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Usually there is a short in the system when fuse is blown. Check the cord as sometimes mouse can damage the cord. It is a posibility.
Check power to the electronic board.
Hello - Often when the refrigerator is inoperable and has no LED lights, it is because it could be something as simple as a damaged cord or an issue more complicated that requires the help of a professional. Check that the household circuit breaker has not been tripped or that any fuses are blown. Also, try reprogramming the refrigerator by unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. Wait approximately ten minutes and restart unit. If the fuses are working fine, however issue persists, then the refrigerator may be experiencing some form of a sealed system issue or a faulty electronic control board. At this point, I would personally recommend contacting a certified technician to accurately diagnose the unit to determine the root cause to reduce the risk of unnecessary parts.
No thier is no fuse so what the most likely problem will be a defectice door switch switch so even though the door is closed the switch thinks its open and will not allow the dishwasher to start.
Unplug the wire located at terminal J4 (12v positive) on the control board, and see if you are still popping fuses. If so, then the fault lies between the wire you just removed and the fuse that keeps blowing.
If the fuse holds, and blows when you plug the wire back onto J4 terminal, then unplug the wire(s) at J2. These go to your door heater (used in humid conditions to remove condensation), as well as the interior light. The switch for the door heater is located on front panel, or is at the top edge of the freezer compartment with door open. It is not unusual for this switch to have issues since it gets chilled and moisture condenses on it. If unplugging the wires at J2 allows the fuse to hold, you probably got a shorted heater or bad heater switch. But, pull the lens off the interior light, and check the contacts there as well.
If the fuse still blows with J2 removed, then unplug the connector in the top left corner of the control board. This goes to the control panel on the inside of the fridge. If the fuse blows, replace the control board. If the fuse holds, the replace the control panel.
Sounds like a defrost problem. Check to see if
there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not
defrosting as it should.
possible causes:
bad defrost timer
bad defrost heater (in freezer)
bad thermo switch in freezer
If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice
melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if
is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above
items.
Trying to take the doors off Maytag GC2228EEDB and need to disconnect the water supply to the left door,the connector dosnt
want to budge is there a nack to this??
what's the model number,i don't understand what you're asking,are you saying the fuse keeps popping in the house fuse panel?or the fridge stops running and the house fuse is ok.what is i.e.
Same issue with my 6 yr old Maytag side-by-side model #MSD2756GEW. Turned out it was caused by a faulty circuit board. This circuit board is located in the upper right fridge section. Apparently these boards are sensitive to power surges (which we have here in central Texas from time to time.) When the circuit board is fried, it makes a noise like a fan blade malfunctioning and it stops the auto defrost feature in the freezer from working. So the freezer ices up at the back, and the ice prevents the cold air from reaching the fridge section.
Our circuit board (which we thought was a fan) made ominous noises for a few months. (The noise would last only a minute or so and stop shortly after we opened a door). Eventually we noticed that the fridge wasn't as cold and the freezer had snow in it. Finally the board stopped making noise and about a week or so afterward we noticed that the milk had spoiled and the fridge wasn't very cold. The food in the freezer side pretty solidly frozen, thankfully.
In addition to replacing the circuit board, the fridge had to be de-iced or it would not work properly. I put it all frozen into a large camping cooler where it stayed for several hours. I opened the freezer doors and put table fan and pointed a hobby light which gets quite hot, at the back of the freezer. Within 3 hours, the ice had melted significantly so I could see through the grate at the back of the freezer. This really great technician named Tracy, made a special trip to the parts store to get the circuit board and came back within a couple hours, bringing with him a steamer. He removed the back panel inside the freezer section (the coils are behind there) and used the steamer to melt the rest of the ice before he left.
Tracey, who works for a local appliance repair company, told me that about 4 years ago, Maytag started making their fridges with built-in surge protection, so the circuit boards apparently don't get fried on the newer models as they do on my 6 yr old model. He recommended that we put plug the fridge into a heavy-duty surge protector - which we are definitely going to do.
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