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Heat pump gets ice covered when heat is on. Cooling works fine. There is two brown wires coming from the unite in the attic to the outside unite. One of the wires has come loose from the outside unit. I don't know where it goes or if this is what is causing the freezing. Thank you, Ky Girl

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  • shirleyaligh Apr 23, 2010

    Carrier

    38YCC024300

  • laura Newman May 11, 2010

    Make & Model of your outside heat pump, please?

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Hello,KY the defrost function is not working.The wire goes to frost sensor or the outside unit control.It is LOW voltage wire.Turn the unit off and carefully look for a abandond/bare wire.Maybe a single wire with a wire nut/cap or splice.Reconnect the wire as there should be no EXTRA wires.The unit will make a strange noise when restarted.Good luck.

Posted on Apr 23, 2010

Testimonial: "Thank you. I will try this tomorrow."

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Your unit will have wires that need to be wire nut connected to the thermostat wire coming from your air handler.
The colors of the wires out your outdoor unit are:
Brown or Black - Common
Red - Hot wire
Yellow - Contactor
Orange - Reversing Valve
White - Electric Heat (used to turn on electric heat when in defrost mode).

So, in summary, you need only 5 wires for your Heat Pump to function properly.

You may be having a problem with the defrost function that could include a failed defrost thermostat or a failed defrost board.
Also check to ensure that your unit will run in air conditioning mode and blow cold air (this will ensure the reversing valve is working).
If the ice starts to form in an uneven pattern around your unit, it is possibly low on refrigerant.

I'll look forward to hearing back from you with further questions, comments, concerns. :-)

Posted on Apr 24, 2010

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2 Answers

2002 4 ton Bryant air conditioner shuts off, fan still runs but not cooling is problem in the controls in the attic or in the AC unit or both?


With a non heat pump it is a simple 24 volt AC control circuit. In the attic there is a relay that is actuated via the fan control wire directly from the thermostat. On the thermostat there is an auto/man switch that controls the fan. Manual the fan runs all the time. Auto fan turns on and off with the outside compressor.

If the system is not calling for cool and the fan continues to run the fan relay is sticking. common problem. Sometimes after running for several days the relay will stop sticking if not, replace relay.

If the system is calling for cool and the compressor stops I would still expect the fan to run until thermostat tells the A/C to off. Some compressor units include a safety switch or high-pressure cut-out switch A blocked internal valve bad control board or external fan in outside unit defective no air flow in outside unit.
High pressure cut out not good,

Suggest turning temp max cool and observe. If acceptable cool and the compressor runs without interruption all is good, except for the blower in the attic. Safely check relay in attic blower circuit.

Hope this helps.

thermostat-heat-cool-fan-on-czwsw2ci0layswcsyy3dj4dr-4-2.jpg

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My(38ycc030340)carrier heat Pump ac unit blows 5 amp fuse on board in handler in attic when switch stat to heat.


Miss wired or shorted low voltage wiring. Have you changed stat? Animal chewed wires at foundation wall or in attic?

Oct 10, 2016 | Carrier Heating & Cooling

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Hey, I purchased your Honeywell RTH2510 Thermostat, but I didn't even think to label the wires when I took the old thermostat off. Upon installation of the new Thermostat (2510) the Air Conditioning...


The connections that you really need to reference would be at the air handler itself. That would tell you which wires go outside to the heat pump and which wires go to the air handler. I can however give you some basics that may help.

Heat Pump Wiring
Terminals/Colors/Function
R- Red- 24v power supply. (Usually a jumper between RC/RH)
G- Green- Fan
W- White- Heat (Sometimes W1-W2, first or second stage heat)
Y- Yellow- Cooling (Same applies as above i.e. Y1-Y2)
C- Common (Most people use blue unless it is used for B terminal and sometimes cooling on older 4 wire systems.
B/O- Reversing Valve for heat pump. Either powered heating or powered cooling, depending on system installed.
Aux- Also used for heat.

Note: Considering that the installer had their own way to run all wires, use different wires, connections, etc. This is just a reference to common wiring in the field.

How the most common system is hooked up:
Thermostat:
Red wire goes to R terminal
Yellow wire goes to Y1 or Y2 terminal
Green wire goes to G terminal
White wire usually goes to W1 or W2 terminal
Orange or Black wire goes to B/O terminal
Brown wire usually goes to Aux terminal
Blue wire goes to C terminal, unless its being used as stated above.

This is without using a fossil fuel kit or zone control board.

