My navagator pads don't go up & down with the weight of the navagator?

A few possibilities:

1. Overloading of the truck (gross weight) or riding the brakes on a descending incline. (Use the lower gears on your transmission to slow you on downward inclines, and do not ride the brakes, especially if you are carrying a heavy load. When going up and down hills with a heavily-laden truck, never exceed your maximum uphill speed when going back downhill);
2. Insufficiently lubricated or bad inner and/or outer wheel bearings. (Check the bearings, and pack or replace as necessary);
3. Brake pads dragging on the rotor. (Lubricate the mounting pinions so that the caliper can self-center on the rotors, and be sure that the pads are properly clipped into their retaining clips. Check for uneven wear on the pads, which would indicate a caliper issue).

Tow package Reece hitch with the right size ball, electric brakes with trailer wiring. Sway bar\'s stops trailer from swaying back & forth. The most important is to find out the tongue weight on trailer. If it\'s more than your Tahoe can handle you will need to put air bag\'s on your rear suspension to help support the weight. You will also need to check the tire load rating on your Tahoe\'s rear tires. You don\'t want a blow out going down the road! Goose neck trailer won\'t work period! Good luck!

Have you checked the height sensor ?

Going to need an in depth explanation of any recent
brake work

I know for a fact, if you paid someone to do it,that is why
you have issues.

I have been at this 48 years & never had one squeak or
one problem from my work.

If you do not remove all rust from axle hub,caliper sliding
& abutment surfaces,pads,both sides of rotors & protect those
parts from further rust,your off to a bad start.
That is not done professionally

You can not install new pads & not machine the rotors

You can clean up the old rotor & put back the old pads,
if you know a few things that need to be done.

The pad quality does matter & the chain store places may
not be the place to go.

You have to bleed the brakes every 2 years or your entire
system gets too much moisture in it & will ruin calipers &
ABS Units.

You also have to do both front & back,not at the same time, but
at least take all 4 corners apart once a year & clean,lube & inspect
or your done. No one does that.They drive until there is a problem

The parking brake system needs the same care

I bet you don't change Power Steering Fluid or Trans Fluid every 3 years.


Repair shop are there to do problems & break down,I live
in a world of preventative maintenance & look for problems
thru out the yea,r on all vehicles

The job wasn't done correctly,that is obvious

Most places don't remove any rust so parts slide
as they should ,nor do they lube anything

I have worked on brakes for 50 years come july & never
had a noise or hot,no issues

When you say changed out,that's what you got
It is called hanging pads,slap them on & done.

You have brake hoses & claipers to consider,parking
function,etc

If they don't release for some reason,you have heat & noise
Sloppy work

Aside from the usual rotating tires to different
locations & balancing ,in case a wheel weight fell off,
you have to check motor & transaxle mounts & front
CV drive axle joints

Assuming you have no real obvious worn ball joints

These issues exist simply because someone just has
to get under the car & start to really apply their skills
& find the problem

If you don't do your own work, you are just sold any number of
services & no effort is put forth to help with the real shaking
issues etc

On the front you go buy a large C-Clamp
& use one old pad against the caliper piston

On the rear you need a tool to turn the parking
brake in while pushing the piston in

On the back you need to open the bleeder valve
to make it easier

You should be flushing your brake fluid on ALL
your vehicles every 2 years

You don't put on new pads without machining or
replacing the rotors & you have to remove ALL
rust from caliper & pad abutments & sliding surfaces
and put anti-seize on contact & sliding points

I checked my clamp --it is a craftsman 4" from
Sears Hardware

On the back you get the small cube from the auto parts
store & choose the side with the two smallest pins
& file flats on the outside of them to fit the caliper
piston. Don't think they make an exact tool for the LS

Ratchet up parking brake in back when done & push pedal
a couple times after beelding with engine running & a helper
to seat pads

On the back the piston notch goes up or the pads won't
go down

Hi ifcope2000,

The inverter in your oven is for defrosting. It works on the basis of weight of the food to be defrost. To use the inverter follow the following steps.

First place the food on the microwave dish and then close the door.
Now press Inverter Turbo Defrost.
Enter the weight of the food using the number pads.
Press Start.Defrosting will start. The time will count down. Larger weight foods will cause a signal
midway through defrosting. If 2 beeps sound, turn over, rearrange foods or shield with aluminum
foil.

Atul

go into the settings or options menu in the navagation screen and hit languages then hit english...u may have to google the words language and settings in japaneese to compare