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Clothing dryer. Heat comes on and then after a short while turns off. I can see the ignition element heating up and I also hear a clicking/rattle noise. The gas does not ignite. Air goes cold. If I turn the dryer off for a while, turn it on the heat comes back for a short while. I recently replaced the thermal resistor and just now have replaced the cycle thermostat. Problem persists. What do you think this might be?? Does the cycle thermostat have to be wired up in a special order? There are two sets of wires - one set of two matching red wires with small terminals and another set of two matching blue wires with larger terminals. They seem to fit correctly on the terminals of the thermostat - just wondering red-to-termal and/or blue to terminal order is important. Is there anything else that might be causing the dryer to heat, then lose heat? What about the rattle/clicking noise?

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  • 1chris_andre Apr 22, 2010

    Yes - very helpful.
    This was a well thought out reply which took into account the symptoms and observations I supplied and gave me a route to follow and ways of checking to determine the problem's cause. Well thought out, very clearly written, I believe I can now figure out what is wrong and likely fix my dryer. Thank you local wonder!

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Hi. That rattling noise is a very strong indication of a failed set of gas valve coils.

On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will not heat.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.

Posted on Apr 22, 2010

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