Question about Asko 1595 Dishwasher

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Asko dishwasher starts and immediatly stops

Our power flcked on an off a few times. Now my Asko dishwaser starts and immediatly stops. A squirt of water comes out before it goes off. I cannot make any changes on the board. Did something get fryed or can I just reset something?

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  • 6 more comments 
  • myguinesssto Apr 23, 2010

    Hi, It is set to normal load. the board does not respond at all. If I depress and release the main power on/off switch, I hear a breif(1 sec) shot of water and then it stops. The indicator just reads (52) minutes.
    Thanks,
    Mike

  • myguinesssto Apr 23, 2010

    Macmarkus,
    I apologize, I should of stated the model. It is a 1504 and the power switch is just below and to the right of the handle.
    Thanks,
    Mike

  • myguinesssto Apr 24, 2010

    Thanks for the info Macmarkus,
    I ordered a new pressure switch but in the mean time I took off the old one and cleaned the contacts(hoping not to have to wash the dishes in the dishwasher) but to no avail. How would I go about bypassing the switch?
    Mike

  • myguinesssto Apr 24, 2010

    Hi Macmarkus, Thanks for your help,your direction where on the mark for by-passing the pressure switch. Unfortunatly the washer is still acting the same way. Is there something else to check?
    Thanks,
    mike

  • myguinesssto Apr 25, 2010

    Hi Macmarkus, Do not worry about it,I am just glad to get help. I tested the valve and it did not stay energized. When you say board think you mean the larger board not the keypad board? I noticed when I removed the control panel for what seems like the hundreth time that on the main control board, facing the front of the washer, there are three blue rectangular boxes on the upper right. The larger one in the middle was hanging by the bottom (pin?). I do not know if I inadvertently did this while removing the panel or if it might be related to the issue I am having.I pushed it back in but I am guessing that it probably was soldered on the other side? What does this tell you?
    Thanks, Mike

  • myguinesssto Apr 26, 2010

    Hi Macmarkus,I took off the board and inspected the back and do not see anything burnt or amiss. I inspected the front side again and found something burnt. Close to the relay that is loose are a series of three plastic, clear rectangular boxes that have a coil of copper wire and a set of contacts in them. The lower one shows a burn spot in the plastic on the contact side. I understand this might call for a new board for most jobs but is not an option for me. I can give you 300 reasons($) why. Do you know if parts like these are available and/or even possible to replace? I would also have to consider whether this is just the component of the board that failed or something else that caused it to fail, making me wonder if it might just happen again.
    Any additional advise is greatly appreciated, also thanks for all your help up to now, even if it does not result in a fixed washer i still enjoyed what I learned. I do not think I will ever grow out of the thrill of taking stuff apart(Safely) and sneaking a peek at how it works.
    Thanks,
    Mike

  • myguinesssto Apr 28, 2010

    Hey Macmarkus, I soldered the first relay and the second I guess is fine( Maybe over time some sparking causes some soot to build up,I just wiped it with a q-tip). Put her back together and she runs fine. What a great feeling when I turned the power on and she fired up!
    Thanks again for your help it is greatly appreciated.

    Mike

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald May 11, 2010

    Hi,

    I'm just asking for a clarification. Do the lndicaters flash or anything when it stops ? Does it fill with water, or does it stop before filling ?

    Let me know and I'll tell you what to look for.

    Macmarkus

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  • Asko Master
  • 2,605 Answers

Hi mike, thanks for the clarification. Having this info, I am not sure this model is as the post indicates - "1595". Is it possibly a 1473 or 1474 model with a power button by the door handle ? If so, that is the most common problem with that style Asko. The contacts inside the button make momentary contact & then stop which requires replacing tge switch. Let me know if it is indeed one of these models or confirm what model number it is ok ? Thanks, Macmarkus

Posted on Apr 23, 2010

  • 4 more comments 
  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Apr 23, 2010

    Thanks Mike, and no need to apologize, but I will be gracious and accept. I figured it was a model of that era by your discription and the fact that I did work for Asko during that era I saw alot of them.
    Asko actually identify that switch not as a power switch just as they do with the heater switch but rather a "pressure switch" part number 80-530-00. but don't get hung up on terminology. I used to by-pass that switch with my customers approval ( since it stops when opening the door anyway ) but I recommend just replacing the switch if I'm not on site or advising fellow technicians I apprentice etc. besides I think it is only about $30USD. Make sure you turn off the power before trying to change the switch. You should mark the location of the wires on the switch or take a photo or both. Once you loosen the control panel to replace the switch it's a good habit to inspect the wires, control etc. You likely will notice the wires are all covered in black sound deadning material, don't sweat it just be sure the connections are in good condition and if not replace them.

