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Contact the manufacture, it is most likely going to be covered under warranty. If the knob is not removable, (check for a set screw on the side of the knob it will take a small allen wrench) Then the thermostat (temp controller) will need to be replaced, if it isn't a style that you can calibrate.
the cold control is probably stuck closed. if you have a meter, you could pull the control out to check continuity. if nothing else throw in a thermometer, standard freezer temperature is +5 to -5 degrees F.
The fans are controlled with a clixon that has a cut in at 5 degrees, and cut out at 20 degrees. If the unit is running and the fans are not comng on then I would have to say you are out of freon. But your condensor fan could be running and the compressor NOT be running which could be a problem with your compressor. Find out if your compressor is running by taking an amp draw. If compressor IS running then you are low on freon. If the compressor is running and your evaporator coil is cold and your fans AREN'T coming on then your clixon is bad.
Freezers have a sensor that is referred to as a "Fan Delay/Defrost Terminator". It senses the temp during the defrost cycle. Usually, when the evap temp reaches about 50 degrees, there should not be any frost or ice on it. This device terminates the defrost cycle. It also keeps the fans off so warm air is not circulated. When the evap gets to about 20 degress or so, the sensor switches on the evap fans. If the fans are not coming on, either the sensor is bad or the evap is not reaching the proper temp to cause the sensor to turn on the fans.
Hope is helps to clear up some things and point you in a direction as to what might be going on.
Most all commercial freezers have some sort of fan delay/ defrost termination device. Commonly called a "Klixon" (pronounced clicks-on). It is a device that is attached to the evap. It's function is to terminate the defrost cycle when the evap reaches a certain temp, say about 50 degrees or so, to ensure there is no build up of frost/ ice on the evap. It then allows the compressor to run, and cool the evap down to a reasonable temp., say about 20 degrees, and then let the evap fan come on. It prevents overloading the compressor during a high temp condition, and it also prevents circulating warm air left from the defrost cycle. I believe this device is most likely your problem. With no air circulating, the box will no cool down.. I have seen them burn and/or slhort internally. They can come apart. too. I would look here for that problem. the True manufacturing website does not give alot of info on this piece of equipment, such as a wiring diagram but manuals are available.
Check this out and let me know how it comes out.