Not cooling enough, compressor is running well, temperature is set at highest temp and temperature in empty refrigerator is 48 degrees. What can be the problem?

It's possible that the issue may be with the thermostat or the compressor. If the thermostat is not working properly, it may not be regulating the temperature correctly. Similarly, if the compressor is not working properly, it may not be able to cool the fridge down to the desired temperature. It's best to have a professional take a look and diagnose the issue. Another possible cause is the refrigerant levels, if the refrigerant is low this can cause the compressor not being able to cool the fridge properly and will need to be refilled by a professional.

There are a few potential reasons why your chiller may not be shutting down even when it reaches the set temperature:

1. Faulty temperature control: If the Ranco temperature control is faulty, it may not be sending the correct signal to shut off the compressor and fan. Try replacing the temperature control to see if this resolves the issue.
2. Incorrect wiring: Make sure that the compressor and fan motor are wired correctly through the Ranco temperature control. If the wiring is incorrect, the temperature control may not be able to properly control the chiller.
3. Dirty condenser coil: A dirty condenser coil can cause the chiller to run constantly as it struggles to cool the refrigerant. Check the condenser coil and clean it if necessary.
4. Low refrigerant charge: If the chiller is low on refrigerant, it may run constantly as it tries to maintain the set temperature. Have a technician check the refrigerant level and add more if necessary.
5. Faulty compressor: A faulty compressor may continue to run even when the set temperature is reached. Have a technician check the compressor to see if it needs to be repaired or replaced.

Your issue sounds like either a bad "pressure switch" or that the unit is low on "Freon." Either of these problems will cause the compressor to start and run shortly then compressor cuts off, then and repeats itself.

From your description It really does Not seem to be a "bad board in that unit" because the compressor is starting up, even though the compressor is not staying on long enough to cool said area.

Make sure the condenser fan is working and the condenser coils are clean. The temperatures are very hot but this could be because there is no air flowing through the condenser coils,

As a refrigerator, it should not go below about 34 degrees. If it is going down to 30, it may be freezing up on the coil. If you get a chance, do this: unplug the refrigerator and let it sit for 4 hours with the door open. If the coil is frozen it will defrost. You can feel the coils inside the box at the top back inside the unit. If you feel ice at any time it is an indication that it is getting too cold. Once the inside coils freeze over, the air can't flow through the coils and the unit will get warmer and warmer. When it is defrosted, set the thermostat just above the off setting. Let it run until the compressor shuts off. See what the temperature reads on a thermometer inside the cooler. If it is not cool enough move the thermostat one number colder and let it run an hour. Take your time, let it equalize before you change the thermostat. Also if the cooler is empty it is hard to set the thermostat because when you open the door all the cold air escapes and the temp will change rapidly. If it is full of cold food, opening the door won't change the temperature very quickly. Also check the radiator coils at the bottom of the cooler behind the grill. If it is clogged with dust or grease, the compressor may overheat and shut off prematurely.

first make sure the fridge has not frozen over if there is ice on the walls it will screw the system that determines how cold it is up. if this is the case empty the fridge unplug and use a hair dryer to carefully speed up the thawing process. usually this happens during warm and humid seasons.

if this is not the case then see below and you might need a professional appliance service to perform the below unless you are fairly skilled


The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control thermostat is not working properly, it may cause the refrigerant system to run longer than necessary. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cold. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.
The thermistor monitors the air temperature and sends the temperature reading to the control board. The control board then regulates power to the compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may run too frequently. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cool. To determine if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multimeter. The thermistor resistance should change in conjunction with the refrigerator temperature. If the thermistor resistance does not change, or the thermistor does not have continuity, replace the thermistor.

If you're handy with a soldering iron, it's possible to 'trick' the fridge into cooling down a few more degrees.

Long version:
If you open the door to the fridge, on the right wall near the bottom is a small plastic grate. You should be able to pull this straight out from the side wall. There is a temperature sensor attached to the back of the grate. Unplug the sensor. (The fridge will then give you a very annoying error beep and display "EE" on the readout. Pushing the °F-°C button stopped the beeping.) This sensor will change resistance with temperature. (The lower the temperature, the higher the resistance) I was reading a resistance of about 3700 ohms at 43°F and 2460 ohms at 68°F. Throw in a rough assumption that the response is linear and it works out to almost 50ohms/degree. In order to 'trick' the fridge into cooling down more, you need to drop the resistance. I was aiming for about 6 degrees cooler. Assuming the resistance response was linear, 6 degrees cooler would give me about 4000 ohms from the sensor. By jumpering a 50000 ohm resistor (yes, 50K ohm) in parallel with the sensor, I should get about 6 degrees cooler. I did the soldering, plugged the sensor back in, and ended up about 8 degrees cooler. Two days so far, everything appears good and the beer is cold.

Short version:
Put a 50K ohm resistor in parallel with the temperature sensor behind the grate on the inside right hand wall.

The temperature read out will be inaccurate forever after though. But then, I just want cold beer, my wife wants cold water, and the kids want to play with the cool blue light. I don't care what the number on the readout is.

Hi,
There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer

heatman101

Keep a thermometer handy. (adjust temperature control knob accordingly)
Periodically monitor temperatures inside your cooler. (adjust as necessary)
Keep the refrigerator door closed as much as possible to avoid temperature fluctuations

The temperature of the refrigerator compartment is
controlled by adjusting/setting the thermostat control
knob, located on the ceiling of the refrigerator
cabinet.
To start the refrigerator, and achieve maximum
cooling quickly;
• Turn the temperature control knob (using a coin
or screwdriver) clockwise to the furthest
(maximum) setting on the darker blue section of
the graduated control dial.
• Allow the refrigerator to run at this setting for 3~4
hours.
• When maximum cooling is achieved, turn back
the temperature control knob setting to the 2:00
o'clock position on the graduated blue control
dial.
• Correct cooling temperature is a key factor to
consider in storing and dispensing draught beer.
• Optimum temperature for serving draught beer is
between 34ºF ~ 38ºF.(1ºC ~ 3ºC)
• To maintain temperatures ranging between
34ºF ~ 38ºF.(1ºC ~ 3ºC) We recommend the
thermostat knob be positioned at the "2:00
o'clock" setting on the graduated blue control dial.
• To turn off the refrigerator, (no cooling) rotate the
control knob to the "0" position.

Solution Found! The problem is when the temperature surrounding the refrigerator in the garage falls to < 45 degrees, the thermostat regulating the refrigerator will not call for the compressor to kick in to provide cooling (it's temperature requirements are being met). Since there is no demand, the compressor will not cycle, which is how the freezer is kept cold, and the freezer eventually warms up to match the refrigerator temperature. Frigidaire makes a "Cold Kit" that I ordered and installed from RepairClinic.com for $22 (Item #: 1037646; Description: Garage kit). It's basically a strip heater that runs off the control power to warm the thermostat and causes the compressor to cycle once to twice a day to keep the freezer frozen. After installation, the refrigerator stays at 40-45 and the freezer stays around 0 degrees.