My drain hose split and I don't know how to open machine to change it I add a pipe and 2 brackettes but its leaking so I need a new hose

replace any soft hoses.
collapsed hoses cause water flow constriction
.that increases temp fast

to bleed air out of the system . if no air bleeder as such
with heater on full .-engine running
loosen the bypass pipe for the closed thermostat till only coolant flows no air bubbles
check if
the engine cooling fan spinning fast enough
the water pump in good condition
the interior directional flaps motors or actuators working

Hi,

Although a few modern washing machines can operate with the drain pipe at any height, most machines will drain the water as soon as the drain pipe is placed below the machine water level.

The simplest solution for your problem would be to ask somebody with some handy man skills or hire a plumber to add a 2 inch PVC pipe to your drainage pipe which extends to a point behind your washing machine & then points upwards, making sure it is long enough to be at a higher point than your machines fullest water level.
This should be a relatively inexpensive alteration & will ensure that water does not drain unless the machine is on its drain cycle.

Please let me know if you need any further assistance.
Best wishes,
Graeme

The first part is that you need to check at the following for leaks.

1. Check for leak from the inlet due to poor water connection. check leak at the inlet valve.
2. Check for leak from the tub.
3. Check for leak from the drain pump/valve or the drain hose.

The second part is not clear but a connection for water and an outlet for drain is needed.( make/model not seen.)

Disposals rust out and need replacement.

Check a couple things first.
Run paper towel around top of disposal to see if moisture is leaking from around sink basket or dishwasher hose connection. Then check where tailpiece connects on side of disposal.
If these places are dry, the disposal has probably rusted out.

I wrote instructions for disposal replacement:

When I worked apartment maintenance, we replaced disposal with same brand disposal.
That way we didn't have to change out sink basket or change pipes.
How to change disposal: Disconnect p-trap and tailpiece going into disposal.
Rotate connector disk clockwise that holds disposal to sink basket.
Before installing new disposal.
Attach electric wire to new disposal.
Attach dishwasher tube to new disposal. Knock out plug inside dishwasher opening.
Push new disposal up into place, and attach to old sink basket with new connector disk.
Use new connector washer.
Re-assemble tubular pipe.



If this is your home, you want new sink basket that comes with new disposal because it looks shiny and new.
Buy a tub of plumbers putty also.
Remove old sink basket and clean opening.
Put finger-size roll of plumbers putty around sink opening, and then push new strainer basket into plumbers putty.
Tighten basket from below, wipe away excess putty around sink opening.
Install new disposal as described above.

Tips for tubular pipes:
When taking apart tubular pipes, start at p-trap and take apart as few pieces as needed to do job.
On image below loosen both upper and lower nuts, trap falls loose, and then work on disposal.
Any tubular drain pipe that gets moved while working under sink needs to be disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled.
Metal pipes have rubber washer >> always use new rubber washers.
Plastic pipes have plastic washers > plastic washers can be cleaned and re-used.
Plastic washers have flat side that goes toward nut, tapered side away from nut.



When reassembling tubular pipe, we use rectorseal on washers and joints.
Apply good amount on washer just before pushing washer in place and attaching nut.
Apply rectorseal where lower p-trap comes together.
Rectorseal will ensure tubular drain pipes won't leak.


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I had the same problem. The insulation on the coper line was loose and the pipe was exposed. The water was condensation , not water from the drain.

so easy you will kick yourself. Tilt machine sideways and follow the pipe to where it connects to the drain pump. Remove the clamp and pull the pipe off. Once off, order a new one from an appliance shop. Its not imperrative if you put a pipe on from another machine but make sure the pipe end size is the same.(it must not be loose or the water will pour out when pumping)

Most likely have a bad water pump. If not you have a bad tub seal. Just hope it's the water pump. It's located just under the front. It's white and has either 2 or 3 hoses coming from it. Some models have 2 some have 3. No problem to replace and cost around $40.00. Good luck

Check the following:

* Loose or mis-positioned hose clamp at the drain spur connection

* Rotted or brittle hose

* Split hose

* Cracked joint at the drain spur connection or split drain spur fitting

check the pipe the drain hose goes into. if this is blocked the water will overflow out of it. or there could be a split in your drain hose

2 ins is rather small and there may also be a partial blockage somewhere in the system you are not aware off.
a naughty cure is to restrict the drain hose of the machine so water comes out a bit slower