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Re: Sliding mirror door. The mirror is falling off.
No frame around the outside edge of the panels? You can buy glue especially designed for adhering mirrors to a backing. This mirror glue will not pull the reflective material off of the back of the mirror. But it sounds to me like the backing panel may have been compromised whereby it is now warped. So you can try the mirror glue but I am optimistic as to its effectiveness. As an option: buy a high quality roll of tape; cloth tapes come in colors; use the tape as a decorative border which at the same time will somewhat secure the mirror to the backing. Or just replace the mirror doors with new ones; probably cost less than $50.
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This question is in the car and truck section but seems to be more along the "how I get onto my sundeck" idea.
If that's correct, here's the typical technique:
At the lower outer edge of the frame (where you would pinch your fingers if you closed the door) on both edges, the will be a hole with a screw head visible. There may be a round plastic cover to remove to expose it. These screws allow adjustment of the height of the door by altering the vertical position of the wheels.
It's a good idea to try to get the door to fit evenly against the frame that it latches against.
1. Place your hands at each end of the retainer trim piece that runs along the bottom of the dishwasher door panel. The piece may be metal, black plastic or another color, depending on your dishwasher model. Lift up on the retainer section and pull it toward you to remove it. Set the retainer aside.
2. Press the palms of both hands on the old facing and slide it down until the top is free. The facing flexes easily to allow you to slip it out from under the trim along each side.
3. Hold the replacement door panel, or reverse the old one, so that the desired color is facing you. Turn the panel, if needed, so the dimensions line up with the dishwasher door.
4. Slip the side of the facing into the left side of the frame on the dishwasher door.
5. Secure the other side of the facing into the right side of the dishwasher frame by bowing the panel gently and sliding it into the frame.
6. Slide the new facing up and into place so you can reposition the retainer.
7.Hold the new color panel and the spacer behind it up over the lower edge of the frame about 1/4 inch.
8. Snap the retainer into place. Push down on the horizontal piece gently to ensure it is securely connected.
9. Adjust the new panel down a bit with the palms of your hands to cover the 1/4-inch space.
There are 7 tabs holding the mirror cover on three along the bottom ,two just below the horizontal middle line and two at the top.Squeezing the bottom corner near the car towards the outside of the mirror and pulling gently forward will release the weakest clip at the bottom.The other two bottom ones poke vertically down, the middle two hook over their slot with the hook facing down.Lifting the bottom edge of the mirror cover will help release these. As in the manual push the mirror back along the bottom edge to get some access at the top then using a thin screwdriver push down on two black clips at the left and right upper side edges of the top of the mirror try at the same time to lift the mirror cover up and towards the back of the car to release the remaining bottom and middle clips.Have a look at night with a torch and you may be able to see what is going on with the top two clips. Be careful not to apply too much pressure and break the clips. I have taken pictures which I will try to post on another site. Most mechanics were useless in explaining how to do this but I finally found one who could. The other answers above are not relevant.
The top can be used as a sunroof or taken off completely. For the sunroof, you only have to unclip the two clips by each sun visor, and fold the front bow back so it sits on top of the roll bar. There is a velcro strip that goes through a hole in the front bow, to keep it in place. To totally take the top off, you again uncleip the 2 clips by the sun visor. When the front bow is moved partway back, the material on the front bow is loose. There are sliding clips on the front of the convertible top that are slid along the front bow, so that the material is removed from the bow itself. Along each of the doors is an elastic clip that needs to be removed. Now the front of the top is pretty loose. Around the rear windows is a metal bar, with fabric snapped around it. Undo the snaps. Then forcefully push the metal bar outwards. The material around the rear window area can then be removed from around the metal bar. At this point, you can probably unzip the rear window. There are 2 pieces of plastic that slide into plastic grooves at the very rear of each corner of the car, that hold the rear of the top down. You just pull the rear of the fabric away from the rear corner of the car. And that's it.
Check the bottom weather strip along the frame, it's common for passengers to knock them off it's runners and they fall down preventing the sliding door to close properly.
If it is the weather strip, place some RTV silicon to keep it in place when you re-install the weather strip back in place.
Thank you for using fixya and keep me posted, be glad to help you get your sliding door working 100% again.
Remove the screws in the arm rest pocket. Remove the screw up by the mirror. If it's a power door, gently pop the master window and door lock switch from the top careful not to break the tabs. Remove the screws along the bottom. Gently pry the outer edges to release hidden plastic clips. Once it comes loose, lift to release the upper edge.
Stick black substance is probably the light seal the camera has along the edge of the door. Over time these foam like seal become stickey and start to fall apart. The same stuff is used as mirror dampening the mirror flips up when you take a picture. I think you can do a search on Google for an instruction to replace these deteriorating seals. I've had plenty of them myself on classic film cameras.