Question about LG DLE2532W Electric Dryer

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I want to replace the thermostat and high limit thermostat, but am having trouble removing back panel for access. It almost looks like I have to take part of the top apart to be able to remove back panel. Any tricks or tips on this?

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Leave back panel alone you have to access from the front there should be a lower front panel

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

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1 Answer

How to turn up the temp. on a Rheem mod. 82v52-2 hot water heater


To adjust the thermostat, turn off the water heater. Then remove the access panel(s) and any insulation. The access panels are above the drain valve. Take a small flat blade screwdriver and rotate thermostat dial pointer. (The lower temperature settings are to the right.) Replace the access panel(s) and insulation and then turn on the water heater. Do not remove the protective cover on the thermostat.

Wait for water to heat and then check the temperature at various faucets. Make sure to adjust the anti-scald temperature limiter at any faucet that may be accessed by a small child or adult who might be injured by high water temperatures. (Just put a thermometer in the flowing water. Check the faucet installation information. The high temperature limiter will be under/behind the handle for single handle fixtures.)

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Feb 21, 2015 | Rheem Water Heaters

2 Answers

My whirlpool leb 6000 pqo will not heat


check heating coils, high limit, temp selector switch.

Apr 05, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

How do you install a thermal fuse kit on a Magic Chef CYE4000AYW. Unlike other models it doesn't look like you can just take the back panel off; do you really have to take the top and back off?


The thermal fuse kit is accessible from the top of the dryer. Disconnect power and using a putty knife, release the two spring clips holding the top cover to the cabinet. Insert the putty knife in the seam between the top cover and the cabinet at about 4 inches from the sides. Lift the top cover when the first spring clip is released while releasing the second clip then lift the top cover to the rear of the dryer.

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The high-limit thermostat is located on top of the heater housing at the rear of the dyer. Remove the screw that secures the high-limit thermostat bracket and replace the thermostat.

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The thermal fuse is located on the right hand side of the heater housing and is mounted on a bracket. There's a 1/4" hex-head screw that holds both the heating element and thermal fuse brackets. Remove the screw and the thermal fuse bracket can be lifted off.

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The thermal fuse bracket has two locating tabs, one at the bottom and the other is half-way up. Lift the bracket to clear the tabs then remove it and replace the thermal fuse. Reinstall the thermal fuse and high-limit thermostat brackets in reverse order of the removal steps. Press down on the top cover against the cabinet to reengage the spring clips.

Apr 05, 2011 | Magic Chef Dryers

1 Answer

I am trying to take the back off of my Whirlpool clothes dryer model LEQ8611LW1 to replace the heating element, but the back will not come off. How do I get to the heating element?


The dryer doesn't have a removable rear access panel and the heating element is accessible through the bottom front panel. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, locate and release the two bottom front panel clips approximately 4 inches from the sides.
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Once the panel is off, locate the heating element housing is on the right side and remove the hex-head screw from the heater shield.
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Remove the hex-head screw from the side of the heater housing and slide the heating element out then slide the new heating element in and secure it with the hex-head screw.

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Note:

The heating element is not necessarily busted and needs to be replaced when the dryer fails to heat up. The first thing to look at is the thermal cut-off. It blows open and cut power to the heating element if the high-limit thermostat is faulty. Disconnect the red wire from the thermal cut-off and the red/white stripe wire from the heater. Connect the red wire disconnected from the thermal cut-off to the heater terminal where the red/white stripe wire is disconnected from.

Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed with the two bypassed components if the dryer heats up. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat and it should solve the heating problem. Do not use the dryer with those parts bypassed due to high risk of fire hazards.

Apr 01, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

3 Answers

LER4634EQO Whirlpool Heavy Duty Extra Large Capacity 4 cycle 3 temptures My dryer is not heating. I have checked the breaker(s). There is not much lint around the dryer in the back or the vent, what...


The problem is likely in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

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The
thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat are sold as a kit with part number 279816 and costs about $30.

In case the dryer still doesn't heat up with the
thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat bypassed, bypass the cycling thermostat then replace it if the dryer heats up. Check the heating element for broken coils if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the three components mentioned above bypassed.

Feb 10, 2011 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Model RES7745PQ0 works great but no heat... what is most likely the problem... also I checked my breaker so that's not it...? HELP\r\nBest Regards


The problem is likely in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

jahn27_43.jpg

The
thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat are sold as a kit with part number 279816 and costs about $30.

In case the dryer still doesn't heat up with the
thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat bypassed, bypass the cycling thermostat then replace it if the dryer heats up. Check the heating element for broken coils if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the three components mentioned above bypassed.

Jan 19, 2011 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

Model LEQ9508PW1. It has stopped getting hot. Just stopped putting out any heat. I assume that it is probably the heating element that has gone out. Is there anything else I should check first before...


Check first the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect the power then start the dryer. The problem is in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

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Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat both bypassed. If the dryer still doesn't heat up, take the heating element out and inspect it for damage. Replace the heating element if damaged.

Jan 18, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

My Kenmore Dryer 90 Plus Type DDOTELE2406028-EH54 Mod 11068942892 runs but does not heat.


The common problem in this case is in the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off located on the heater housing. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat by removing the bottom front panel.

Removing Bottom Front Panel

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Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect the power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Let us know should you need further assistance.

Dec 21, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

F8 heat low it goes up to 494 and stops there


It generally is the IR Element that has gone bad. Look for burned wiring where the IR Element enters the oven cavity. Check for continuity through the IR Element.

1. Check that the blower motor is moving air.
o Blower motor is not moving air: Check blower motor assembly
and verify motor is stalled. Unplug oven and correct obstruction or
replace motor. (For access to motor shaft, remove top panel.)
o Blower motor is moving air: Verify high-limit thermostat is
not tripped. See the high-limit thermostat information below.
High-Limit Thermostat:
o Thermostat tripped: Reset and determine why the thermostat
tripped (See Figure 38, Item 114). Look for excess build up of
grease inside the oven or any other source for a fire.
o Thermostat is not tripped: Check main convection heater.
1. Convection heater is defective: Unplug oven and replace the
convection heater and verify the K4 SSR (Figure 37) is not
shorted across output.
2. Convection heater OK: Check the K4 SSR.
o K4 defective: Unplug oven and replace.
o K4 OK: Unplug oven and verify all wiring. Verify P1 voltage on
I/O board is 5.0VDC (+/- 0.02) -

Aug 28, 2010 | TurboChef TORNADO Electric Oven

1 Answer

How do I diagnose a problem with a dryer that works but is not getting hot? It's a Maytag MDE2600AYW


Since the dryer runs, the thermal fuses are fine making a possible open circuit condition in any of the heating element, the cycling thermostat, and the high-limit thermostat. Remove the front panel to access the cycling thermostat on the blower housing, the high-limit thermostat on the heating element enclosure, and the heating element itself. Once accessed, check the continuity of the high-limit thermostat and the large terminals of the cycling thermostat. There should be continuity on both parts. Use a volt-ohmmeter and set it to the R X 1 scale. Continuity means zero resistance. Replace the part found with no continuity, i.e., open.

Check the resistance of the heating element using the same volt-ohmmeter set to the R X 1 scale. Replace the heating element should its resistance reads infinite (open).

The front panel can be removed by removing the four screws located vertically along the inside lip of the door opening. These screws hold the front panel to the front shroud assembly.

Once the four screws are removed, grasp and press in on the upper edges of the front panel posts then twist it inward to release the clips holding it to the cabinet. Tilt the top of the front panel and move it away from the dryer. Reinstall it in reverse of the removal steps.

May 23, 2010 | Dryers

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