Question about Maytag Refrigerators

2 Answers

Model MTB2456GE; 9 YRS OLD; NEW COMPRESSOR 3 YEARS OLD; yesterday refrigerator moved for new floor; now won't get cold (freezer down to about 38, refrigerator a lot higher than that

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  • ekalin Apr 24, 2010

    to your solutions:



    power on



    fan working



    compressor seems to be going



    other: there is a little black cover on left side of compressor; was off; sort of put it back (tight in there); a lot of ice forms around the copper tubes near compressor

  • ekalin Apr 24, 2010

    Did you get my reply? I don't know where to see your answers.



    to repeat: all your suggestions were not the ans. fan, compressor working;



    box on left of compressor loose; tried to reattach (hard to work there)



    much ice forms on copper tubing near compressor

  • ekalin Apr 24, 2010

    there are some beads of frost building up where you said in back of freezer;



    I can't tell if freezer fan is working; I almost don't think so. Do you have to get into the back area behind the projecting panel to see it?

  • ekalin Apr 24, 2010

    ok, i now see that the fan is not working. it's hard to get the panel all the way forward because of the wires to the light on the left top. the fan "housing" is not fixed, but sort of sitting there, but I can see that the blades, which are black, are not turning. Would it start turning as soon as unit is plugged in?


    Any suggestions? (according to consumer reports, maytag ref.'s are very repair prone--should we be thinking seriously of replacement?)--but first, any next steps?

  • ekalin Apr 24, 2010

    I lost a comment I started to write; thanks for price info.



    I got freeker back loose; see the wires plugged into fan unit; tried to pry them free; couldn't. In any case, fan is attached in such a way center protrusion has to comne loose from back--can't figure it out; long and short of it--don't want to invest 100 in a thing that might not work if I would succeed in putting it ann--involve a repair man and we're beyond that. so. it's off to the store for a new one. thanks for your help

  • ekalin Apr 27, 2010

    thanks for the suggestions:



    Tried tthe tapping Sat night; no improvement;



    Isn't the fact that the fan in the back of the freezer compartment is not working a logical solution to the problem? We're inclined not to spend the extra money for parts and repair on a frig, since we've spent so much on it already.(including new compressor).

  • ekalin Apr 27, 2010

    thanks; with fear and trepidation I'm going to try to fix it; I have the evaperator fan motor ready to come off;



    questions:



    to test current all I have is a guzmo with a lite and a yellow and red wire. Will that do anything you want me to try and how? if that won't do the trick, if I bring the old evaperator fan motor to the parts store (which does have the part), can they? will they test this easily with something they have?



    How do I know the problem is not a thermostat going to this motor?



    Help! and thanks,



    Everett







    If

  • ekalin Apr 28, 2010

    as I told you in my last communication, I bought and installed a new evaperator motor and the refrigerator now works--all thanks to you and Phil. The only problem now is that the fan makes a loud whirring noise when it runs. Any suggestions?

  • ekalin Apr 28, 2010

    let me be sure I understand you. the evaporator fan is now blowing air into the freezer compartment through the hole directly in front of it. fan OK or backwards?

  • ekalin Apr 29, 2010

    Thank you for the information about having the fan blowing in the right direction. That made me glad. And, finally, I solved the fan noise issue. I had not sufficienty tightened one of the screws on the back panel, and that was causing the center part to rattle.



    So, problem completely solved thanks to you, Phil and Kelly. You were great working with an 80 year old novice.



    Over and out.

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  • Maytag Master
  • 3,740 Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

I have to ask this question. In the process of moving the unit did you lie the refrigerator down horizontally?

I noted that it is a 9 year old unit with a 3 year old compressor. (i.e the system has been open at least once)

Now with all of those things taken into consideration... I suspect that the capillary tube that exits the freon drier may have a tiny bit of debris in the very end of the tube from when the compressor was changed out.

Here is what you can do to attempt to clear the debris:

1. Unplug the unit and wait until the system equalizes. (At least 20 mins)

2. Use the handle of a large screw driver and literally hit / strike the drier close to where the capillary tube mates with the drier but DO NOT strike the capillary tube itself. Do this repeatedly about 10 times. Do not hit is so hard yo9u dent the drier assy.

