Plastic hose connection to water valve is leaking.

To connect the water supply using a plastic hose kit to the MBB1954G UNIT, you can follow these steps:

Turn off the water supply valve under the sink.
Remove the old hose from the water supply valve and the back of the refrigerator.
Attach the new plastic hose to the water supply valve and the back of the refrigerator. Make sure the hose is not kinked or twisted.
Tighten the fittings with an adjustable wrench.
Turn on the water supply valve and check for leaks.
Here is a video tutorial that demonstrates how to install a water line to an ice maker or refrigerator using a 5 foot hose with 1/4 inch compression fittings. INSTALLING ICE MAKER / REFRIGERATOR WATER LINE - using 1/4" compression hose (youtube.com)

There is a solenoid valve and a plastic water hose that connects to the ice maker. Looking at the rear of the unit you can see where the plastic tubing connects from behind the air shield into the solenoid. A second hose connects from the solenoid to the water inlet connection on the wall. The connection to the wall is probably OK because it would leak with the ice maker off if it did,

It is the hose that goes up from the solenoid through a hole at the upper right top that is the most likely culprit.

Look for water coming from a failed hose at or near the solenoid valve connection where the ambient heat is the highest. It is the heat of the hot air that deteriorates the hose. Replace the hose.

After ten years many are known to fail?

"Protect floor before rolling filled refrigerator out from the wall!" The weight will scar the floor from the wheels including hardwood floors!!"

Hope this helps?

The Ever- So- Helpful Diagnostics Mode -----
Getting into the Diagnostics Mode:
Press the LOCK and START / PAUSE buttons simultaneously and hold for 5 seconds.
The unit will beep once
Press the POWER button once, and you are now in diagnostics mode.
Pressing the START / PAUSE button sequentially advances the machine through the various functions you will want to test.
Start and stop each function by pressing the LOCK button.
A strong word or caution: DO NOT ENERGISE THE HEATER PLATE function (ER) without water in the tub or the heater will burn out.
The tech sheet containing all fault codes, test values, and a schematic is located behind the lower drawer at the back wall.
Exit diagnostics by pressing power off.

Q: F1 ERROR. The unit is beeping, both drawers are flashing F1 and won't stop running.
A: Your appliance has experienced the ubiquitous F1 flood error. The only way to stop the beeping is to remove power. Your course of action depends on the next step. You need to look BEHIND the lower unit drawer. Remove power, then open the lower drawer all the way, and press those plastic tabs (down at the sides, along the bottom and just below the round buttons)- inwards. Now slide the drawer out a couple inches more. You can now see behind the drawer.
Is there water in the catch pan? If no, the Mains Filter Board beneath that plastic cover in the back is bad. It thinks it's flooded while in fact it is not. Replace it. (PN 525959P) It is also remotely possible that one of the wiring harness is faulty.
If there IS water back there, you need to find where it's coming from. Usually, the fill (PN 526836) and drain hoses (PN 527137) are NOT at fault. Go into Diagnostics Mode, and operate the water fill valve (FV), and look for leaks at the valve and along the fill hose as the tub fills.
(You'll want to remove that large plastic cover in the back to see the valves and hoses coming from them. Lift the drawer off its rails and set it off to the left if there's space for it. Upper drawer, set it on top of the bottom drawer).
Operate the drain pump (P2) and look for leaks in the drain line. If no water is seen leaking from those sources, go on to the Lid Motors and the Link Supports.
First inspect the link support (that white plastic rod that spans the tub service lines). They typically snap in two at the mid span point. If it's snapped, there's your problem. Replace it with the updated link support. (PN 528437) Also run the Lid Motors (LD). As they transition up and down, do they respond strongly, or do they sound weak and labored? If the motors are in a white plastic case, you have the old motors and they will need replacing soon anyway. When they grow weak their ability to pull the seal down strongly is diminished (PN's 528112 Top, and 528113 Bottom)
Should you get an F1 error code on the TOP UNIT ONLY, it means that the LOWER UNIT has experienced some failure in the Water Heating Circuit. You will need to test those components to detect what has failed. Get out the trusty schematic and your multimeter!

I am not a repair person but I have this exact washer, and this problem all of the time. You probably have sediment blocking the water from coming through the cold water hose. Turn off the main water supply valve where the hoses are connected, then disconnect the cold water hose from this end ( not the end connected to the machine). There probably is a little plastic filter with a rubber gasket on the inside of the end of the hose. Remove this filter and gasket, noting how it is in there so you can replace it exactly the same way. Clean out this little filter in sink to remove all sand, dirt, sediment. Replace filter back in end of hose and connect back to water valve. Turn main valve back on. This should make a huge difference in the stream of cold water that comes into your machine. I have very hard well water with a lot of sediment and need to do this procedure about once a month. However, we just got a filter attached to our well holding tank so hopefully this will catch the majority of sediment before it goes through the house and into my washing maching hoses!.
Good Luck!

The plastic line has cracked at the water valve. See this page item 804:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=206380&diagram_id=21040526#d21040526

It is a matter of turning off the water supply, removing the attaching nut and compression fitting then cut off the line... transfer the inner sleeve nut and brass outer compression ring to the new hose then reinstall the line onto the water valve. If it is leaking at a water filter connection the repair is the same as above.

Turn on the water supply when you finish.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

Turn off the water supply and check for cracked or broken water tubing/line. Make certain that there is teflon (white) tape on threads connecting water inlet hose from shut off valve at wall to water valve at refrigerator. If there is no apparent damage to tubing or hose, then your problem may be with a water valve solenoid that is not seating/closing tightly. Replace the water valve assembly, if necessary.

Note: If plastic tubing is damaged, etc., you can splice the tubing with a "coupler" and/or more tubing purchased from Home Depot or Lowe's.

Good day,
The water supply starts at the dispenser, runs thru the door to the door's bottom where it connects to a swivel connector.
From there it travels under the machine and back into the fresh food compartment to a reservoir located behind the crispers where it is chilled.
It comes back out and travels to the filter system if you have one, and from there to the water valve located on the back rear of the machine.

One of the plastic lines or a fittings is leaking.
It's a look-see repair. Should be one person drawing water, while a second should be looking with a flashlight.

Water should not be draining from your pool filter at all. There should be one hose that connects to from the filter to the pool and another hose that returns the filtered water from the filter to the pool. It is a continuous loop. If water is coming out of your pool during this process, either you don't have a hose connected properly or the hose is leaking/cracked.

It's the conection to the valve, thats you'r problem. onece the line come out of the conection, it's next to imposable to put it back in. fact-seals brock. never realy seals back around the hose. I had the same problem only at the base of the door. eazier to fix then where you'r is. I had to replace the nuckle. you have to change the valve. it's the only way to stop that leak. hope this helps

If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check the following:
Air-gap device: The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube:There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


Inlet spout:Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During spin cycle only:
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Look at the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Also, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make.


If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it.


Pump: If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.

Main tub seal: The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


Outer tub:The steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, develope a hole in some way. If this happens, you may have to replace the outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.