Board Clips I am trying to unclip the 4 white connectors that connect the main board to the convergence board. I know that these unclip from the right side and fold up to the left. My problem is that I cannot figure out how these clip together, and or where to squeese to release.

Brother says it should not be oiled but having 14 of those, I know that it has to be done but a Brother technician will not do that. OILING the machine may cause F05 speed sensor error. See how to solve it under this label.

U need to remove the complete front plastic panel. 3 screws on the top (2 lower the handles, 1 at upper right. Remove 1 screw at the center bottom of the rear panel. Remove both left top/ bottom panels (1 screw each) then the horizontal bottom left panle (2 screws). All the balance is fixed with clips.

First undo the 2 clips under the machine than carefully unclip everywhere. Front panel have 2 wire assembly attached to main board. Regular one is easy to remove. To remove the flat one, send down the upper part of the attchment on the main board.

Don't use reg. thin white sewing machine oil, it evaporate. Use SAE 80 (differentail type) oil or something like taht. Lubrificate all 4 lower shaft supports, rotary hook gears and central pin (from the top, under the bobbin case). Then lubrificate all the upper shaf support and especially all the needle bar mechanism. U need a good light to see upper needle bar support. Lower needle bar support support is the most critical point.

In my experience it's easier to just pull the chassis out and flip it over. The white connecters can be disconnected by applying sufficient force pulling up, you can also use a screw driver or pen. Place the pen under the connector flat and pull up on either side to apply even force to the entire connector. Goodluck and remember to mark the convergence connectors 1, 2, 3 so they go back where they belong. They are the little white connectors that are identical.

If you are asking about that TV that has convergence board on lower front and it has hose type connection wires then remove screws of aluminum heat sink sheet that holds D board and convergence chips and take it off from TV front, hose type connection wires has enough length, approx 2 feet, to bring that board in front of you for soldering work.

If your TV is Sony KP-51HW40 as question shows its model then it has D board at rear, convergence chips are mounted with aluminum heat sink on D board, unplug connectors on D board but do not unlock plastic lock rings that hold hose type connection wires as that will help you to replug connectors in right connectors.
remove screws on D board that holds it with plastic chassis underneath, unlock few locks on its sides and take it out.
Hope that info will help you.

Hi,
If the diagnosis is correct (and I believe it is) your part number is correct and can be purchased for about $130.00 online or at your local appliance parts retailer. It is very easy to replace.

{{{UNPLUG THE FRIDGE!}}}

Pull the fridge out away from the wall so you can get behind it. As you're looking at the back of the fridge, you'll see a panel at the top left. You can't miss it. It has about 15 screws holding it in place. Remove these (use a 1/4" nut driver or socket) then remove the panel.

Now if you look closely at the board and take note of the connectors, you'll see that it's fool-proof... which means that after you take them off, you can NOT get it wrong when you put them on the new board. <-- Now THAT'S good news, huh?

OK, you'll see 3 connectors on one end of the board and they are all white. You'll see 2 connectors at the opposite end, one is white and the other is blue. Remove the 3 white connectors first, leave the other 2 for last.

Next, look closely at the board again... you'll see 4 white plastic tabs sticking through the board. These are the stand-off clips that hold it in place. Look very closely and you'll see that these clips have a "locking" tab on them. Use the tip of a knife to push the tab in while pulling out on the corresponding section of the board. Do this on all 4 corners and the board is out.

Now you should still have the 2 remaining wire connectors (the blue one and the white one) still on the board, remove them now. Pull out your new board, install the 2 connectors (blue and white) first then mount the new board onto the plastic stand-off clips, then connect your 3 remaining white wires connectors. After that is done, plug in the machine for test. You should hear the compressor start within 5 seconds or so.

When you re-install the aluminum cover, make sure that you connect that "flying" green ground wire to one of the screws used for the panel. It's necessary.

All in all, about a 20 minute job.

Hope this helps!
SG

its pretty simple

1. remove 4 screws in the back of phone.
2. remove back cover
3. unclip lcd connector from main board
4. remove main board
5. reassemble with new flip

It may be a malfunctioning circuit board controlling the buttons on the front. If it's under warranty ship it back to Philips; if not markgladding on this site sent me the following advice. Standard disclaimers apply and any questions or comments should go to him.
-------------------------2nd hand advice begins-----------------------------

If you open your monitor you will find a small circuit board with a row of microswitches mounted on it. This is the circuit that's causing the problem.

