Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Jeannine, on this model there is one motor that turns both the evaporator and condensor fans. First you want to check to see if there is any obstruction preventing the fans from turning. There is also a dual capacitor that gives this motor a kick start. If this goes bad the motor will not run, just humm. Hopefully it is just your capacitor that has failed but it could be the motor itself. Part number for the capacitor is 16-05-00710-109. Part number for the motor is 50-11-t26p0-050. Usually a bad capacitor will show signs of leaking or bulging, but not always...Catriver..post back
Posted on Aug 02, 2006
SOURCE: refrigerator and freezer
Does the compressor click on and off every minute or so and is hot? That would likely be tripping on a thermal overload due to not being able to start (bad motor starter on the compressor). If the compressor is running normally and warm then you may have a froze up coil. Take the lower rear back sheetmetal cover off the inside freezer section and look at the coil. If it's frozen block of ice basically the defrost cycle is not working and the ice has blocked the air flow through the unit. (could be bad defrost heater, defrost timer or defrost t-stat). If the compressor is running normally and warm and you see no ice or even frost on the coils then you have a sealed system problem that usually means most if not all of the refrigerant has leaked out of the system (or a blockage/restriction in the system). This would be the worst case since it means a whole bunch of money to repair. Let us know what you find out and we can have a better idea on what to recommend.
Posted on Nov 24, 2006
Read, this model posted has a main board in back that controls the refer. Your problem sounds like the overload and relay on the compressor but you need to do a test to verify. On the main board in back there is a blue harness, 3 pronged, that is marked line, defr and comp. Lower left hand corner. You need to get a jumper wire with alligator clips and with the plug out, jump line to comp. Now plug it back in, this will send 120V directly to the compressor. See if it starts. If not and it does it clicking thing, chances are it's the overload and relay, or the compressor itself. You have five years warranty on the compresser. If it starts, it's the board it's the board giving you the problem. This of course is for the GSH model posted...Catriver..post back.
Posted on Feb 11, 2007
SOURCE: fan for amana fridge
Not sure of the description of the fault. If you are saying that the internal fan will not run but that you have put a power supply to it and it has run, it could be a number of possibilities... You described moving the cabinet. It is highly possible that a pipe or part of the refrigeration system has been damaged in the move and caused a loss of gas. If you remove the back panel to expose the evaporator (cold coil), and turn the system on, after 5 to 10 mins you should see a frost build up over the whole of the coil. If you dont then you probably have a leak. Result call a fridge guy. Leaks can vary in cost and is entirely dependent on where the leak is located and how long it takes to find it. If it does freeze the whole coil then you may well have a problem with the defrost heater or defrost thermostat. Both of which need to be intact in order to provide a neutral supply to the fan motor. You can (IF COMPETENT) check that you have resistance across both of these elements. If you have an open circuit on either then that is your problem. (PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE DEFROST THERMOSTAT HAS TO BE BELOW 0'C IN ORDER TO HAVE ZERO RESISTANCE ACROSS IT...I.E. COIL COLD). Hope this is of some help.
Posted on Sep 08, 2007
Ok the motherboard is malfunctioning. Ive observed this exact problem before. Replace the board and all will be normal again. If you keep lettig it click and click it may finally kill that relay that you descibed to me or even worse the compressor itself.
Posted on Dec 02, 2007
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Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor.
Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing.
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