Where do they go from the thermostat?
Red
goes to the air handler transformer or board and goes outside to heat pump to power low voltage controls.
Yellow wire goes straight outside to Y terminals on heat pump unless going to a board inside first.
Green goes to the air handler fan relay.
Common goes to the air handler and outside to heat pump.
Black or Orange will go outside to heat pump terminals for reversing valve.
White usually goes outside to heat pump,and inside to air handler. Will explain reason further down.
Brown will go to the air handler to the heat relay for the emergency heat.

On a call for heat, with a powered cooling system (more common).
The R, Y, and G terminals energize, sending a signal to start the blower and pull in the contactor outside. Note that the Y terminal is usually cooling, but since this is a powered cooling system, the reversing valve is not energized, causing the system to run in heat mode. If you have powered heating, the reversing valve terminal will energize also. Depending on thermostat, if you set the temp substantially higher than room temp, it may kick on the emergency/aux heat to quickly raise the room temp. On a call for emergency/aux heat, the R, G, and E/Aux terminals are energized, turning on the electric/gas heat instead of the heat pump. This comes in handy since the heat pump can only pull so much heat from outside before its not enough to properly warm the house, usually around 30 degrees outside temp. If you are running the heat pump and the system goes into "defrost", the outside unit will send a signal back to the air handler, through the white wire I mentioned earlier, to tell the emergency/aux heat to come on while it is in defrost mode, providing heat whenever needed.

Again, this is just a reference guide to some basic wiring, but hopefully it will tell you where the problem is or at the least, give you a good start. There are variables in which things can change the wiring like a zoning system or fossil fuel kit. Even then, you should be able to get pretty close. Hope this helps and Happy Holidays!

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Unless you just installed or had the thermostat installed recently, I would not point at the thermostat as the problem. With what you have described I would suggest have your units serviced as it sounds like a loss of charge, or failed defrost control board. The "Aux" comes on when the unit is using secondary heating (electric heat strips). That occurs when the demand temperature (what you set it to) in Heat mode is more than the current room temperature, usually ~2-4 degrees higher. Also happens in defrost mode. Defrost is a heat pump cycle that melts any build up of ice on the condenser unit (outside unit). That process is simply the unit running in cool mode which will heat up the outside unit to melt any ice. Defrost cycles vary with manufacture but usually you can tell if is in defrost by looking at the outside unit, during defrost the unit will be warm or hot sometimes there is steam and the compressor will be running but not the fan. Defrost only happens on heat pumps in "Heat" mode. Rheem has a 10 yr compressor and parts warranty, so call the installer or Rheem authorized service company.

Nov 11, 2013 | Honeywell RTH7600D Touchscreen 7-Day...

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Central heat works fine, but a/c does not come on and the blower in the attic doesnt come on when switched to cool only for heat. Touch R & G wires together nothing happens. R & Y nothing happens....


Probably not in the wiring unless you did it yourself. Most likely it is the outside unit that is not coming on for any number of reasons. Call a tech to trace the problem.

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1 Answer

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red to r white to w2 , g=green , yellow to y terminal there should be a wire hooked to the b terminal usually brown sometimes orange on the b terminal that is your reversing valve terminal.
you are going to have to make sure the thermostat is configured to energize the b termianl and will have to go into the installer setup to do this...hopefully you still have the paper work on thermostat... most heat pumps use the o terminal for reversing valve but rheem uses the b terminal
hope this helps out some repost with anymore probs...also make sure the switches are set to electric or gas whatever you have heat pump or not etc. inside thermostat

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1 Answer

New heat pump system freezing, questioning wiring.


W1 and E on stat need tied together. When W1 comes on wire where all heat elements come on. On the outside unit defrost board set the 45-60-90 to 45 and see if that takes care of the frost problem.

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you may have lost your refrigerant and the unit is shut off on low pressure.

You can check the unit's charge by turning on the indoor fan and pushing the ourtdoor contactor down(the relay with heavy wires going in). With the unit runnig for a couple minuits does the large copper line coming into the outdoor unit from the indoor coil get cold to the touch?
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No hot air


There could be a couple of problems going on. Your fuse on the heater up in the attic is popped.
Your glow ignition is broken.
Your spark ignitor is bad (if that is what you have)
GAs valve is bad.
Or the vent sensor is bad, meaning that the exhaust fumes are not going anywhere.
Now when you turn on the heater your condensiing unit outside should never turn on unless you are calling for AC. Now if the ac is not coming on there can be more problems.
Disconnect fuse is popped.
Wiring is wrong going to the heating board.
No wires for AC going to the thermostat

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