Question about Samsung DLP HL-P5663W 56" TV

4 Answers

I cannot remove the fan from a 56" Samsung DLP HL-P5663W. I have removed the two screws mounting it but it will not come out.

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  • SkyyW Mar 22, 2008

    The diagram you provided is different than my actual set. Please tell me if you have one that is specific to my size and model. Thanks.

  • SkyyW Mar 22, 2008

    It appears that the diagrams for any other size do not work for the 56". I will be happy to provide pics of my assembly if required.

  • SkyyW Mar 22, 2008

    I've looked over it as much as I can but don't see a gasket. It appears to be either stuck or mounted to the TV. I think I've removed all of the screws that hold it but I'll give it more of a pull if you think it's stuck. Could it possibly be attached to the black plastic piece in the image?

  • SkyyW Mar 22, 2008

    No, no gasket. Pulled harder, concerned about breaking it. I feel strongly that it is attached elsewhere so I'll keep looking. Thanks.

  • SkyyW Mar 23, 2008

    Am I the only one with this TV or replacing the color wheel? Am I on my own on this? ANY suggestion to get this fan out would be beneficial.

  • SkyyW Mar 23, 2008

    Dude, same site everyone else is taking me to. Not the same model and the fan is positioned completely differently. That isn't even the fan I'm removing. Check the images I sent over.

  • SkyyW Mar 23, 2008

    You know what? Screw the fan, how about telling me how to replace the color wheel for this model TV. Once again it is an HL-P5663W. The color wheel part number is BP96-00674A, if it will help. Part of the instructions for the color wheel should include removing the fan.

  • SkyyW Mar 24, 2008

    Not the same as my set. Once again, mine is a Samsung DLP HL-P5663W 56" TV.

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4 Answers

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  • Master
  • 796 Answers

Have a look at this link.....

there are another two screws that you might have missed i think...

Posted on Mar 23, 2008

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  • Master
  • 1,512 Answers

Hi Skyy, it may just be stuck against a rubber sealing gasket. Have you tried gently levering it from one corner to break out the adhesion of the gasket/

regards
Graeme

Posted on Mar 22, 2008

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  • Master
  • 3,422 Answers

HI,

Please visit the below link it will solve your problem out.Everything is expoplained step by step with the diagram.

Click HERE

Goodluck,
Please don't forget to rate the solution.

Posted on Mar 22, 2008

  • Priya darshan Mar 22, 2008

    ooops looks like we both posted the same link ginko..

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  • Samsung Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Here is the illustrate d procedure for the 61'', should be the same.

regards

Posted on Mar 22, 2008

  • Ginko
    Ginko Mar 23, 2008

    To change the color wheel:
    1. Remove the back panel from the television set. The panel runs the
    entire width of the bottom rear of the set. There’s no need to
    remove the access panel for the lamp. That’ll come off with the
    panel. There are 14 screws.


    2. Remove the projector lamp. This may be unnecessary, but (a) it
    let’s you see your target (the color wheel) and (b) it just seems
    like the safe thing to do. It’s easy. Just unscrew the two brass
    screws holding it in. It’s on the right side of the TV. The
    screws won’t come out, just pull them out with the whole unit by
    pulling on the handle and sliding it straight out. Carefully store it
    somewhere safe.



    3. Remove the panel on the left side by removing two screws holding
    it in place. Carefully slide it and the attached PC board out a few
    inches until cables stop you. You won’t actually need to remove
    any cables from this board to get at the color wheel. (Of course I
    removed most of them the first time.)



    4. Carefully note how the power cable is positioned in the set, and
    the route it takes out the back. Once you have done that, pull the
    power cord out of it’s notch in the bottom of the case.
    It’s blocking the next part that has to slide out.


    5. Remove the center panel. Remove the two screws in the bottom that
    have larger heads than the rest. You don’t need to take off the
    regular sized screws that fasten the back panel to the base.
    They’ll all slide out together. Remove the top two screws that
    hold the panel to the plastic case.



    Center panel. The two screws on the bottom have
    larger heads than the rest. Remember that these go here. There are two
    more screws on the bottom that hold the vertical panel to the base. No
    need to remove them. If you do, things get a bit floppy.


    6. Slide out the center unit slowly, just a few inches and take a
    peek inside as you do. It’s a snug fit, so you’ll need to
    ease out both the top and bottom at the same time. Some things to
    notice as you do this. Look at how the projector lens is fitted inside
    a foam sheath. You’ll need to put that back later, so take a good
    look.