    Let me know if you require any further assistance. Good luck with your repair.

    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Apr 24, 2010

    Hi Mike,

    As I mentioned before I'm not a big fan of trying to explain how this is done but I'll try. **turn off the power...I never take that for granted so I check for myself & never allow someone to shut it off for me**

    If you notice there are 4 wires on the power switch. Two of them go to the board identified there ( on board ) as PF2 & PF4, the other 2 on the power switch come from F3 & F4 of the noise filter/capacitor below, which are essentially L1 & N ( hot & neutral ). Locate the wires which come from below to the switch, remove those from the switch and connect them directly to the PF2 & PF4 contacts on the board, they will reach usually without any modification...usually. Sometimes wires have been spliced/repaired previously so I can't say in your case. Make sure you make notes and take pictires so you can re-wire the new switch. Keep the wires you remove from the board wrapped in electrical tape until you replace the switch or remove them all together but keep them just to be safe or you'll need to make new wires later. Please be careful, I don't want you to be hurt or blow the main control board.

    Let me know how you make out. Good luck.

    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Apr 24, 2010

    Hello again Mike,



    I just read over your second post and noticed something you said that I hadn't noticed previously, I think I know why the bypass didn't yield the result I expected. You said "The indicator just reads (52) minutes."



    Oops ! I have to apologize not reading more carefully and if it's not too late cancel the order on the power switch. Knowing the control had a display indicates it did have power going to it, so it has to be internal, and likely the relay going to the water/inlet valve since it gives a squirt of water...meaning the relay closes (energizes) but immediately drop's out by the sound of it.



    If you can, set a meter on the AC voltage setting, place two leads going to the water valve ( either at the board or on the valve leads themselves ) and when you turn it on see if the meter moves at all, even momentarily. If it remains energized but doesn't fill, you need a valve. If it doesn't remain energized, remove the board and inspect the printed circuit side ( green with solder joints & circuit path's ) for burnt solder or pathway's.



    Again I'm sorry I missed that crucial bit of info in your second post, if I hadn't I'd never steer you wrong. Let me know what you find and I will make every effort to help.



    macmarkus :(

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Apr 25, 2010

    Mike,

    Hello, yes it is that board I was talking about, the same one as the switch by-pass. If the relay was just hanging by a single pin, that isn't good. If you can solder maybe you could repair it. Did you inspect the entire printed circuit board ? If so how did it look ? Let me know what you find I'm very curious, but the user interface/keypad rarely goes bad.

    macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Apr 26, 2010

    Mike, well I have to say I admire your spirit, I guess because I'm of like mind. If I think I can fix something I have to try, hell I'm just curious of what makes thing's tick. I have good news and not so good news, you'll have to decide. The good news is this, usually the relay's itself is at fault and the only thing which "causes" them to fail is the coil or contact's within the relay assembly. Since you can see through these particular relays, you can identify the contacts are indeed burnt up. The bad news...I don't know if you have a local electonic part supply vendor which could fit you with such a relay. I guess your best bet would be to take the entire control to such a part place/supply store and see if it is an option. If you can identify the specs./values on the side of the relay you could also try on-line. You may luck out and find an outfit which can rebuild the control for a reasonable cost. I used to use a place in Ontario, Canada called "National Timer", but I don't even know if they are around anymore that was more than ten years ago.

    Let me know what you find out, As I said I'm curious.

    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Apr 28, 2010

    Awesome !

    Hi Mike, I got the email earlier today from fixya that you'd added a comment but hadn't had a chance to look at it until recently ( I'm a big hockey fan and was watching the game ).
    That is great though. It feels good when someone is able to fix a problem that may have otherwise meant $300-$400 minimum or a new machine. Glad to see you stuck to it and saw it through, and yes I know how good that feels when you accomplish/repair something on your own. Congrats !

    Hope it goes another 15yrs. for you...not likely, a few anyway though right, ha ha !

    It's been great working with you, come visit "fixya" in the future for any of your household repair tips and tell your friends and family. Take care Mike.

    Macmarkus :)

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