3. Then plug the unit back in and test the temps in about 2 hours.

FYI I have the 21.7 Cu ft maytag that is nearly the same age and had to have new compressor at the 6 year mark. (1/4 hp Embraco)

If you follow this link...

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=48450 this is your refrigerator.

The drier assy I am speaking of is the copper piece on the bottom of this picture:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4008642

You have a pretty good chance of getting your unit back to normal again by following the directions above. (Well 65% Ok - 35 % chance no joy)

If it does not return to normal then sadly the freon / R134 system will probably have to be purged with nitrogen to remove the debris and then reserviced.

Give it a good effort and don't be afraid to try the tapping / whacking the drier assy more than once. Just make sure you let the system stabilize of the internal freon pressure will press the debris against the capiliary tube end and all of your tapping efforts will fail.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

  • 4 more comments 
  • Kelly
    Kelly Apr 25, 2010

    This comment you made in one of your responses not to me :

    much ice forms on copper tubing near compressor

    pretty much confirms my suspicion of a partially blocked capillary tube.

    You can do what you wish but... I am pretty sure if you follow my directions in my original response, you may just get your unit going again.

    The evaporator fan will not always run... it is controlled by a thermostat (cold control) If the fresh food compartment is cold enough the fan will be off. (That one has tripped me up several times over the years!)

    Wish ya the best.

    Kelly



  • Kelly
    Kelly Apr 27, 2010

    If the fan is not working at all that for sure is a problem. That fan is controlled by the temp control in the fresh food compartment. Wuth the unit unplugged and one wire disconnected from the fan (or the quick disconnect) you should be able to read resistance across the stator coil of the fan motor. If you read resistance you can make a test cord out of an old extention cord and power the fan. If the fan turns with a test cord you can just bet that it is not getting power.



    If you look at this schematic starting at the top (left wire where is says line cord)



    http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partse...



    Power comes from the cord through the temp control and on to the fan via the blue wire and exdits the fan via the orange wire.



    If the compressor is running then the temp control is working because it has the same power source as the fan via the temp control. That would lead us to the problem being with the evaporator fan motor or wiring.



    The evaporator fan motor is here: (Item 7)



    http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partse...



    Close up view below



    http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_d...



    Your call as to what to do. If it were mine knowing the compressor only had 3 years since installation..... and the rest of the unit was in good shape I would most likely change the evaporator fan motor. If you do change the motor... what you see in the picture is what you get. the fan blade wil have to moved to the new motor.



    If the fan motor is hard to turn you can lubricate the bearings with either a synthetic automotive motor oil or...an oil called "Zoom Spout" that is a paraffin based oil. DO NOT use regular oil or 3 N 1 Oil. If you did it will work for a month or so and then lock up.



    Do the run test by applying power to the blue and orange wire terminals of the motor ONLY with the connector removed. The third wire is a ground.



    I wish you the best. I have pretty much passed as much as I can to try and help you. I do know the price of new refrigerator has a tendancy to give people "sticker shock."



    Thanks for using FixYa.



    Kelly

  • Kelly
    Kelly Apr 27, 2010

    Several.. not all parts supply stores can check your fan. It really depends on if that parts source also does in home appliance repair.



    That light tester you have will not do the trick. You would need an ohm meter to take resistance readings of the stator winding and would also have to make a test cord for a powered test.



    I rechecked the schematic for your refrigerator. If the compressor is running the evaporator fan is supposed to be running. The temp control powers both your compressor and fan motor at the same time.



    Worst case scenario..... if the parts source will not test your evaporator fan motor ask them if a new one is returnable. It is not an IC (chip type component) so they most likely will take a return. The return policies are different depending on the store policy.



    Kelly

  • Kelly
    Kelly Apr 28, 2010

    If it is whirring... and the air is blowing away from the air holes in the back panel it is normal. If the air is being drawn into the air holes in front of the fan... you have the fan blade on upside down.