    There are a few cables on the left side restricting it. You’ll need to unplug these:


    • blue/brown two-wire power cable. You’ll need to unplug this from the main set.

    • blue/white cable connecting to the left side. Squeeze the plug to
      unlatch it and remove it from the center unit that you’re
      removing.

    • Sensor switch on the right side. Unscrew this from the tv case bracket.



    This arrow is pointing to two of the cables.
    Follow the brown/blue one to the other end to unplug it. Right behind
    this arrow is the white connector for the white/blue cable.




    Here’s one of the screws that are different. Remember to use the smaller brass screw here later.

    Now you can slide the center panel and all the parts behind it out
    of the television. If you didn’t remove any cables on the left
    panel, you’ll have to swing everything over to the left to clear
    the television.


    Note: Steps 7-9 are removing the bad color wheel. I
    suggest doing these steps carefully, as if you were going to need to
    use this color wheel again. You never know if you may need to reverse
    what you’ve done.

    7. Locate the color wheel cover. It’s got a small green
    circuit board on top of it with a black/blue wires connected to it.
    Remove that plug. Also, and this is the trickiest part, remove the two
    cables coming from the color wheel. One is a copper-colored ribbon
    cable. That will just slide out easily. The other is a cable with two
    white and one blue wire. This one is tricky to remove, so you’ll
    need to ease it out. I pried it out with a jeweler’s screwdriver.
    DO NOT just pull on the wires.

    Note: A reader made the following excellent suggestion to
    avoid breaking the white connector on the end of the blue/white/white
    wire:

    Having replaced quite a few of these colorwheels as a
    Samsung service tech, I have found that you do not have to remove the
    blue/white wire from the DMD board (avoiding the risk of damage to the
    optical engine) There is enough slack in the wire to route it around
    the cover when removing it. You can then unplug the wire from the old
    colorwheel and plug it in the new one (the plastic tab will break off
    the old connector when you go to remove it,but it will still fit snugly
    on the new colorwheel) Using this method I have had no problems reusing
    the old connecting cable



    Color wheel cover view from top-down. This part has three screws and slides straight up.



    8. Unscrew the color wheel cover. There are three screws holding it
    in place. One to the rear of the set, and two in front. The one to the
    rear is tucked way in, so I just unscrewed them and carefully left them
    in place and pulled them out with the cover. Slide the cover straight
    up, exposing the color wheel. As you do, note where the color wheel
    wires go — out the gap in the front.


    9. Remove the bad color wheel. The color wheel is held in place with
    three screws. Remove the screws and the color wheel. The color wheel
    may be stuck in place with the foam tape, but that’ll give with a
    small tug. To remove the wheel cleanly, I lifted the front edge and
    slid it toward the front.


    10. Insert the new colorwheel. It can be tricky to do this without
    touching the wheel, or bumping the wheel into the case. (This is where
    you need the nerves of steel). Once you get the proper angle, it will
    slide into place. Don’t force it — remember, this thing
    needs to spin at 9000 RPM, it’s probably pretty sensitive. At
    first, I tried to put it in place with the screws already in the holes.
    This didn’t allow me to slide it in properly. Lesson learned: put
    it in without the screws and then hold the screws in place with
    tweezers, if necessary.

    11. Put the color wheel cover back on with the wires out the space
    facing the front of the case. Make sure the wires reach their
    destinations, and screw in the cover. Three screws. Attach the three
    connectors. The metal contacts on the ribbon cable face the rear.

    12. Put all the guts back in place. Slide the center unit back in.
    Without touching the projector lens, open up the slice in the foam so
    it wraps around the projector lens, and slide it in the rest of the
    way. The center unit can only go in on it’s track, so again,
    don’t force anything. Connect the two wires you removed on the
    left side. They should only go in one way. Did I mention don’t
    force anything? Screw the sensor switch onto the bracket on the right.

    13. Put the power cable in it’s slot. Just the way you noted on the way out.

    14. Slide the left PC board and panel back in place. There are two
    screws that hold it in place that you screw in now, the rest hold on
    the access panel.

    15. Put the projector lamp back in place and screw it into place. I forgot to do this both times.

    16. Put the access panel back on and screw it in (14 screws)

    17. Plug in the television, say a prayer, and turn it on.

    Update

    A number of people have commented that after changing the color wheel,
    their red and blue colors are reversed. This is a different color wheel
    and a newer model set than is documented here, but, some report that by
    removing a jumper on the color wheel, the problem is resolved.

    The jumper is as shown in this picture, below the yellow/white label.

    Thanks to Tref for the picture!



    Thanks Jangro

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