Raising handle bars and suggestions for improving coasting capacity

The Kia K-2700 was named for its 2700cc diesel engine, which shows the kind of audience Kia was targeting with their light truck. Generally, the vehicle was intended for owner-operators rather than customers who went through fleet sales. These customers included tradesmen like plumbers, builders, and electricians, but the K-2700 also had broad enough appeal to attract a wide variety of customers.
The vehicle itself was 5.1 metres long and weighed 3.3 tonnes, with a cargo deck measuring 3.1 metres by 1.6 metres. Most importantly, the vehicle could handle a massive payload of over 1500kg, which is more than a tonne of gear. The Kia K-2700 also had a braked towing capacity of 1400kg and an unbraked capacity of 700kg.
In 2008, the Kia K-2700 was replaced by a new model called the Kia K-2900. This new vehicle improved on the K-2700 in nearly every way, including a cleaner and more powerful engine with greater power and torque, better average fuel consumption, and a bigger payload. Still, it owed a lot to the success of the Kia K-2700, which dominated the light truck segment during its production run.
Kia K-2700 Engine Specs and Performance The original 2002 Kia K-2700 featured some excellent engine performance. It had a 2.7L diesel engine with power of 57kW at 4000rpm and torque of 172Nm at 2400rpm. While this didn't position the Kia K-2700 as a leader in its class as far as performance, it was also less thirsty, with average fuel consumption of 11.6L/100km. It's well built to handle large loads, with only an occasional down shift to fourth gear required on long hills. Overall, it manoeuvres well.
Though not technically a K-2700, the Kia K-2900 is often described as another model of the same vehicle. It had several major improvements under the bonnet compared to its predecessor, including an engine with 92kW of power at 3800rpm and 245Nm of torque at 2000rpm. The engine saw improvements of 59 and 49 per cent over the previous engine's power and torque. The model also saw improved average fuel consumption of 10.2L/100km, which was a six per cent improvement.
Standard Equipment and Options for the Kia K-2700 The Kia K-2700 had a nice array of standard equipment, impressive enough that it almost seemed like something to be expected in a five-door hatch instead of a light truck. The equipment included remote central locking, power windows, AM/FM radio with single disc CD player, power steering, air conditioning, and a height adjustable steering wheel. It also featured a 3-stage headlight and two-stage external mirrors. Optional extras included rubber floor and dash mats, weather shields, polished alloy nudge bar, and a tow bar.
It also featured a cargo deck, which allowed for a heavy payload. One of the only noticeably absent features was airbags, of which the Kia K-2700 had none. Nonetheless, the overall build quality of the vehicle was impressive. From the mechanics of the torsion bar front suspension to the paint and panel fit, it generally seemed to run smoothly and reliably for years.

Right in the center of the handle bars you will find a nut ( usually allen key) that is in line with the tube going down/attached to the fork of the bicycle. Loosen this nut and unscrew it for about 5mm - don't remove it completely. Take a mallet and hit the nut firmly on its head to force it back the 5 mm unscrewed. It should release the tapered lock inside the tube and the handles can be adjusted. If it is still stuck, unscrew the nut more and repeat the process. After adjustment tighten the nut firmly, while holding the handles in position. It will lock again as it is getting tightened. Make sure it is secure by "clamping" the front wheel between your legs while trying to move the handles in any direction. Handle movement should not be possible when applying moderate to strong force. However, excessive force will result eventually in movement and or damage to the front wheel and is therefor not required.

Yes, raising a medicine ball over your chest is a great wayto improve your results because you are adding resistance. It is just important that you make sure theball isn't too heavy because it can do more harm than good.

Hi...

I would need more information regarding how big your vessel is (will you need a pilot?), whether the port is domestic or foreign (customs?), whether you are carrying cargo or not, how deep your draft is, etc.

A large commercial vessel should have the details handled by the shipping company's representative.

A small, private vessel will start by raising the harbormaster of the port or marina on the radio, identifying yourself & inquiring about berth availability. It can be an informal process, and the harbormaster can give you additional information about tides, currents, shoals, and other things not indicated on your chart. If the conditions are difficult (chop, wind, visibility), the harbormaster may help with providing hands to take your ropes when you dock.

If you can time your arrival for high slack water, you should. There may be snags, shifting shoals, or a recent sinking that doesn't show up on your chart. Additionally, you're better off crossing a bar when it's at its calmest... especially if water or weather conditions are tricky.

If you're planning on docking in a large metropolitan area with a lot of ship traffic, you may need to coordinate with the local marine traffic service.

Your best friends are a set of current charts, a current copy of the Coast Pilot, good up-to-the-minute weather info, and the Coast Guard (don't waste their time, but don't be afraid to use them! They're there to help!).

I hope this helps...

If this excessive swaying is due to worn suspension then those worn parts will be tie-rods, shock struts, anti roll bars and the rubber bushings holding the various parts of the suspension in place. General suspension overhaul would be required.
Now if its a normal feature of the vehicle you can improve the handling by fitting harder anti roll bars(sway bars), stiffer shocks, custom tie rods, better quality rubber bushes (polyurethane) and by lowering the suspension with shorter stiffer springs.
I suggest searching for an owners club for your vehicle where you should find some people who are doing the same thing and get advice from those who have been there before - --- You can ruin a cars handling and make it quite dangerous by changing things around, I suggest you search for suspension modification and do a quick 101 of the do's and dont's of suspension modification before you start swapping parts.

fox shox but they are pretty expensive

front tire is out of balace,or slack in air,or frontend is loose,or axle nut loose,or,just check your hole front end to see if anything has come loose.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Offhand, should be none. The resistor should not be upgraded unlike the STKs. Technically, the ohmage/resistance values should still be the same. If you change to a higher wattage, then, what is improved is the heating capacity, meaning it will be more tolerant to the heat but the resistance value should still be the same.

The STK upgrade is actually more to improved heat handling/transfer capacity of the STK ICs. The technically correct description is high power used in low capacity hence will not heat as much as the originally installed.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.

PUT THE FRONT WHEEL BETWEEN YOUR KNEES AND TWIST HANDLE BARS FROM SIDE TO SIDE THEN SIDE TO SIDE AND UP AT SAME TIME THIS PART OF THE BIKE CAN BECOME RUSTED AND STICKY INSIDE TRY SOME WD40 OR ANY SORT OF OIL TO TRY AND GET IT MOVING AND BE SURE TO RE TIGHTEN NUT BEFORE USE HOPE THIS IS HELPFUL GLENN......