Question about Dryers

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DRYER WILL NOT GET CLOTHS DRY

WASH AND GET THINGS CLEAN. NEXT STEP IS PUT THEM IN THE DRYER. IT WILL GO AROUND, BUT NOT DRY. PUT THINGS IN FOR HOURS AND THEY COME OUT DAMP. THIS HAS 01-95 BUILD DATE

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  • snowsnake845 Mar 23, 2008

    This a Frigidaire fron loading gas FDG436RBS1

  • snowsnake845 Apr 03, 2008

    The hole on the front does not show a glow.

  • Anonymous Mar 27, 2014

    When the wheel gets to the stop position it just keeps going past it to the next selection

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  • 131 Answers

A dryer needs only three things to dry clothes:
1. Tumble the clothes.
2. Blow the air.
3. Heat the air.

If your clothes aren't drying, you are missing one or more of these.

You've mentioned that the basket is tumbling. That's good. The blower is also running if the motor is turning. But that doesn't mean the air is blowing. It could be clogged up behind the lint screen, in the vent pipe behind the machine, or at the vent outside the house.

If it's blowing lots of cold air (go to the outside vent to find out) then your dryer isn't heating. This would mean some part inside the dryer has failed. If so, the first thing you want to determine is, does the ignitor glow? There's a hole at the very bottom front edge where you might see it glow. You may have to place a mirror in front of the hole to see it glow.

Write back with more symptoms, and I'll help you through the rest.

Posted on Mar 24, 2008

  • Michael Grimshaw Apr 04, 2008

    If the ignitor isn't glowing, that means either it doesn't have power, or the ignitor itself has failed.

    You will need a multimeter to determine what's wrong.

    Unplug the machine. While working inside the machine, it is very easy to get cut on the metal edges.

    Use a putty knife along the front edge, about 2 in from each side to push in the spring clips and release the top panel. Tilt the top up on the back hinges.

    Remove the screw holding the yellow plastic thing on to the center of the top front rail.

    Unplug any wires to the door switch. Remember where they go, but they're also different sized connectors.

    Remove the screws, one on each side - inside the frame, about 6 in down from the top. Pull the top of the front panel out, and lift it off the hinge on the bottom. (it may be hard to pull, as it snaps into place.)

    Check the three white plastic glides across the top of the front felt bearing. If any of them are missing or worn through, it's time for a new top bearing. Set the front panel aside.

    Reach under the basket and disconnect the belt from the motor pulley. Remember how it's connected. Remove the belt from the machine.

    This next step is the most likely place to get cut. You should wear some leather gloves if available. Lift the top rear of the basket to disengage the ball-and socket rear bearing. It should lift up about 1 in. Remove the basket. Check the bearing itself. It should be smooth, without deep rings or gouges in it. The white socket in the back should still have some grease in it, and no rusty powder. A rear bearing kit is available, if needed. (BTW, Use all the parts provided, and the small silver ball goes between the white cup and the bracket behind the machine. A bit of grease will hold it to the cup while you assemble the pieces.) Set the basket aside.

    Now you have access to all the parts that could be the cause your trouble. Every part should allow current to go through it. (Less than 15 ohms.) Use the ohmmeter on the lowest scale. The ohmmeter setting is marked with the greek letter Omega. You will need to disconnect at least one wire from each component as you take your measurements to prevent misleading results.

    I'll list the possible parts in order of probability: There is a thermostat next to the blower wheel. Another thermostat is bolted to the metal housing at the top back right. The black box on the left of the burner tube is the optical switch. The ignitor itself has two white fabric-covered wires going to it.

    Find the part that measures "open" (i.e. the reading on the meter doesn't change when you connect the test leads to the connectors) and replace that part.

    If you don't have access to an ohmmeter, you can bring the suspected part(s) to your local parts store and they will be able to tell you if they are good or bad. But I'd leave the ignitor in place unless you plan to change it (it's fragile and you must not touch the grey part).

    While you have it apart, be sure to clean the chamber under the door, behind the lint screen. Remove the two screws holding on the plastic grate to make this easier. Scrape, rub and vacuum as much lint as you can. This is also a good time to vacuum the lint that has accumulated in the bottom of the machine. Be careful to not blow or shove the lint further into the motor or other rotating parts.

    Reassemble by reversing the above directions.



    Good luck!

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How to receive the best dryer repair help on FixYa


There are a couple of things that you should include in your dryer repair question so you receive the quickest and most accurate answers.


1. Model Number

The model number can be located on the model/serial number tag that is located on the dryer.

Make sure you get the full model number from this tag and not the model number from the owners manual.

The model number from the owners manual only includes the first few digits of the full model number because they include that owners manual with many similar models of dryers.

With the full model number I'm able to look up factory service manuals, tech sheets, wiring diagrams, factory service pointers and so much more.


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