Hooking up a new 8" woofer speaker to my amplifier
I had my Pioneer amplifier installed with 4 new speakers and simply love the sound it puts out. My vehicle, a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer LS, came with a factory installed 8" subwoofer in the rear. I want to hook my amplifier to the new 8" speaker that I have just purchased. Can I use the amplifier to do this without purchasing a crossover? If so, how do I hook the crossover to the amplifier so I can get my bass back in my vehicle. Thanks.
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First you need to verify that there is nothing wrong with your amplifier. Simply swap speakers around and see if the fault follows the faulty speaker or stays on that channel. If the speaker is at fault I would hazard a guess and say, that the woofer has burnt out and is now a high resistance. This would then increase the total impedance of the speaker circuit and make the horn speaker sound the way you described. This can be verified with an ohm meter. Total impedance should be about 4 to 8 ohms. The only real remedy is to replace the faulty speaker woofer. Sorry
There are a couple different ways you can wire up this speaker as it is a DVC speaker. Duel Voice coil, it has two + post and two - post. A dual 4-ohm voice coil subwoofer with its coils wired in parallel presents a 2-ohm load to your amplifier. Since an amplifier produces more wattage at a lower impedance, the parallel connection ensures you'll get the most output from your amp.
Series wiring lets you configure multiple woofers to one amplifier at an acceptable impedance. Wire both coils in series for an 8-ohm impedance, and then wire two 8-ohm subs together in parallel for 4-ohm total impedance.
You can wire each voice coil to a separate channel of your amplifier, if you prefer not to bridge your amp. Independent wiring is a nice option if you're wiring two DVC subs to a 4-channel amplifier - one voice coil per channel
Depending on what you are hooking it up to i.e. a mono amp or a bridged four channel amp. I can tell you post to wire exactly if I know how you want to hook it up and what ur hooking it up to.
Hate to say it, but possibly a blown speaker. To check this, do the following -
Insert headphones into jack to verify for sound there.
Unplug unit and open rear panel to reveal speakers.
Remove leads from woofer.
Using a multimeter, set to OHM (horseshoe) to lowest setting.
Apply red(+) and black(-) to speaker leads. Meter should read at least 4-8 ohms of resistance.
If no reading, then voice coil is blown.
If no meter available to use, the use a 9 volt battery by applying direct connection to speaker leads in an off-and-on fashion - You should hear a "click" sound come from speaker. If no "click," then speaker is blown.
If click is heard, and resistance on meter is correct, then the amp circuitry leading to the woofer may be blown = repair needed.
FIRST OF ALL --- THERE IS A FEW THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE HOOKING UP A WOOFER LIKE THIS ---- IS THIS A STORE BOUGHT POWERED SUB WOOFER ? DOES IT HAVE IT'S OWN CROSSOVER BUILT INSIDE ?? I WOULD GUESS IT NEEDS TO BE HOOKED UP TO A SUB WOOFER OUTPUT FOUND ON THE BACK OF THE IN DASH PLAYER .. THE WOOFER NEEDS TO RECEIVE ONLY LOW FREQUENCY AUDIO WHICH MOST OF THE NEWER CAR STEREOS PROVIDE BY AN RCA JACK ON A SHORT WIRE COMING OUT OF THE STEREO ... IF YOU TRY AND TAP IT TO FULL RANGE SPEAKERS THAT ALREADY ARE CONNECTED TO AN AMPLIFIED SIGNAL THE SOUND WILL BE DISTORTED ....... POWERED SUB WOOFERS NEED A LINE LEVEL INPUT WHICH IS MUCH LOWER THAN SAY SPEAKERS ALREADY RECEIVING AN AMPLIFIED SIGNAL. POWERED WOOFER WILL ALSO NEED TO HAVE A 12 VOLT ELECTRICAL CONNECTION AND A GROUND WIRE TO OPERATE THE AMPLIFIER BUILT INSIDE. IF YOU HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH THIS TYPE OF HOOK UP I WOULD STRONGLY RECOMMEND SOMEONE WHO DOES [ CAR AUDIO SHOP ]
:) the rca jacks have to be connected to an amplifier,, their signal is too lay to even light a bulb.. you have to connect it to a car amplifier and then from the amplifier to the speakers..
Just so you'd know,, once your deck plays and you hear music on your speakers through your normal speaker wires,, RCA jacks work..
Ok you have 4 jacks,, 2 subs and 2 front.. These should connect to a preamp,, which takes 4 inputs and allows you to equalize or adjust how the music should sound,, now from the pre-amp,, it runs to an amplifier,, thats powers the subs and another that powers the speakers.. Some amps have 4 inputs so you can use one amp for your subs mids and heights..
for example a basic music system is
1 cd player 1 pre amp 1 amplifier (4 inputs, 4 channel out)
you bridge 1+2 and connect this to 1 12" double coil sub woofer
the next 2 connect to 2 mid speakers example "rockford or ev 5 / 8 " and 2 tweeters for heights..
Thats a kicking tricked out basic car audio system,,,
What ohm is your sub running at. Sounds like your runnig your amp to low an impedance causing it to thermally shut down, when it cools a bit it turns back on. Either that or you have wires crossed somewhere. Check your wiring and make sure the load of the speaker does not fall below the rcommended ohm of the amp. Usually 4ohms mono and 2ohms stereo
Hello, I have a 2000 ES300 and while the body style is different believe the newer model still has the rear deck mountedsub-woofer that you are referring to. The process of removing this speaker would start off the same as if you were going to replace the third brake light also located in this housing. Using a flathead screwdriver work your way around prying/popping up all four corners of the speaker grill covering the speaker that have the retainer clips. Once you disengage the clips work/maneuver the grill up and towards you gently and it should slide out. The bulb for the third brae light will be attached to this speaker grill, disconnect the snap wire from the bulb and you should have a clear visual of the speaker and the four bolthead screws securing it. Remove these screws and your almost home free. The next part might be slightly more difficult. If the speaker s simply connected by a clipped on wiring harness, just detach.On my 2000 ES300 i have the pioneer system(Not Nakimichi) and the 2 wires (one black, and one red) are soldered directly to the speaker. You can take a soldering iron(maybe a battery or gas powered one unless you have an inverter) and remelt the solder to remove the wires or you can elect to simply cut the wires. If you choose to cut them make sure you cut them as close as possible to the soldered joints so you have plenty of wire left to install the replacement speaker.Then install replacement either soldering or using crimp clamps and reassemble. ( Note if you simply want to add a aftermarket amplified sub-woofer you don't need to remove the sub-woofer out of the housing. You can tap into the wire leads and run it directly to the amplifier. Just cut one of the wires leading to the stock sub-woofer so it doesn't also come on and potentially blow while the radio is on. This will also prevent any bass humming when the radio is shut off but the aftermarket amplifier is still on because once one of the wires to the stock sub-woofer is disconnected or cut it breaks the circuit. Hope this helps.