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On a silicone carbide ignition system, the design is simple. The ignitor glows and changes the resistance in the circuit. When the resistance is right the gas valve will open and you will have ignition. So what goes wrong? The ignitor gets weak and no longer opens the safety valve. Here is a video which show how it works:
Hello- Gas ranges have ignitors that light the burners. The lower burner is accessable by removing bottom pan in oven. Ignitor is held in place by two screws. Connector is plugged in behind bottom drawer. Check resistance of ignitor - should be 4ohms or higher. Sometimes they just break. New part available thru local app. parts. 50-75$. Be careful installing new part- ceramic ignitors are fragile. Take your time- toughest part is reaching in to do work. Hope this helps.- Thanks- ED
First clean the terminals at the control and check for tight wires at the incoming terminal block. Check the neutral wire for a good conection. If the ignitor reads less than 3 amps it does not have enough resistance to open the gas valve. Turn the gas off. Put a clamp on amp meter on the broil ignitor wire. Turn the broiler on. If less than 3 amps.replace the ignitor.
F2 Oven over temp - exceeded 590F with door in unlocked position or 990F with door locked - If actual temp condition occurred, look for welded relay contacts or high resistance connection or any cause in the oven temperature sensor circuit
F2 Note: Also see fan thermal switches - Indicates that oven is over temperature in one of the following modes within either a cooking or clean mode of operation. · Control senses oven temperature above 650 degrees F with the door circuit in the unlock mode. · Control senses oven temperature above 935 degrees F with the door in the locked mode. · Stalled cooling fan or airflow problem.
· Look for welded relay contacts. (Heating elements on in off mode). · Look for open thermal switch in lock motor circuit. Switch is normally closed and will open if area overheats due to fan not operating. Look for cause - fan thermal switch not closing, fan stalled, etc. · Look for high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit due to high contact resistance (poor terminal crimp, deformed terminals, loose connection) or intermittent solder joint on control or intermittent oven temperature sensor.
Have you checked the broil element resistance? Unplug the range and remove the back cover. Remove the wires from the broiler element and place a meter across the element posts. See if the element reads close to a short (It should read very low resistance if good). If the element reads infinite (open), you will have to replace the broil element. If the readings are normal, you may have a bad Electronic Range Control (ERC) board. The board controls the bake and broil features of the oven through two separate circuits. Usually a relay on the board goes bad. Since the ERC is considered "non-serviceable", replacement components can be hard to find. For this reason, the entire assembly is usually replaced. The ERC runs around $100 for your range, while the broil element can run anywhere from $35 to $60. Now...as far as your self-cleaning function is concerned - most electric ranges use BOTH elements to super heat the oven cavity to about 700 - 800 degrees F. With one of the elements not working, there's a good possibility the self-cleaning function will not work either Double check the items I mentioned and let me know if this helps you.
If your BAKE function works, but the BROIL does not come on, more than likely you have a bad igniter on your broiler. The igniter is a glow bar type that comes in two basic shapes. One is round, and one is square. The round type igniter should draw between 2.7 to 3.2 amps of current to be considered good, while the square type igniter will draw 3.2 to 3.7 amps. The reason it is important to mention this is because, it is not uncommon for an igniter to still glow. and be bad. The igniter is designed to draw the required amount of current in order for the gas valve to open. Once the valve opens, you have ignition. This is a designed safety feature that prevents free-flowing gas from accumulating without ignition. An easy way to check is to remove the broil cover and turn the broiler on to see if you have any activity out of the igniter. If the igniter does not glow at all, a resistance reading can easily determine if the igniter is bad. It should read avery low resistance if good. If the igniter glows, but the gas valve never opens, take a current reading. If you can provide me with your EXACT model number (located somewhere around the oven door/lower drawer opening, or on the back of the range) I can track down a part number for. I hope this information is helpful to you.