The warming drawer element stopped working. Any tips on checking if it's the element vs. the computer control panel that's causing the problem? When I inspect, there appears to be a relay that is next to the element inside the drawer - is that true and is that something that I should also check? This range has already had problems - one range element had to be replaced after it stopped working w/in the first 6 months and the touch screen computer control panel had to be replaced after the LED's started to fail w/in the first year. Both are expensive parts to buy.

Hello. The part number you need for the control panel/switch assembly is 74011491. The actual oven control unit is 74011494. The following list shows some(but not all) of the error codes you might encounter. I hope this helps you!
1c1c shorted key
1c2c membrane keyboard disconnected
1c4c board to board communication failure...." "
1c6c EEprom hardware fault..........................." "
1c7c control not calibrated............................... replace main board
1c8c eeprom crc error--user options..............." "
1c81 eeprom crc error--cook profile................." "
4d21 no cooling fan rotation
4d31 cooling fan on when de-energized
4d41 cooling fan overspeed
4d51 door switch circuit fault
In the service manual, there was no "warming drawer" error code listed in the code chart.

Hi friend, I appreciate your inquiry

Based off the information you have provided it sounds like a possible issue within the element in your warming drawer or the sensor. You may have to schedule a technician to come out and evaluate any damage a spillover may have caused with your drawer. I hope this has been helpful. -Matt

follow this steps and fix it. GOD BLESS YOU

Heating Element

If lights are flashing on the control panel, the heating element might have burned out. The heating element heats the water up to operating temperature. After a set amount of time if the temperature isn't reached a light on the control panel might start flashing. The heating element can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter.


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Heating Element Assembly

If lights are flashing on the control panel, the heating element assembly might have burned out. The heating element assembly heats the water up to operating temperature. After a set amount of time if the temperature isn't reached a light on the control panel might start flashing. The heating element assembly can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter.


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Check Fault Codes

If the display lights are flashing and there is an error code in the display window, check the wiring diagram and tech sheet in the dishwasher that will provide information on the fault.

Drain Pump

If lights are flashing on the control panel, the drain pump might not be working properly. For two-wire drain pump motors check them for continuity using an Ohm meter. If it's defective You'll need to replace it. Drain pumps are not repairable.


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Touchpad and Control Panel

If the lights are flashing on the display the entire touchpad and control panel assembly might be defective. If the display works but the dishwasher functions are all out of synch, or some of the buttons don't respond properly the entire touchpad and control panel might need to be replaced.


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Touchpad

If the display lights are flickering for no reason, the touchpad might need to be replaced. Sometimes when the touchpad is defective the display lights are flashing randomly.

Most likely a fault with the heater element. Check if the water is warm when it stops during a heavy wash cycle.

what is the make and model number of the range if you had sparks flying from under the door assure that the element has not burned out usually when the element does go bad it does cause an arc at the bottom of the unit also if your unit had a warming drawer there would also be an element located inside the warming drawer as well and this could also cause the sparks. also this can be caused by a piched wire also grounding to the frame as well you would need to unplug the machine and take the rear panel off the machine and then do a continuity test to the elements this would assure if your problem is with the elements or not If you have any further questions message me back and please remember when our chat has fully concluded to rank how this opinion has helped it allows me to continue to help others in similar situations in the future thanks again Rick

This is known as the CZT or Climate Zone Technology fan and if you direct wire it and it does not run, replace.
This is the cold zone fan which supplies cold air to the meat and crisper drawers.

Bake element Most times it is easy to see a failed oven element. Their will be a hole or a welded mark somewhere on the element where a piece of cheese fell on it and caused a hotspot. You can also check elements with a meter or simply apply some wall current to them using a cheater cord to see if it gets warm. If the element gets warm that means it will work and is not bad. If the element ain't coming on but you have checked it out, of course then that would be the thermostat. HEADS UP: When fooling with the stove always be sure the power is off. Pull out the bottom drawer and most of the time you can unplug the power cord without moving the stove. To make it easier to work on most stoves the oven door can be removed. I set the door at the broil position and gently ease up on the door, remove it, and set it to the side. As far as the oven thermostat goes, they are simple enough to replace but quite expensive. I suggest if you have an electronic oven control then that old extended warranty plan is a winner. Heads Up: One thing you want to remember about fancy electronic controls, never put the stove on self clean! The temperature will cause the delicate electronics to fail. I don't care what anyone says. That stove will get to 900 degrees and adversely affect those controls.

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When it stops and beeps can you tell me all lights that are on when you open the drawer cheers. also check to see if the water in the tub is hot if not you have a heating issue. either a faulty element or Mtr Controller module. try swapping the Mtr Controller module (computer board) from the top drawer to the bottom drawer and see if that moves the fault. cheers

Found that there is an electrical connection at the point the main electric enters the back of the stove. There is a connector for the element that was not connected. Now it works!

Hi!!! make sure that all hi- limit switches are working.If you can find the diagram look for hi--limit swith they might be bad..Also check the wires going to the control board to the element it might have gotten loose or if not you might have a bad board pc board.Good luck.