Question about Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: neptune washer
I have a neighbor with a similar problem. The display shows 8 minutes remaining (quick mode/short wash) but the washer will not go to the spin cycle. The display goes back and forth from 8 to 7 and back to 8 mins remaining. The clothes are very wet but there is no water in the drum. The towel is dripping wet.
Posted on Sep 03, 2008
I have a maytag too and this is a easy one and you will be so relieved when you get this done!! and your wife is going to love you toooo !! just unplug the machine 1ST then go to the back uncscrew the back panel right at the bottom of the machine is a pump its got a hose from the tub into the pump and then it leaves the pump into another hose to which leaves your home.... you can unbolt this.. take the hoses loose on both ends . Next take that the drain and hoses and wash them out / I found only a piece of paper clip around the little propeller of course i had to replace the pump but really its not that expensive. I got mine on line ebay.... like $ 20.00 but if you are lucky then you can clean that good. I even went as far as taking it apart a total of 10 minutes tops, just to find out what could be letting this not spin.... maybe yours wont be so tramatic but if it is be relieved when you know it was this simple to fix !!! good luck to you and yours.
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
SOURCE: will drain but wont spin
I just had exactly the same problem. It turns out that the washer thought it was "continuously out of balance" because the inertial unbalance switch was not working properly. The way I fixed it was:
1. I followed the instructions to disassemble the Neptune washer found here: http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page323.htm and then in the control panel on top I found actually a very useful document stored in the control panel itself. It is called "Schematic Mini-manual LED Washer" and it contains a set of schematics for the electrical system and an explanation on how to run various diagnostics on the washer. This was incredibly helpful.
2. I checked the diagnostic code using the following procedure:
a. Plug the washer in for power.
b. Put the washer into "Service Mode" by holding the "Delicates" and "Heavy soil" keys simultaneously for 3 or more seconds. My washer showed a "00" on the screen when it was in Service Mode.
c. Pushed "Presoak" to put it in diagnostic code mode.
d. Pushed the down arrow key to read out the last diagnostic code. In my case the most recent diagnostic code was a "05", which the mini-manual says means "Continuous unbalanced circuit". In fact the mini-manual also says to "Check for: Faulty unbalance switches, Loose wire connections, Bad control board".
e. To find out how many cycles ago this happened, you can push the "Cotton/sturdy" button and it will tell you how many cycles ago this happened. I can't remember the response of my washer, but it either showed a "00" or "01".
To double check the diagnostic code, I
a. Cleared the list of diagnostic codes by holding the "Heavy soil" and "Presoak" buttons for 3 seconds while in the "Diagnostic code" mode;
b. Put the washer door back on and screwed it in without putting the entire front back on the washer.
c. Pushed the "off" button or unplug the washer and plug it back in to get it out of "Service mode".
c. Ran just the spin cycle, where it counted down to 7 and then was perfectly silent and then displayed a "00" without really trying to spin.
Double checking the diagnostic code probably wasnt' really needed, but I thought I would try it just to make sure. I did receive the "05" diagnostic code again.
3. With the washer unplugged again, I did the following to check that the switches were the problem, I checked the resistance of the circuit that has the following three switches in it: the inertial unbalance switch, the low tub displacement switch, and the upper tub displacement switch. If the circuit has effectively "0" Ohms of resistance, the switches are good. If you effectively have "infinite" resistance, then one of the switches is bad.
The mini-manual shows you where the switches are physically on the washer. The easiest way to check this is to find a connector that connects the three switches to the control panel. I found this by lifting the top panel of the washer up all of the way so I could access the top of the washer's tub. Based on the schematic from the mini-manual, the in-line connector has four wires. One side you will find a red wire with the number "23" on it and an orange wire with the number "40" on it. The other half of the connector has two blue wires connected to it, one with the number "23" on it and one with the number "40" on it. In my washer, this connector was placed on top of the washer toward the back.
