MY RANGER'S IDLE DOUBLED WHILE DRIVING THE OTHER DAY. NOW,EVERY TIME I START THE ENGINE,IT'S RACING AND WON'T SLOW DOWN BUT WHILE THE TRUCK'S MOVING,IT DRIVES NORMAL 'TILL I STOP AGAIN.COULD IT BE THE IDLE SPEED SENSOR OR WHAT??? THANKS IN ADVANCE. HOW SAFE IS IT TO DRIVE THIS WAY,(TEMPORARILY),?
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Is this a stock radio if so buy a new one,most of the time theres a loose wire like the antena witch by the way happens alot its loose and not pushed all the way in or a poor fuse i learn its mostly a loose wire or ground...
Ford Code EntryInstructions
Once the unit has been turned on the display will show 'CODE - - - -'
Press preset [ 1 ] repeatedly for the first digit
Press preset [ 2 ] repeatedly for the second digit
Press preset [ 3 ] repeatedly for the third digit
Press preset [ 4 ] repeatedly for the third digit
To save the code press the [ 5 ] key to accept.(Sometimes this is [ 6 ] key to accept)
The set should now operate.
It sounds like either your ECU (Electronic Control Unit) is going out. This causes Fuel/ Air mixture problems, and a loss of power. Or you have a faulty/ clogged PVC. (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) I would start by replacing the PVC, as it is cheaper and faster. If it's not, you would have only spent $5 or less. PVC problems are only apparent under load, and usually result in a loss of power and performance, but don't hamper the vehicle from idling. If it was your ECU you will hear the engine choke when you rev it up, even in neutral and it most likely would have problems idling. ECU problems also have a tenancy to make RPM gauges bounce around. However, they usually make the RPM spike upward, instead of down, but it is still possible. And lastly, a faulty ECU is supposed to trigger the check engine light, so if you don't have one on, try the PVC.
This is unbelievable. I need help with obtaining some assistance with replacing the timing belt. I tried to post a relevant header but somehow it was transformed into a problem with some speakers.
I think this site kind of sucks.
Solution: Go to the library and get a manual. This site offers nothing useful and then attempts to offer some "premium" service. It's probably an attempt to charge for services that really don't deliver. So my advice is to look elsewhere for assistance because you are unlikely to find it here.
the problem may be a buildup of carbon or fuel varnish deposits in the idle speed control valve (also called the idle air control valve or IAC valve). The cure for this condition is to clean the valve with some aerosol throttle cleaner or engine top cleaner. disconnect the air ductwork from the throttle body. Start the car and run at about 1500 rpms spray the cleaner directly into the throat of the throttle body. Turn off the engine and let sit for a few minutes. Then repeat the process a couple of times. if that does not work, you can remove the IAC and clean it by spraying into the two holes on the underside of the valve. If not, then you need to replace the valve.If that does not work , then check for a code. the throttle position sensor may be the problem. you can have it scanned at an AutoZone or other parts store.