Question about Refrigerators
Lets clarify a bit. You replaced the thermostats? The part the adjustment dial connects to?
And it is getting 34 degrees below zero? In the freezer part or the fridge part?
Honestly I like to keep our freezer portions to around 20 degree F. and the refridgerator to 33 or 34 degrees depending on how well it circulates air. At that temp Milk will keep double its expiration date.
To help you though I need to know what the temps are for the freezer and the fridge. Then I need to know what temps in each you are looking for.
Generally you start your temp selection in the freezer because the fridge just gets air bypassed from the freezer. There should be an air control door between the two compartments.
Posted on Apr 23, 2010
I understand that you have a refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but
cooling poorly? Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost
build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with
dust, lint, and dirt. May have a problem in one of several areas:
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem.
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
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Posted on Apr 23, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Aug 19, 2012 | Refrigerators
My parts lookup too has no images available for you refrig but i believe it to be a GE Profile with a fresh food fan (and air duct down the center of the fresh food side). All fan motors are 12vdc and run off the Lowvoltage side of motherboard. i assume you are checking voltage to comp from motherboard? How did you check relay?? Have you axcessed motherboard?? On the top of (I say top-- i belive its mounted horiz on yours but all the small wires are on the right) is all the low voltage fan motor, damper, control wiring On the bottom (or the left) side of the motherboard is the larger line voltage wiring. The connector with 3 wires is labeled def -- comp---line it should be blue. Try jumping L1 to comp. ((Just so ya know Def will energize the def heater regardless of compartment temp it does have a bimetal but it only a safety set at 100deg in case relay on board welds shut---it monitor evap compartment, frz, fresh food, (two seperate in FF) in your model))
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