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I have a Kenmore Refrig Model # 106.56532400. I have replaced the compressor, thermisters, evap fan motor on this thing. It is getting down to 34 below and It's just too cold. Can you tell me what else needs to be done?

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  • Steven Humphrey Apr 23, 2010

    Hi



    To clarify: I replaced ther thermisters or temp control sensors as some call them. The refigerator side is working fine and the flap is working perfect. The freezer section is at 34 below and staying there.



    Thanks

  • Steven Humphrey Apr 23, 2010

    I'm hoping this is not the electronic conrtol on this refrig.

  • Steven Humphrey Apr 23, 2010

    Thanks for your help. It seems none of this has helped on this thing. I guess it's time for a new one

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Lets clarify a bit. You replaced the thermostats? The part the adjustment dial connects to?
And it is getting 34 degrees below zero? In the freezer part or the fridge part?

Honestly I like to keep our freezer portions to around 20 degree F. and the refridgerator to 33 or 34 degrees depending on how well it circulates air. At that temp Milk will keep double its expiration date.

To help you though I need to know what the temps are for the freezer and the fridge. Then I need to know what temps in each you are looking for.
Generally you start your temp selection in the freezer because the fridge just gets air bypassed from the freezer. There should be an air control door between the two compartments.

Posted on Apr 23, 2010

  • Bryan Fullerton
    Bryan Fullerton Apr 23, 2010

    Have you allowed this thing to do a a full defrost? Sometimes things will get frozen due to high use that is just too much for the frost free feature to handle. Try to use up your perishables and then unplug it and let it sit overnight. Make sure to have water evap trays empty and ready to go. Sometimes this is a simple fix and sometimes not. depends on how much money you want to spend. No matter what though as techs we cant help without the right information. Reference my earlier questions.



  • Bryan Fullerton
    Bryan Fullerton Apr 23, 2010

    Ok thankyou fixya. finally updated. I see the fridgerator is working fine. thats good. and you have the freezer turned as warm as possible . Which is basically set at 1.
    Try setting the fridge part to be 34 or 33 degrees. The cooler it is the more cold the freezer has to share.
    If that doesnt help then the control board is not reading the temp sensor for the freezer.


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I understand that you have a refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly? Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. May have a problem in one of several areas:
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
The defrost timer
The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem.

Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Hope help with this; tell us news.

Posted on Apr 23, 2010

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