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Do you have to hook up the red switch wire to make the stereo work? I get a red light on the base of the deck but the actual face plate is not illuminating
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Did you check fuse block in the car as well as the stereo fuses?
When the face plate is down does that model have any indicator lights in the rest of the deck to see if it is getting power? My old ken wood used to have a red light that blinked behind the faceplate.
Question--Do you have the wire on the back of the car stereo that says lights,k hooked up to the light circuit on the car or have you got them hooked someplace else?
1991-92 Jeep Cherokee Stereo Wiring Constant 12V+ Red/White Switched 12V+ Purple/White Ground Black Illumination Blue/Red Dimmer Red/Black Antenna Trigger Purple/Orange Antenna Right Front Front Speakers 5 1/4" Doors Left Front (+) Gray Left Front (-) Yellow Right Front (+) White/Red Right Front (-) Brown/Red Rear Speakers 5 1/4" Rear Deck Left Rear (+) Gray/White Left Rear (-) Brown/White Right Rear (+) White/Black Right Rear (-) Brown
The yellow wire is the constant wire, you need to find the battery + wire which will be red and hooked that to your deck, the red wire is the main 12v wire and the yellow wire is there just to use a little bit of power to keep the memory i yur deck, i.e. the time, cd position stuff like that
red is usually ignition switched power from the fuse box and the yellow is continuous power to the deck. blue with the stripe is usually a voltage output from the deck to control the on/off of an external amplifier. If you hook the deck up and the memory stations do not save after vehicle on/off cycle of the ignition swap the yellow and the red wire and they should work. One is power all the time to allow the deck to store memory and the other is the main power to the unit.
Red is power to from ignition to cd deck Yellow is direct power from battery to cd deck to hold the memory. Black is ground Blue is only needed if you are hooking up an amplifier. I always suggest buying a wire harness quick connect system for $5, then you won't have to cut origional car wiring. If by chance you are taking the original wire route, then go to installer.com to find which wires on the car are for what.
make sure the speaker grounds are connected to the speaker ground wires on the deck and not the "chassis" ground. also make sure both power wires are hooked up to a power source. the thinner power wire is supposed to be a switched source (like the ignition key or an accessory switch) that turns the unit on and the thicker one is a constant source which actually powers the deck once the switched source is turned on.
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