Question about GE Spectra JBP78 Electric Kitchen Range

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How do I replace the bottom heating element. I took out two screws which attached it to the back of the stove and I thought it would just come out but it is still attached. How do I get it out?

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Another problem you may see with this (I just fixed it) is a short in the yellow wire. Connected to the right side of the lower burner element. Here are my step by step instructions to fix on JBP78W-Y5:

1. Go ahead and pull the stove out, turn it off. Great chance to clean around it.
2. Undo the screws inside holding the burner in place.
3. Remove the two metal covers on the back.
4. You now have easy access to the terminals on the back of the burner element. Those things slide off, but it may take some doing if they are corroded.
5. The yellow wire connects to the control board at the top. We needed to pry this away from the board GENTLY with a flathead screwdriver.
6. Cut off the burnt end, and put a new AMP Female Disconnect on for 16 gauge wiring. You'll need wire regular strippers/crimpers, and I also needed a razor to cut the rubber. Must be a special coating because my stippers wouldn't touch it.
7. Take that burner out and sand off any corrosion off the leads.
8. Put the burner back in place and tighten it up.
9. Put the two leads back on the burner the way they were and the yellow one on the controller.
10. Plug it in and check if the element will heat up.
11. Works? Great. Turn it off, put the covers back on and put it back in place. All done.



Posted on Jun 13, 2010

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Hi,
just lift the loop part and then pull out, away from the two end parts...the element will just slide out...it may take some force to get it to release...you may have to hold onto the plug end and pul it apart one terminal at a time...

heatman101

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

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I replaced the bake element but it will not heat


Have you checked the oven fuse, there should be one on the stove. To check the element power, remove the element from the back where its attached to the stove Remove the element from the wires (Skip this step if you are absolutely sure the element is not working). Attach your meter clips to the 2 wires (meter set set to at least 250Vac), place a piece of cardboard under the screws and meter clips to isolate them from touching any metal parts of the oven. Turn the meter on, set the oven thermostat to 350, you should have at least 220Vac, if you do the power is fine. Test element for continuity, and for a possible short.

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The location of the oven probe can vary on different models as well. It will be mounted on the back or side of the oven wall (usually in the upper right or upper left corner). If you suspect you have a bad oven probe, a resistance check can be performed to determine if the probe is good. To accomplish this, unplug the range and remove the back panel. There are still dangerous voltages present even when the oven is not on. There will be two heat insulated wires coming from the oven probe behind the oven. Disconnect the wires and perform a resistance reading across both wires at room temperature. If the probe is good, it should read around 1100-1200 ohms*. If the reading is too low (shorted) or too high (open), replace it. However, I would take a good look at the interconnecting wiring FIRST. If you have a connector plug on the oven probe, often the plug pins will oxidize and not make good contact. This gives false readings and can lead to erroneous error codes. Some manufacturers recommend cutting the connector plug off completely and hardwiring the leads together by using heat resistant ceramic wire lugs. This provides a more permanent and reliable connection. The lugs can be purchased at most hardware stores. A new oven probe roughly costs about $35 - $45 and can be found on line at several appliance parts websites. Higher end model prices may be more.

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We had the same problem with ours. This is likely caused by one of two things: The element could be bad, or the element controller could be bad. I hope this helps...

1. Get a screwdriver and multimeter.

2. Slide out the stove and unplug it.

3. Open the oven door and look along the front edge up under the cooking deck. You will see several screws. Remove them.

4. Pry up the top cooking deck, the deck is hinged on the back side of the stove.

5. Lift up the front end of deck and get something to prop it up with.

6. The heating elements are are mounted to sheet metal strips, which are attached to the bottom of the cooking deck with screws.

7. Plug the stove back in and set the bad element to high heat.
NOTE: THE EXPOSED WIRING UNDER THE DECK COULD BE ENERGIZED TO 220V, ENOUGH TO KILL IF TOUCHED! USE EXTREME CAUTION. NO CHILDREN, PETS OR CURIOUS ONLOOKERS NEED TO BE AROUND WHILE DOING THIS. ALSO, YOU DO NOT NEED TO BE DOING THIS IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.

8. Take the multimeter probes and check the voltage going to the element. If the voltage is 220V, then the element is bad. If no voltage or very low voltage, then the controller is bad.

9. Unplug the stove.

10. If the controller is bad, then remove back cover from control panel. Remove controller and replace it.

11. If burner is bad, unplug burner and remove it...you will need to remove sheet metal strip that the burners are mounted on from deck before removing burner from the strip. NOTE: The burners are delicate, be careful.

11.a Mark the metal mounting strip where the burner tabs attach to it with a marker before removing burner because there are several locations on the strip where different burner sizes could be mounted.

12. The replacement burner is expensive. After careful inspection, I found the burner to be bad on ours, and the cause was a broken weld between the burner element foil where it is tack welded to the wire tab at the side of the burner. Looking at the quality of the welds, I would not be surprised if this is a common problem. One could take a piece of steel, say a paper clip or similar, and use a pair of needle nose pliers and fashion a small clip using the needle nose pliers to compress the break in the element foil back together. Otherwise, replace the element. I opted to repair the element and save the money.

13. Reinstall the element and plug the element in. Note, the element can be installed in several locations on the sheet metal mounting strip. Make sure to install back in the original locations that you marked with a marker. Carefully reinstall the mounting strip to the deck. Screw deck back down.

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We had the same problem with ours. This is likely caused by one of two things: The element could be bad, or the element controller could be bad. I hope this helps...

1. Get a screwdriver and multimeter.

2. Slide out the stove and unplug it.

3. Open the oven door and look along the front edge up under the cooking deck. You will see several screws. Remove them.

4. Pry up the top cooking deck, the deck is hinged on the back side of the stove.

5. Lift up the front end of deck and get something to prop it up with.

6. The heating elements are are mounted to sheet metal strips, which are attached to the bottom of the cooking deck with screws.

7. Plug the stove back in and set the bad element to high heat.
NOTE: THE EXPOSED WIRING UNDER THE DECK COULD BE ENERGIZED TO 220V, ENOUGH TO KILL IF TOUCHED! USE EXTREME CAUTION. NO CHILDREN, PETS OR CURIOUS ONLOOKERS NEED TO BE AROUND WHILE DOING THIS. ALSO, YOU DO NOT NEED TO BE DOING THIS IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.

8. Take the multimeter probes and check the voltage going to the element. If the voltage is 220V, then the element is bad. If no voltage or very low voltage, then the controller is bad.

9. Unplug the stove.

10. If the controller is bad, then remove back cover from control panel. Remove controller and replace it.

11. If burner is bad, unplug burner and remove it...you will need to remove sheet metal strip that the burners are mounted on from deck before removing burner from the strip. NOTE: The burners are delicate, be careful.

11.a Mark the metal mounting strip where the burner tabs attach to it with a marker before removing burner because there are several locations on the strip where different burner sizes could be mounted.

12. The replacement burner is expensive. After careful inspection, I found the burner to be bad on ours, and the cause was a broken weld between the burner element foil where it is tack welded to the wire tab at the side of the burner. Looking at the quality of the welds, I would not be surprised if this is a common problem. One could take a piece of steel, say a paper clip or similar, and use a pair of needle nose pliers and fashion a small clip using the needle nose pliers to compress the break in the element foil back together. Otherwise, replace the element. I opted to repair the element and save the money.

13. Reinstall the element and plug the element in. Note, the element can be installed in several locations on the sheet metal mounting strip. Make sure to install back in the original locations that you marked with a marker. Carefully reinstall the mounting strip to the deck. Screw deck back down.

14. Plug stove back in.

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