When faucets in house are turned off, or when toilets are flushed, water line to fridge starts shaking and slapping poly line behind said fridge. It lasts for approximately 7-10 seconds. My concern, beside the nerve-racking sound, is that something will eventually shake loose and leak.
My Question: How do I make it stop?
Note: I did install a bleeder valve in my attic plumbing, thinking that would "burp" air out of the system, but that didn't do it.
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open the tank to your toilet, flush it, then mark the water line. if the water drops then replace your flapper. if you have a ballcock type float it would be good to replace that with a fluidmaster fill valve. if the toilets dont seem to leaking then locate the water meter outside. open the lid and look at it and locate the indicator needle. if there is water running you will see a needle moving and if that is the case than there is a leak. next turn the water shutoff in the house off. look at the meter again and see if there is movement. if it is than your leak is on your service line. if it stops moving than good news no leak on the service line. if you still cannot locate the leak then let me know and i will go on about how to locate a difficult to locate leak.
Sounds like you need to replace the water solenoid valve, located where the water line connects to the back of the fridge, usually behind the fiber cover at the bottom.
These valves are damaged by dirt in the lines. Dirt and scale roughs up the valve needle and seat, and leak more with lower water pressure.
You can get valvesand valve kits from appliance part stores, Home depot or sears parts via ordering. I highly suggest an external in-line filter that will stop this forever, and suppliment the internal filter for taste. If particles are damaging this valve, it is also slowly causing damage to the other water valves in the bathrooms and toilets. If you have to replace valve washers a lot, then a whole house filter would be worth it.
Sounds like you have sediment built up in the pipes, and maybe the furthest faucet is the gathering place. Take off each shut-off valve at furthest faucet and connect a water hose that flows into nearby toilet bowl. You can buy garden-hose-to-1/2-pipe adapter at hardware. Open water so it flushes the line into toilet bowl. Then clean out valves and reassemble shut-offs and grundfos connection. Remove faucet aerator and flush line up to faucet. Install new aerator.
I always think I have heard it all at times and then a story like yours rolls in....Please call a plumber,I know what I am doing and you are not going to be able to solve this online. The faucet and toilets are never plumb together much less 2 areas as you have ...so please call a plumber this time...Please rate and this is not Inappropriate.Thanks jj505. Any other ?s please ask. Are you in Ga.30097
I had a customer a few weeks ago that had the same problem. When the water heater was installed they crossed the supply lines. They had the inlet as the outlet. Esentially, the water heater was plumbed in backwards. Also there could be a miss piping somewhere in the house but it would probably be near impossible to find it right now without tearing up foundations. Also check that the faucet is not plumbed backwards as well. Especially if this is a single handle faucet that you are referring to.
No problem on this one. Turn of the valve to the toliet just above the floor next to or behind the toilet. Go turn on a outside faucet. Is there still pressure? Wait a minute if it seems like there is still pressure to let the line pressure go down, what this is just water in the line left over. If the water stops on the outside faucet then the water is off. If you do not have a outside faucet then use a tub or a sink faucet. (if it does not stop then see part 2)....Keeping the toilet valve off remove the supply line from the toilet where it connects. This sould be the larger end. Is it is a flex line this should make it easyer. If it is a hard line like copper tubing, stop and go to the hardware store and a buy a flex supply line. This will make your job a lot easyer. After you remove the part of the line that connects to the bottom of the toilet then find a bucket place the end of the line you removed from the toilet into the bucket ( you may have to place the bucket at an angel to do this. Now turn the water valve at the wall for the toiel back on and drain the line. You may have to empty the bucket a few time but the line sould drain out.
( Part 2) If the water to the house is still on you need to go to the water meter and turn of the curb stop, this is going to be the valve inside the meter box ( if you do not have a well) and are on public water. You will need a cresent wrench, sometimes these valves can be hard to turn so you may have to use a little force. If you are on a well the you need to find the valve in you well house and turn it off. If you need more help or this did not solve this problem the repost and I will check back in a little while.
hi as you are probably aware ,when the toilet is flushed the water pressure to the shower is reduced so you get hot/scalding water unfortunatly there is NO easy solution you could put a needle valve in the supply to the toilet and with trial and error by turning the valve down reach a compromise between the time it takes to fill the flushing tank and the shower temp the only real solution is to feed the toilet and shower off independent supplies but in most houses this is impractical if not impossible silk090
Remove the light shield and there should be screws under it. Remove the air tower in the back, it snaps in and there is 2 screws behind that as well to remove the damper housing that sits behind the light. Also not sure what your model is but some models have 2 air ducts that run up each side, they come out after the light shield is removed by sliding foward and then pulling down. After the screws are removed in the upper plate the light assy will snap out and there is 2 quick disconnects on the wires.