Hi i have a wr400 99model and have just done an oil filter n oil change then i started my bike it all seemed fine until five minutes of the bike running the header pipe started to glow red i drained the oil and repeated the process CAREFULLY and now wen i start the bike it heats up quickley n the coolant starts to boil ????????????????????? i let it cool down took the radiator cap of n started it the coolant seems to be flowing fine HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?

well it seem that u didnt change the oil and filter of gearbox it self... if u already have done above u have to check gearbox sensores

1.7 litres if you change it without the filter and around 1.9 when you change both oil and filter. run the engine for five minutes then turn off the bike and leave for a minute and a half. unscrew the dipstick, wipe it and put it back in without screwing it and check that its within the lines on the dipstick

Things you will need, Drain pan, 5 quarts oil, BMW oil filter, oil drain plug seal, can of brake cleaner, allen head wrench that fits your drain plug, a oil filter wrench for R- Bike filters, ratchet with a drive that fits the oil filter wrench, paper towels, latex gloves, funnel that fits into the oil fill plug hole. I also keep an old blanket around so I can lay on the ground. Warm the bike up for 5 mins then turn off. Get the bike on the center stand. Position your drain pan under the drain plug . I like to lay out everything im going to use on 4 or 5 paper towels . Remove the fill plug on the top of the left cylinder, set it on the paper towel to keep crud off it. Take your allen head wrench and loosen the drain plug , if you using an open pan to drain your oil , be prepared to fish out the drain plug, it will fall into the oil drain pan. Let the oil drain for 10 minutes. Take some brake clean and spray it all around the area of the oil filter to get rid of all the crud. All the dripping **** should flow into the drain pan if you bought one big enough. Buy drain pans that you can reseal when your done, put it in the car and take it to a recycling center. Put the oil filter wrench onto the ratchet. This oil filter wrench will slip into the filter slot under the engine. Just turn the ratchet untill the filter comes off. Should be clockwise. After the filter is removed, spray brake clean into the filter housing area to get rid off the **** and oil, wipe down with a paper towel and reach up into the filter housing to get all the ****, one final spray off brake clean should clean everthing out.
IF THERE IS NO MORE OIL COMING OUT OF THE DRAIN PLUG, put a new sealing ring on the drain plug and tighten up , snug not TIGHT.
Now before you put the new oil filter on , open up a quart of oil and fill the oil filter up about 90% with new oil, put a little oil on the rubber seal, put the the oil filter into your filter tool and insert the tool and filter up into the filter housing. Do this be hand so you will not strip the filter housing threads. The filter should go on very easy and you should be able to turn the filter at least 3-4 turns until its hand tight, Finish off with the ratchet, SNUG NOT TIGHT. Finish off with a little brake cleaning on the bottom of the engine housing to clean up any oil. Put the funnel in the fill hole and put in 3 quarts of oil. Read your owners manual for your oil capacity. There is a sight glass on the lower left side off the engine under the cylinder. Fill with oil until the oil level is in the middle of the sight glass. Put you fill cap back on. Turn you engine over a couple of times put dont let the bike run for more than 5 seconds, let the bike sit for 2-5 minutes to let the oil level settle, then check the oil level in the sight glass, it should be in the middle. if you dont see any oil in the sight glass after 2-5 minutes add a little oil at a time until the oil level in the sight glass is in the middle. Start the bike agian for 5-10 seconds , then check the oil level in the sight glass. You should be good to go. email me for any questions

fuel pump may be on its way out

when you see the velly of the bike, you could find big hole cap which is oil filter. Take it off and replace it. Next to the cap, there is a bolt same size as the cap bolt which is oil tank cap bolt. When you screw the bolt, the oil will plow out. Let it plow untill done. Put the bolt back when it empty. Right side of the bike and middle of the foot fade, you could find a refill cap. Replace oil untill the oil fill up enough. Back side of foot fade, There is a oil check. Between full and poor would be fine.

no, in my opinion there was no harm done to the engine. if the dipstick had oil on it when you checked it, then its fine. any time you change oil and filter, let the bike idle until its hot then shut it down and wait a couple minutes and then check oil level.. and add if necessary.

it could start without oil..... but the amount of damage you would likely do to it makes it very unwise. if all the oil leaked out there was oil in it when it was started before. if i'm not mistaken that case is aluminum. if you can find someone that does tig welding (i think it's tig for aluminum).... they could probably weld that crack without taking the motor apart..... just a thought.

please take a moment to rate this solution.. thanks

Check your vent tube to make sure it is clear. It is probably getting to hot because there is no ventilation to the outside. When you have the front off, check all the way from the lint filter to the outsid of the house.

it really sounds like you have water in the oil or some other contaminant (bike wasn't run on Castor oil?) You probably want to drain oil into a clean container and flush system before you do serious damage. Bike is geting hot enough to boil off water?

sounds like the throttle cables need to be looked over .( he get everything back to where it was before the lubing?)as one may be out of sync with the other. the oil change has NOTHING to do with the sputtering and surging ,stall .it would only apply if the clutch was slipping and that would make the bike rev with the car oil.