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Re: 2 dryer bars
The bars are called BAFFLES P/N: 12002559 They are attached by 4 screws through the drum. You must pop the top to reinstall the baffles. Take one of the baffles to the hardware store and buy some good fitting screws. Then pop the top and use a screwdriver to reattach them. Fairly easy to fix. IF you have the old ones. Do dry tennis shoes in there. Oopz LOL
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You may be over stuffing. Try smaller loads and see if you have better results. Too much stuff in the dryer means that your clothes will have less room to move around, and if they're all crumpled up in the machine, they'll come out, well, crumpled-up-looking.
Check your settings on your dryer. See if it's on a longer duration of time to dry. Dryers have different wording depending upon the make and model. If you're trying to dry smaller loads the heat settings s
does not have to be set for very long. Heavier, loads with thicker clothing will need to dry a little longer. When you take the clothes out of the washing machine, do you shake the clothes before putting them in the dryer? And do you use dryer sheets? Believe it or not, they're not only used to help make your clothe's smell fresh but they also help elevate static and a few wrinkles.
My wife, who runs "dryer central", stops the dryer short of complete drying and hangs the clothes that are easily wrinkled. You may also have the heat set too high, or the time set too long, causing the problem. Try experimenting. Be blessed.
Close the door firmly. The dryer will not operate if the door is not completely closed.
Press the "Start" button firmly or push the knob in to start the dryer.
Turn the dial past the "Off" position and away from "Wrinkle
Prevent." The dryer will not start in the "Off" or "Wrinkle Prevent"
Long Drying Times
Remove the lint screen. Clean it and replace it.
Check the temperature of the room. The dryer will not operate properly in temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
Inspect the area around the dryer. It requires at least
1-inch clearance on the front and sides of the dryer. A 5-inch clearance
is needed on the back of the dryer. Move the dryer, if needed.
Separate large loads and do not use an air dry cycle.
Lint, Stains and Wrinkles
Clean the lint screen before drying each load of clothes to prevent lint buildup on clothing.
Add fabric softener sheets before starting a drying cycle.
If the sheets are added after the load has partially dried, they can
leave stains on the clothing.
Dry small loads and remove clothing as soon as the drying cycle completes to prevent wrinkling.
Dryer is Noisy
Check the inside of the dryer for loose change, buttons or other items. Empty the pockets on clothing before drying.
Separate items that are knotted together and restart the
load. Knotted or balled up clothing will bounce and make the dryer
Level the dryer. Turn the leveling legs on the front of the
dryer clockwise or counter-clockwise until the dryer is level. Turning
the legs clockwise will lower the dryer. Turning the legs
counter-clockwise will raise the dryer.
Dryers have 2 basic types: AUTODRY and Electronic. The electronic moisture control relies on 2 bars inside the dryer. As wet clothes rub these bars the wetness discharges the capacitor on the moisture control board. As long as the cap don't get a full charge the timer motor will not advance forward to the end of cycle. What goes wrong on these? Wax buildup on moisture bars form a barrier that keeps wetness off them bars. The control thinks them clothes is dry and shuts her down. On autodry the timer motor advances very slowly, The motor does not work while the heating element is on. Only when the heating element is off does the timer motor advance. As them clothes gets dryer the temp inside the dryer stays warmer and therefore the dryer thermostat keeps the heater off long and the timer motor advances. Like being on a highway with traffic jam you go a little bit then stop then go a little bit more then stop. Finally you get there. So what goes wrong? The control thermostat is not functioning properly causing the heater limit to do all the work . Instead the heater limit has to do the work and it ain't a real happy camper. Makes them clothes get too hot. They come out wrinkled.
Use some windex to clean the wax buildup off the dryer sensors under the filter housing inside the dryer. Autodry VS electronic sensing: First, wet clothes are electrically conductive. With electronic sensing dryers as the wet clothes tumble, they touch the two metal bars in the drum. (Auto dry dryers utilize a system of cycling the timer motor with the element, and has nothing to do with how wet the clothes are by the way.) There is a capacitor on the control that is trying to build up a charge, but when wet clothes create a short from one bar to the other, this charge is released to the frame of the dryer, therefore discharging the capacitor. As long as the capacitor charge is low, the control knows the clothes are wet. As the clothes become dryer, they short the bars fewer and fewer times. Once the capacitor charge builds to a certain level, the control knows the clothes are mostly dry, and it advances the program to the final timed portion, usually less than 20 minutes, some of which is a cool down portion to reduce wrinkling. If your dryer is shutting off after only 10 minutes, that means the control capacitor is never getting discharged. This can be due to a few different reasons: 1. Sensing bar wire is disconnected or broken; 2. Load is not large enough (remember the bars must be contacted repeatedly); 3. Bars are "coated" by fabric softener build up and need to be cleaned with Windex or 409. 4. Defective control board. 5. Airflow is restricted and moisture can't escape the drum. 6. Corrosion built-up on sensing board connection.(yank out the board and clean the contacts that sometimes is all it takes) Address the airflow condition and load size. Clean the sensor bars and make sure the wires are all connected securely. There is a diagnostic mode you can enter to test the control's ability to sense the bar contact that is illustrated in the tech sheet which is located within the control panel on many models. No sensing bars means you have auto-dry a totally different animal. Typically an orange wire is connected to the high limit on the heater element housing which feeds the timer motor when the element is not in operation. Bad control thermostat or air restrictions are the Autodry type dryer's worst enemy. Special thanks to a.g.
HI thanks for your question. the problem with your dryer, is that the front felt bearing is worn. and dropped the drum a bit and clothes getting caught. replace the front bearing and the back bearing. not too expensive. thanks the appliance doc. please rate my question. thanks.
On auto dry cycles, the cycle is controlled by moisture sensing bars located on either the rear or front bulkhead, ( visible inside dryer ) if the moisture sensor bars are shorted together (normally by wet clothing) the dryer will continue to run. If the dryer continues to run when the clothes are plenty dry, check and see if there is anything stuck between the sensor bars, (sometimes a metal sequin will cause this) or see if they are damaged. If not, you may have a problem with a timer contact, if the timer advances and stops moving at the same spot each time, I would suspect the timer. If this is an EvenHeat dryer, examine the control board located to the right of the timer in the control panel, for any burned components. Hope this helps.