Fault light is on, all else looks normal and

If your Rheem furnace has two steady green lights and the flow chart indicates that a "normal fault detected", it typically means that the furnace is operating normally and there are no active faults detected. The two green lights indicate that the furnace is receiving power and that the control board is functioning properly.
If you are experiencing issues with your furnace, it is recommended to check for any error codes displayed on the control board or consult with a licensed HVAC technician for further troubleshooting and maintenance.

need service manual to determine the fault code usually by counting the blinks normally the blink should pause to let you know the count the look at the symptom on manual.

62-24084-02 LED CODES
POWER LED - GREEN
ON - Normal
OFF - No power to board
OK LED - GREEN
One Blink - One hour retry delay
Two Blinks - Pressure switch failure (remains open)
Three Blinks - Limit switch fault
Four Blinks - Pressure switch failure (remains closed)
Five Blinks - Twinning fault
FLAME LED - YELLOW
ON - Good flame
Rapid Blink - Flame present with gas valve de-energizing
Slow Blink - Marginal flame

Hello there, I am the Expert that will be helping you today, my name is damnor01. Welcome to Fixya!

The Green light on the rear is the ethernet/internet cable, try removing this and then power on.
Your computer as you mentioned is in a state that is known as a dead computer system.

What you need to do is reduce the number of variables by removing components, and trying to get the system to POST. Pass the Power On Self Test.
Don't be too quick to replace the power supply, unless you heard a fairly loud pop and the smell of sulfur.
The green light on the rear of the computer chassis indicates to us that the computer is getting some form of power so the power supply is not likely the fault here.
I have published some guides that will get you well on your way in solving this problem.

They are as below;
How to Remove the Side Panels of My Computer Chassis!!!

How do I reset my BIOS/CMOS to defaults?

My Computer is not turning on!!! Is it dead!!! No POST!!!

Yes your computer can be fixed and no your data will still be present on the hard drive. It seems to me to be a hardware fault.
Also try removing the side panel and letting the computer air for a while, 30min or so. Remember to clean the dust from the Processor Heat sink and the chassis as well.
You also want to go through the computer chassis and push in all the connections, 4pin CPU power, 24pin Mainboard power. Graphics card and of course the main power from the wall, check it is indeed on.

Thanking you kindly
damnor01

I believe that Mitsubishi has one of the best and easiest 4X4 selector systems on the Pajero/ Montero. Just below the gear shifter lever is the 4X4 mode selector. A lever like the gear shifter that works in a up, down movement. On your dash board you will notice a sort of axle, chassis diagram in green light. In normal 2WD or 2H mode the lever is set all the way back and on the dash only the rear wheels a lite up in green light on the axle, chassis diagram. This is for normal driving on the highway and smooth roads of dry dirt roads. Pushing the lever up wards while moving at crawling speed will engage the light 4X4 mode which is 4H for when the driving gets a little slippery. All 4 wheels on the axle/ chassis diagram will be lite green. Shifting the lever from the 4H position to the left and upwards will engage the 4HLc mode for 4X4 on sand and deep snow. This will also engage the central diff lock which will show on the axle/ chassis diagram on the dash board with the center box also lite up. Further up from the 4HLc mode and while pushing down on the 4X4 lever push it to the top most position, but only do this when at a stand still with your foot on the brake pedal. This will engage the 4LLc mode with 4X4 and central diff lock on for when driving gets sweaty on thick mud up and incline. To disengage this mode stop, foot on break put it in P and then pull down the lever to one of the lower settings.

I had a similar problem. I had a 52" RCArear projection tv. It would do this when I initially turned on the television, but then after a few "on/off, on/off, on/off" cycles it would stay on. Eventually it started doing it more; until finally there was a spark and that was it. The tv was dead.The bloggers called it "the blinking green light of death" (because of green light on the panel).The power board is going out.ALSO holding down the Input and Menu buttons afterward will give you some diagnostic information via 2 sets of blinking indicator lights.

You may very well have issues with capacitors on this set being that it is or very similar to the V26 chassis. Since I have spare test lamps laying around, I would normally try that first. If the lamp still would not stay lit, I would then suspect the electrical chassis (capacitors). When I suspect the chassis, I can usually verify it by pulling it out and partially disassemble it and find blown capacitors

Take a look at the second half of this solution.
SOLUTION

I had a similar problem. I had a 52" RCArear projection tv. It would do this when I initially turned on the television, but then after a few "on/off, on/off, on/off" cycles it would stay on. Eventually it started doing it more; until finally there was a spark and that was it. The tv was dead.The bloggers called it "the blinking green light of death" (because of green light on the panel).The power board is going out.ALSO holding down the Input and Menu buttons afterward will give you some diagnostic information via 2 sets of blinking indicator lights.

You may very well have issues with capacitors on this set being that it is or very similar to the V26 chassis. Since I have spare test lamps laying around, I would normally try that first. If the lamp still would not stay lit, I would then suspect the electrical chassis (capacitors). When I suspect the chassis, I can usually verify it by pulling it out and partially disassemble it and find blown capacitors

Capacitor failure is the most likely scenario the FMT ans Signal PWB would cause the picture interference and the power pwb would cause the lamp light to turn red and give a 34 code when the device/ input and menu buttons are pressed in together and held for five seconds. That chassis has issues with every board in the chassis having failed capacitors you can get repair kits for the V26 chassis at the follwing link that come with instructions. Your model is the V26 chassis. Heres the link.
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/

Any luck?

Have you tried replacing the EEPROM? It may have lost it's programming for that set. Stargazer