To open your monitor you will need to remove the stand (one plastic cover that unclips by hand and 4 screws that can be removed with a philips screwdriver). This will then reveal two additional countersunk screws that need to be removed.

You can now remove the front cover. There are 4 clips at the base of the cover that can be removed by hand. You then need to pry the cover off, starting at the corner next to the power button. This is really quite stiff and you need to use a reasonable amount of force. Don't worry about the loud cracking sound as each clip along the side releases.

Once the cover is removed you will see the circuit board with the microswitches staring you in the face.

This board needs to be replaced but if you want to fix the problem immediately here is what I did.

Disclaimer - Proceed at your own risk from here on in.

Plug your monitor back into the power and reconnect to your PC. Make sure it's on and still showing the same problem.

The circuit board unclips and there is a 7 pin connector that also can be unclipped. Remove the board and undo the connector. You don't need to switch off the power.

After the board has been removed for a few seconds, the on screen display that was permanently visible should disappear.

Now I temporarily disabled the malfunctioning button by bending the associated pin on the connector 90 degrees and then reattaching the connector.

How do you know which pin is associated with which button. Trial and error. Simply bend down a pin, and reattach the connector. If the problem persists, unplug and try the next pin.

When you've found the correct pin, straighten the others and reattach the connector.

Clip the circuit board back in, making sure the connecting cable is clear and doesn't get pinched.

Reassemble your monitor and you're good to go.

The next step is to order a new circuit board from Philips. These should be really cheap (I hope) and you now know how to fit it yourself.

No usually on the panisonic its the Ics they hardly ever blow resistors as well , but its possible. the wire bridges stay connected to the board on the left one with the Ics and they seperate on the right side. just slide something under the right side of the bridge so to speak and lift up they will come un hooked and stay attached on the left board. you can check the resistors by lifting one side out of circuit by unsoldering then check the resistors for resistance. they have to be lifted out of circuit on the one end though or the readings wont spot a open resistor.

Don't separate them, Just take out the four screws that hold the frame for the A and D modules and flip up the whole thing to get to the bottom of the A board where you can unsolder the 7001 and 7002 IC's. It's less work and less chance of breaking parts. Also, make sure you have genuine Sanyo parts. Generic parts don't last. There is a substitute for the part that is supposed to handle the heat better but it costs two or more times the price of the original parts. I just finished this job and it takes about two hours start to finish including checking all 12 of the blue resistors which can cause an IC failure.

You have a problem with the STK convergence modules. They're on the center circuit board attached to an aluminum heat sink that's about 8" long and 6" tall. You may be able to recreate the problem (hour glass effect) by gently moving the heat sink (which the modules are connected to). This gives the hour glass effect on the picture and the advanced convergence screen. This is an indication that the modules pins aren't solidly connected (meaning soldered) properly. Remove the circuit board (not sure what you mean by white clips, but you should be able to take out just the convergence board) and clean the old solder off & resolder the modules pins to the circuit board reconnected the board and then retest by again pushing on the heat sink. The "factory" job was good enough for 3-4 years but the heat (and these modules do create a lot of heat) and stress created from repeated use eventually takes it's toll, weakens the pin connections and our problem occurs. take the appropriate cautions working around the high voltage of the set & use a non-conducting piece of plastic to push the heat sink when doing tests.
If soldering doesn't help, then the modules have died and need replacing. Don't buy the $10 cheap ones. Most of them have an upgraded version that is stronger. Also look for any burned resistors in the vicinity of the modules.
Best of luck, hope ya fix it.

E90 indicates a communications error between the user interface board (control panel) and the main circuit board. If you take the top off the machine (power off first!), then stand in front of it and look at the front left you'll see the main board and a blue multi-stranded cable coming out of it and going into the control panel. 99 times out 100 this is the culprit, if there's a poor connection at either end then this generates E90. You need to remove the control panel (screws behind soap drawer and plastic clips along the top), disconnect the blue cable, give the connector a bit of a squeeze with your pliers to tighten the connection, do the same to the other end on the main board, refit everything and away you go....hope this helps...yes I used to work for them