To test to see if one of the switches is not working:
a. Disconnect the inline connector described above.
b. Test the resistance between the two terminals on the side of the connector having the two blue wires. I found that when I did this I had infinite resistance, so want of the switches was stuck open, indicating the "unbalanced " condition.
To find which switch was at fault, I disconnected each switch from the circuit and tested each one individually. The one that was easiest to get to was the lower tub displacement switch, which is in the front on the bottom of the washer's tub. It worked fine (0 Ohms resistance normally and infinite resistance when you push the button). The next I tried was the inertial unbalance switch, which is placed on the top, right, front of the tub just underneath the block of concrete that is mounted on the tub. For convenience, I removed the concrete block so I could easily access and remove the switch.
This was the switch with the problem (it was effectively stuck open or infinite resistance). It seems to have some rod of metal in it that moves back and forth with the washers motion, so I just shook it vigorously and you could hear the rod of metal move back and forth. This seemed to free up the switch mechanism and the switch functioned again (showed "0" ohms when it was held in about the same position as it would be on the washer). I put the switch back in place and checked the connector with the blue wires leading to all three switches as before. This time I received effectively "0" Ohms, meaning that the problem was fixed.
4. At this point, I put everything back together again (concrete block, reconnected the in-line connector to the switches, and reversed the procedure found in http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page323.htm ).
Once everything was back together again, I tested just a "spin" cycle and everything worked. You could also test this before putting things back together (probably a good idea) by temporarily putting the door on properly and trying a "spin" cycle.
Another thing to note, you could actually check the diagnostic codes and run several of the tests without taking the entire washer apart. Basically, all you need to do is get the mini-manual out of the control panel (I there are 6 screws total I took off) and run the tests before opening the rest of the washer.
In the end, it might be good to clean or lubricate the inertial unbalance switch or replace it since it will probably stick again. Unfortunately, I am not sure how it is built, so I am not sure what the best way to clean or lubricate it is. Just shaking it for the moment did the trick.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 22, 2009
SOURCE: im having trouble with my
Please see the following Whirlpool / Maytag service manual for Neptune washers.
On page 3-1 the manual explains that if the washer shuts off during the spin cycle, the problem points to a weak spring in the door lock mechanism.
"Shuts OFF In The Middle Of The Spin Cycle:
During the spin cycle, the machine control
monitors the door lock mechanism to ensure
the door is locked. This is done through the
door lock enable switch. During "lock mode,"
the shaft of the door lock mechanism is
pressed forward by the door lock wax motor,
and the shaft presses in the button of the door
lock enable switch. If the machine control
board sees the switch OPEN during the spin
cycle, the machine control board will automatically
shut the washer OFF. This is caused
by a weak spring in the door lock wax motor.
Replace the complete door lock mechanism.
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
I’m an Owner like you I own the FAV6800AW and have helped many folks on this and other forums with this issue.
You are experiencing a classic malfunction of the One-Way Roller clutch bearings in the Clutch Pulley assembly. It sounds like you are in the early stages of the issue. I have put together a step by step maintenance process to clean up and re-lube the One-Way Roller clutches in the Clutch Pulley assembly see this post Clutch Fix Post for what’s involved. Look on the right top back of your Console. If you can give me the first two numbers of your serial number i.e. 10, 11,12, tru 17. That will let me know if your machine will use an Upper One-Way Roller clutch bearing ring. Mechanical skill sets to perform Clutch maintenance or replacement are basic, anyone can do this it’s just a tight work area. Your option is to DIY or call in a repair service. I would ballpark the repair cost at around $300 if they know what is wrong and how to fix. DIY the fix it and you may need a a can of WD-40 and Slick 59 One Lube cost around $10 if the One-Way Roller just need to be cleaned up and re-lubed. If the Clutch pulley needs to be replaced I will show you a site where you can purchase for around $60 delivered to the house.
See this most recent post of a forum member who is back in service with my process.
Standing by if I can help….Rich aka dh1200s
Posted on Dec 14, 2009
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