Question about Refrigerators

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Gsl25jfxlb GE Fridge suddenly stopped working, lights on, no compressor noise, condenser fan not coming on. Any ideas? Possibly how to test if that fan works because the condenser was extremely dirty, lots of dust.

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  • Jonathan Crappel Apr 23, 2010

    I really think it may be the condenser fan, do you know how I could test this?

  • Jonathan Crappel Apr 26, 2010

    OK, so I finally figured this problem out, with help from SeaBreeze, much thanks to him. Turns out that for some reason this refrigerator turned itself off. The button that are by the ice dispenser are the ones I used to turn it back on. They are the temperature control buttons, I pressed them and voila! It came right on. We're not sure what caused it to shut off so, I am keeping an eye on it. Fingers crossed. Thanks SB.

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First, check to see if the light comes on or if there is any fan, motor, or other sound coming from the appliance? If so, the refrigerator isn't really completely stopped--go to the specific problem you are having. If not, try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting. If that doesn't work, read on.

Second, check to see if there is power getting to the refrigerator. To do that, plug a lamp or other device into the same outlet the refrigerator is plugged into. If there's no power, check the fuses or circuit breakers. If the fuses or breakers aren't the problem, contact a qualified electrician to restore power to the outlet.

If there is power to the appliance but it still seems to be stopped, there may be a problem in one or more of these: - Wiring - Thermostat - Defrost timer - Compressor - Overload and/or relay
Unfortunately, we can't describe all of the possible problems and repair solutions here. If you are unable to troubleshoot the problem from here, you may need to contact a qualified appliance repair technician.

The whole fridge just isn’t as cold as it should be or it’s warming up.

  • It ain’t plugged in…duh!
  • No voltage at the outlet. Go ahead and check the simple things first. And make sure that circuit breaker ain’t tripped.
  • Load of **** on the condenser coil. Pull the bottom grill off and get down on your hands and knees to look. And, Hoss, use a flashlight and a condenser brush if you need to clean the condenser.
  • The condenser fan motor (the one underneath) is fried. If it’s not running, replace it even if it starts running when you start it off by hand. Oh, you may think you fixed it if you get it started again but, believe me, it’ll **** out on you again real soon.
  • You should still check the stuff listed in the previous problem ’cause you might be in the early stages of defrost system failure and it just hasn’t gotten that bad…YET.
  • The cold control is open (that’s "thermostat" for those of you in Palm Beach). I like to jumper out the two wires on the cold control contacts. I don’t know what you like to do but you’re liable to get your gluteous flabeous shocked if you’re not careful doing this.
  • The compressor ain’t starting. This is the dreaded "hummm…CLICK" sometimes heard when a compressor can’t start. There are several things to check if this is the case:
  • The compressor start relay could be fried. The newer solid state relays are especially bad for this.
  • One of the compressor motor windings is opened up. How do we check open circuits, boys and girls? That’s right, we use our ohm meter. These should measure on the order of single digit ohms. The start winding should have slightly higher resistance than the run winding.
  • Current leakage from compressor motor winding to ground. You need to use a special instrument called a megohmmeter.
  • Procedure for checking the compressor.
  • You sprang a freon leak or you got an iceplug in the cap tube. Go shopping.
  • The light could be staying on in the compartment. You’ll need to check and replace that light switch.
  • Someone (kids usually) left the door ajar. "Oh no, I never do that." Yeah right, Bubba, I’ve heard it all before

Hope help with this.

Posted on Apr 23, 2010

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Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 - Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
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Step 2 - Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 - Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 - Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven't got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn't work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.


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Step 1 – Find the Problem

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* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
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This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

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Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

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* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
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Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

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