    Kelly

  • Kelly
    Kelly Apr 28, 2010

    I just am glad that an evaporator fan is all that was causing your problem and that you did not have to go buy a new refrigerator. I appreciate your confidence in fixing vs replacing your refrigerator. I really hate to see people spend money they don't have to.



    Take care,



    Kelly

  • Kelly
    Kelly Apr 29, 2010

    Hi again. I was reviewing this repair and had one more thought about your whirring fan. The position of the fan blades should be placed so that the fan blades are centered in the bottom hole. i.e centered with the tapered bevel on the rear panel.



    Kelly

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  • Master
  • 949 Answers

Typical things to look for that cause a no cool after a move would be:

- the unit came unplugged or broke the power cord, if the lights are on inside the frig you are okay here

- something caught in the condenser fan. This fan is located down below in the back, it keeps the compressor and coils cool. If this fan is not running you can feel a lot of heat around the coils on the bottom and the compressor in back

if those are not hot check to see if the compressor is running, it should have a noticeable hum to it, and you should hear the fan running next to it.

Let me know about these and we can go further from there.

Posted on Apr 24, 2010

  • 8 more comments 
  • Philip Apr 24, 2010

    Thank you for the response.

    The cover you put back on contains the start devise for the compressor, it is good to have it on but since the compressor is running that is okay.

    The frost really concerns me, there is one of two things going on here. I need you to check one more thing before I know for sure,

    Open the freezer and look at the back wall to see if there is a frost build up from the bottom back wall up about 1/2 way to the top. Also let me know if you hear the fan inside the freezer running.

    If there is no excess buildup of frost back there and the fan is running inside the freezer then something has caused a sealed system problem, most likely damage to the tubing under the refrigerator or something restricting internal to the sealed system that is causing the freezing of the coils and the lack of cooling inside. If this is the case you need a service company that is proficient in sealed system repair to come out.


  • Philip Apr 24, 2010

    Sorry I was a bit slow to respond there, I was looking up some specifics on your model

  • Philip Apr 24, 2010

    You should be able to hear the fan if not, then that may be the problem, something may have fallen on it while moving the frig.

    Droplets of ice on the back are normal, heavy frost is not so I think we are okay there. You might have to take all the food and shelves out of the freezer and then remove the screws from the panel to see the fan.

    If it is not running I would suspect that something has fallen on it or it has come out of place.


  • Philip Apr 24, 2010

    This fan should be running when ever the compressor is running. If it is not that explains the frost down by the compressor.

    It should be powered by 120 volts going to it so be sure your hands are away if the power is on and the panel is off.

    If you have a volt meter to measure the power coming to the fan motor that would tell us for sure if the motor is bad. If not and there is nothing blocking it I would assume that it has failed. I will look up the part number and approx cost for one.

    As for the repair record, these do seem to fail at a fairly high rate at this age. When you get close to the life span (11 years on average) you can unfortunately expect a break down now and then with this.


  • Philip Apr 24, 2010

    The motor we are looking for is either a

    61005935 or a 61005339

    If the serial number begins with a 13 or greater than the motor is 61005935, if the serial number begins with 10 then 61005339 is the part number.

    The cost is around $95.00 for either one.


  • Philip Apr 27, 2010

    Yes I am very confident that the motor behind the back wall of the freezer is the root problem.

  • Philip Apr 28, 2010

    Here is a link to the service manual, copy and paste it into your browser to view.

    http://servicematters.com/maytag_library...

    Page 44 shows the test procedures, page 88 shows the wiring diagram that confirms that if when ever the compressor is running the fan should be on (no thermostat other than cooling) are in the direct circuit to it.

    l am not sure if the parts house can test it but it tells how to test it on page 44.

    Let me know if you have questions.


  • Philip Apr 28, 2010

    I am not sure about the noise you are hearing, unless the new motor is a little different in speed or something is rubbing against it when the panel got put back on. Noises like that are hard to diagnose over the computer with out being there.

    Sorry about that, not sure where to advise on this....

    Phil


  • Philip Apr 28, 2010

    Yes, you should feel air out of the louvers right by the fan motor

  • Philip Apr 29, 2010

    Thank you for using FixYa!

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