My freezer is getting cold but the fridge is not getting that cold what do i need to do? the motor is working

If your motor is running. please check your refrigerant gas level or if it is leaking.

Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 - Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan - Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper - Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils - Check to see that the condenser coils don't have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor - Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 - Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 - Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 - Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven't got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn't work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.
Take care in solving the problem....

the clicking sound is normal it sounds like valve operating or you may have the water pressure up to hgh for the unit. for your second problem is the fan operating inthe fridge this stops the cold air to transfer from the freezer, also check the operation of the damper this is the flap the controls the amount of air into the fridge this is uasualy controled by a by metalic thermostat or motor. thirdly which mostly common is the defrost heater is not working signs are frozer evaperator in freezer and air duct the checks are defrost timer, heater element terminatinion thermostat and someunits have thermofuses goodluck

In case the freezer not getting cold. maybe the tube is leaking .the freon gas scape. or your compessor is defective

That noise is typical when the compresor is trying to start but it doesn't , it could be the condensing fan motor that doesn't work and the compresor goes off on overload ; a common problem with this compresors is the relay (mounted at the side of the compresor behind a black plastic cover) goes bad , this you can replace is about $20 , and if still the compresor won't start you will need to put another one and this is an expensive job.

It has seperate cooling circuits as you describe the problem can be a leak of refrigerant in the freezer circuit.if there is no heating up in the freezer condensing coil.It has to be check for the leakage.

Yes, only part that gets could is in the Freezer. If block by ice (usually) this will not allow the cold air to go into the ref., if so, defrost problem. Check amount of ice on coils in back of Freezer. Should only be a thin frosting.

There is a duct between the freezer and refrigerator. Sometimes this duct blocks off with ice and won't allow airflow. Open your refrigerator door and check for air flow if there is none the duct needs to be defrosted. turn off freezer/ refrigerator and defrost.

Sounds like bad cold control. Replace it. I cannot see your repyl due to some tech issue w/ the site, so it may be a day or so before I can reply again. Please leave feedback for me if appropriate. Thanks

Three most common problems are bad evaporator fan motor, defrost problem, or damper motor.