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I have a Yamaha L200txrr and get it to start. New battery cables, batteries charged, new ignition switch. Have power to lights but none to ignition key. Gauges wired to key. what could be wrong?

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  • alabiste29 Apr 26, 2010

    I have a Yamaha L200txrr and get it to start. New battery cables, batteries charged, new ignition switch. Have power to lights but none to ignition key. Gauges wired to key. what could be wrong?\r\n
    Very difficult to get it wrong, there is a harness and four colored calbe. Yellow, red, black, and green.

  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

    pos cable hooked up to negative post on battery

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Sounds like the switch didn't get wired correctly

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

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1 Answer

Bad ignition switch


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
5. Faulty starter button/switch.
6. Faulty jiffy stand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
7. Security alarm needs a reset.
8. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
9. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
10. Electric starter shaft pinion gear is not engaging or over-running starter clutch slipping.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=category&cat_id=002007
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1 Answer

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
9. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
10. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
11. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/104-04-06-r1-mechanical-help/323828-battery-charged-bike-still-wont-start.html
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/57-garage-mechanical-help/162715-will-not-start-good-battery-no-clicking-but-no-turn-over.html
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1 Answer

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Hi, Brian and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
9. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
10. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
11. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/102-00-01-r1-mechanical-help/228208-bike-not-starting-no-power-w-new-battery.html
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/46-general-discussions/143936-i-need-electrical-help-bike-wont-start-new-battery.html
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1 Answer

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Do you hear a clicking sound???NO ?? Do you have the speed ?turning handles in the extrem OUT position? Is the ground cable connected to the engine block?? Is the Red cable connected to the + Positive post on the battery?? Is the BLACK cable connected to the - Negetive post on the battery?? Why did you need to replace the fuse? Is the battery charged??

If none of the above corrects the problem replace the ignition switch

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1 Answer

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Hi, Madelene before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter have failed or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
14. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

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Hi, Cb350four before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter have failed or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
14. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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