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If some or all of the safety switches tripped when my blower motor failed, how/where do you reset them?

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If you are talking about overheat switches, some reset automatically when they cool down, some have a little red button to push and some must be replaced. It depends on what type you have. Electric heat strips have a fusible link close to them that must be replaced. You will have to look around the area where heat is produced to find the switches. Hope this helps some.

Posted on Apr 24, 2010


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Where would the limit switch be located at on the goodman gds80603

The main limit is on the main wall above your burners. It will auto reset .There are also roll out switch's that have to be manually reset that are in the burner section. Just push the button on the roll out switch's.

Jan 25, 2018 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

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My Bonaire evap cooler keeps tripping the fuse when I turn it on

there is an electrical short in the unit that is causing the fuse / breaker to trip
could be insulation, moisture in a junction connection or failing motor
Call in an accredited electrician to find / fix the fault

Mar 12, 2016 | Dryers

1 Answer

Blower motor does not shut off after burner goes off

High temperature limit may have tripped. It should reset when cooled but may have failed and will not reset. You could also have a manual reset limit safety which needs to be reset.

Sep 16, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Intertherm model# FEH-015HA It is no longer blowing heat

High limit safety device is probably tripped, it should reset automatically, also check other safety's for tripped condition, they look like small round device located in a variety locations through out the unit with two wires to each one, some have small push button resets located in the burner compartment area. If all the safety's are reset and check out OK the main control board may need replaced. One of the most common causes of high limit safety device trip is lack of air flow, Dirty filters, evaporator coils, malfunctioning blowers, closed supply air registers etc.
Note: High limit safety switches also go bad after being tripped to many times.

Nov 28, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Pilot light is on,thermostat set to very hot, but exhaust fan is constantly running

Your blower/ fan switch is open. This is a safety switch that will open if the unit get to hot usually around 220 deg. The switch is located near your indoor blower and has a manual reset. You will need to get this serviced as it is a safety feature on your unit and your heat will not turn on while it is tripped. A cracked heat exchanger could be the cause of the trip but usually its just a failed switch that needs replaced.

Feb 26, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

The blower on my Dayton furnace runs but there is no flame/ignition. Just blows unheated air. It continues to run regardless of whether the thermostat is calling for heat or not. Anyone have any ideas?

When the blower motor run all the time, that mean you have a safety limit tripped. One of the limit is located on top of the burner, to reset that all you have to do is press down on a little tap that sticking up in the middle of the switch. The second switch is located at the flute pipe, to reset the switch is the same procedure. The third limit switch is located on the heat exchanger box itself, this one cannot be reset, you will need an ohm meter to check for contunuity. Set meter to ohm function, if the meter read nothing then the switch is bad. Good luck.

Feb 02, 2011 | Dayton Gas Furnace Heater

1 Answer

Coleman home heater stops working fault code "limit switch open"

How do you test a pressure switch and other limit controls?
This is for people who are experienced with electrical equipment and the use of a Volt Ohm meter. *Please never by pass a pressure switch or limit control. The pressure switch and limit switches are there for your safety. You would test by setting your volt meter to "Volts AC" and test the rollout switch by placing one meter probe on one terminal of the rollout switch and your other meter probe to a good ground. Have the red probe touching the top terminal of the rollout switch and the black probe touching a ground (body) of the furnace. You should be getting 25.85 volts which means the rollout is good on the top terminal. I would next test the bottom terminal of the rollout by touching the red meter probe to the bottom terminal on the rollout switch and the black terminal to ground. If I get 25.85 volts on the bottom terminal the rollout is good. If I do not get any voltage on the bottom terminal then the rollout has tripped and can be reset (if equipped) by pressing in on the little button or replaced. If your rollout switch is tripped you probably have a stopped up heat exchanger or a leaking heat exchanger. I would recommend calling in a service technician to find out why the rollout switch tripped. If you have an open limit control either the furnace has over heated or the limit has gone bad. Problems that would make a limit open up would be dirty filters, dirty evaporator coil causing a restriction in the air flow or a slow blower motor (check the capacitor on the blower motor to make sure it is good). A weak blower motor capacitor will cause the blower to run slow and eventually fail. Pressure switches, and limit switches can be tested with a meter in the same manner. With the furnace calling for heat you can test each of the terminals on the pressure switch to ground to make sure the pressure switch is closed. You should be getting between 24 to 28 volts from each terminal to ground if the pressure switch is closed. If the pressure switch is open you either have a stopped up vent, drain line (if you have a condensing furnace) or bad pressure switch.

Nov 27, 2010 | Coleman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a dyno glo rmc-fa100dlx forced air heater. It will light and work for a few minutes, up to about 5, then it will stop heating and the fan will keep blowing. any ideas? thanks!

If the unit comes on and runs but then shuts down, that sounds like an indication of a high limit trip.

Most, if not all, furnaces have high limit switches that keep a constant check on the temp inside the furnace or air handler. On most systems, once this high limit switch has been made (got to hot), the limit switch breaks control voltage to the heating device (strips, gas, fuel, etc.etc..). The blower motor continues to run until the high limit has dropped in temp and reset itself.

On some models, the high limit is a manual reset, meaning you need to reset the switch yourself or shut the unit off and then back on to reset it.

Check all filters and replace as necessary. Check the coils and fan blades for dirt build-up and cleanliness. Check motor belt (if applicable). If all these fail to solve the problem, then your issue either lies within the blower motor itself not moving enough air for proper heat transfer. Or the high limit switch itself is failing.

Jan 09, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer


be sure the fan setting on the stat is set for auto, not on. in this mode the fan should only run when there is a call for cool or heat.if the fan continues to run check at the control board to see if you are getting 24 volts low voltage between green and common. if you are then the stat is bad. if youaren't then your electric control board is possibly bad. a lot of gas furnaces fall into a failsafe mode when a sensor or function fails and the blowers stay on 24 7. you may well have several problems from what you are saying. if you turn everthing off and start a new cycle for heat the first thing that should fire up is the induced draft motor , then the ignotor, then the gas valve. you can check each item with a meter , generally 120 volts to the induced draft motor, then 120 volts to the ignitior, the 24 volts to the gas valve. then ignition and 120 volts to the motor. most furnaces have a heat terminal and a cool terminal on the board. common to heat should get 120 volts on a call for heat after the sequence of operationb has taken place. 120 volts should be sent to cool terminal on a call for cool. a continueous blower is a sign of a failed safety. perhaps the motor failed and the safety opened and the motor was replaced but the safety never reset?. look at all the little micro temp sensors around the burner. they are like little breakers and need to be pushed in to reset . usually like a little stem that pops out from a metal or plastic dic. some are size of a quarter, some the size of a dime.

Oct 29, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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