Question about Karcher 2500 PSI Pressure Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
here`s the go ,good possibility that you didn`t turn the gas tap off at the last time you used it.If the needle isn`t seating properly the gas wii over flowinto the carburetterif the inlet valve is open ,fuel can ,if the macine is on uneven ground run back into bthe cylinder and over a period seep into the sump. I`ve only seen it once .I am assuming it is a GX140 motor, so dont tilt it back too far or the same thing will happen with the oil and the mufler eventually gets full and it will sm oke like a forrest fire for a month. why do you say it takes longer to warm up ?is it because you have to have abit of choke for longer ?if so it is a mixture problem .and no it doesn`t need a new spark plug.
Posted on Aug 18, 2009
I had the same thing. Had to use Lithium grease to get it to work properly. Must take the cheesy plastic thing with the silver top off first to get at it. Only lubed the large o-ring. Works like new.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
SOURCE: Low Pressure
I worked at a tool rental while attending college and had the opportunity to work on a variety of pressure washers, however, they were of the commercial type. Commercial washers are slightly different in that they usually have seperated components for easier service. Attached to the pump by fittings or rubber hose were the pressure regulator (which has the bypass unloader inside), chemical injector, pressure gauge as well as the hot water release safety all external to pump. Your pump has all these components in one case. By far the most troublesome component is the pressure regulator/unloader which when failing will result in low pressure because it will bypass water back into the intake as you suspect is happening to yours. Here are a few things to check. I believe that your pump is 2500 2.4 gpm. Test gpm water capacity by running pump normally with hose and proper tip attached. Spray water into bucket for one minute and verify that you are pumping 2.4 gallons of water (or what ever gpm your machine is rated). Measure the amount of water that your machine delivered. If it delivered proper gpm and pressure is low then problem could be worn or improper tip. The pressure is created at the tip and pressure will drop as the tip wears. As the unloader/bypass wears, water will bypass at a lower pressure. (Try lowering the pressure regulator all the way ) If water measures less than rated delivery than the machine is bypassing water due to worn regulator/bypass, checkvalves pitted, oring in front of checkvalve worn or cut or missing, or body of pump where checkvalve/oring seat is pitted allowing water to leak past valve. The cap that is removed to access checkvalve must presses against checkvalve with enough force to prevent water from leaking thru oring and body of pump. Examine checkvalves and orings with maginfy lens and look for pitting. Valves surface and orings must be very smooth and tight fitting to work properly. Body of pump where checkvalve oring snuggs against must be very smooth. Any surface where oring seats must be smooth. As water bypasses it cuts metal and orings just like a leaking faucet so look for cuts in metal and rubber. This info and my experience is better suited for larger pumps and higher pressure but maybe it will help. Good luck with your repair.
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
This really sounds like a carb problem, good to hear that you are taking the carb all the way off and soaking it, this is the best way to clean a carb. I don't think it would be the fuel pump, they either work or they don't. I would check the governer springs and linkages, if one of these is hung up on something it would cause the problems the you have identified. Also, when you re-install the carb make sure that you have all the gaskets installed, it is easy to forget one and that will cause the engine to **** air and make the whole engine run like ****.
Posted on Oct 21, 2010
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