948

5. The Leather Grip: ALL Bear bows had leather grips until 1959. In 1959, the Kodiak Special removed the leather grip and in 1961 the Kodiak did the same, as well as the Grizzly in 1964.


6. The Coin Medallion: Beginning in 1959 all Bear bows had a coin medallion of one type of metal or another. Below are the approx date ranges for the type of coin used.

Copper Coin - 1959
Aluminum - 1960-1961
Pewter - 1962
Brass - 1963 - 1970
Nickel-Silver - 1971-1972

ALL coins were flush with the wood until 1972. In late 1972 the coin was raised above the surface of the bow and came in both gold and chrome covered plastic and are still used in Bear bows today.


7. Manufacturer Location: in 1978 Bear moved all manufacturing and offices to Gainesville, Florida. If your bow shows Gainesville on it then it was made after 1978


8. Model Of The Bow: Check the Model of the bow. Below is a yearly production chart for the most popular Bear Bows.

Wood Handle Take-Down 1969-1972
Wood C-Riser Victor Custom 1973-1975
Magnesium Handle Take-Down A-B-C 1971-1978
Kodiak Static Recurve 1950-1953
Kodiak Recurve 1954-1966
Super Kodiak 1967-1976
Grizzly Static Recurve 1949-1957
Grizzly Recurve 1958-1978
Super Magnum 48 1966-1976
Kodiak Magnum 52" 1961-1977
Kodiak Hunter 58" and 60" 1967-1977
Tamerlane 1962-1968
Tamerlane HC-30 1965-1967
Tamerlane HC-300 1968-1972
Kodiak Special 1955-1967
Temujin 1968-1970
Tarter 1968-1972
Victor Patriot 1973-1977
Victor 1972
Polar (recurve) 1957-1970
Alaskan (leather grip semi-recurve) 1959-1961
Alaskan (recurve) 1966-1970
Tigercat 1964-1978
Bearcat 1964-1971
Black Bear 1972-1978
Little Bear 1965-1978

With this information you should be able to get really close to dating your Bear Bow if not pin-pointing it to the year.

Oct 11, 2017 | Vehicle Parts & Accessories

1 Answer

Rear bearings


As I said, all wheel bearings are replaceable. Remove the bearing cover, remove the split pin, undo the castleated nut, remove the hub. Push the bearing out from the rear. There is usually a small ring of bearing seat visible from the rear. I used to use a large socket with the extension bar and a good sized hammer with the hub on a block of wood.

Nov 24, 2015 | 2007 Kia Sorento 4x4

1 Answer

How i change 2 by 6 beam in load bearing wall? I want to put timber wood back in place of loD bearing? What is the load on wall?


The load on the wall is determined by the type of structure and what is above the load beam. Instead of trying to replace the load bearing element, would it not be easier to cover the existing beam with wood as sheathing to give the rustic appearance you are looking for?

You can specify the thickness and finish, and when joined properly it will look fine. This will keep you from having to jack and support the adjoining ceilings on both sides, and avoid inviting possible further Damage to the structure.

It can be done, but it will not be cheap or easy.

Mar 24, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Replacing bearinon spindle housing


Remove deck and place on two boxes or saw horses so that you can access both top and bottom of bolts holding spindle housing. Remove drive pulley from spindle. Remove cutting blade. Remove four bolts holding spindle housing to deck frame, noting which way grease nipple is pointing. Take spindle housing off and scrub deck frame clean of rust etc and also clean housing with wire brush. To remove bearings, look for retainers such as nuts or circlips. Remove these and ensure that the shaft is clean so bearing can be slid off. Apply CRC or light oil to assist bearing removal. Use a vise and set jaws wide enough that the bearing outside can fit between. This is usually 45 to 50mm. [1 3/4" to 2"] Place a hard wood block [or something that will not bruise the thread such as solid nylon] and screw nut well on to thread but make sure there is space for movement between nut and bearing. Firmly tap spindle end. Shaft should go down into top bearing and bottom bearing should start to emerge between vice jaws. Make sure that there is always space between nut and bearing before knocking end of shaft again. To knock top bearing out, place it on bottom over vise jaws and take a length of wood such as a section of broom handle and knock it out. Normally there should be no seals on the inside of these spindle bearings as they are greased from a grease gun thru the grease nipple.

Sep 26, 2014 | Garden

1 Answer

How to replace spindle bearings on woods l59 woods mower


well last time I looked their spindle assy's weren't rebuildable. since I cant remember I will say this, you have to remove the center bolt to explore further...

Sep 02, 2014 | Garden

1 Answer

Axle noise


If you have the out end clear of the wheel bearing hub

then you put a piece of wood on against the transaxle
& use a long pry bar against the wood & axle to pop it out
of the case

Only a Circle Clip holding it

The wood is to prevent prying on trans
Try to put end of bar on something other
than trans if you can

Sep 18, 2012 | 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

1 Answer

Lg washer front loader wm2277hs drum bearing replacing


Check online videos. YouTube.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Use block of wood to pound out old bearings. Use old bearings and block of wood to seat new bearings.

Aug 25, 2017 | LG Washing Machines

1 Answer

My care bearing is goin out


Remove the drive shaft from the truck. Using WD40 or PB blaster lube the bearing shaft and bearing housing. Allow it to soak for 20 minutes. Using a hammer and block of wood tap the bearing with housing off the shaft. Clean the shaft and tap the new bearing on.

Dec 05, 2011 | Dodge Ram Pickup 3500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What tools do i need to replace front wheel bearing hub assembly


Floor jack- jack car up and put a jack stand under it. A tire lug to remove tire. A 36 mm socket to unbolt axle shaft sticking through bearing hub. Next a Brass hammer with a block of wood. Next center wood on axle shaft sticking through bearing hub and hit with a 4lb brass or steel hammer with a wood block on shaft. Next you need a 10mm or 12mm socket on back side of bearing hub should have 3 bolts holding it unbolt. Last use a pry bar and gradually pry bearing out and no there not pressed in like a lot of people think.
(Socket sizes maybe different)
If you take it somewhere it would cost about $800 and up.

May 03, 2009 | 2000 Pontiac Grand Am GT

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