Question about Frigidaire FEF336BC Electric Kitchen Range

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Frigidaire electric range smooth top with no oven function

My wife heard a loud pop the other night while using our oven.  I don't know the model # of the oven.  The circuit breaker blew and when I reset it the power came back to the range and everything worked except the oven didn't heat on bake or broil.  The oven controls still work but no heating of the elements.  I took the control unit out to find a large portion of the board blackened.  My question is, I obviously need a new control board but do I have other components that may have caused this burnout?  As far as I can see the heating elements are the only other thing in the circuit.  Could they be causing the problem or is the board  the only thing I need to replace.  Also,  where can I buy a board.  It is a Spitfire Controls Inc.  Model # 316207509  SF 5301-S7509-N? Thank you!

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  • dpalmerr1 Apr 02, 2008

    I just had the EXACT same thing happen and was wondering the same thing, if it's just the EOC that needs replaced or if something else caused it? FYI you can get the EOC for 109.74 at myapplianceparts.com, that's the cheapest i've found.

  • vtjessdog Nov 17, 2008

    Same exact problem with Frigidaire model GLEFS77CBB! Everything works, but oven will not heat. Very frustrating since this was NOT a cheap model and is less than 5 years old. I bought all new appliances for my home when we built it less than 5 years ago from Sears. So far have had to REPLACE dishwasher, washer, refrig, and now perhaps oven if not repairable. Sears has the WORST service department that I have ever had to deal with - guess that's what you get for shopping at a big box store.

  • Anonymous Jan 24, 2009

    We had the same problem. On a Frigidaire FEFL77AQH smooth top Range with self cleaning oven.
    After I tried to unsnap the EOC from it's plastic case, and jostled the oven around. It is now working again.
    Maybe a relay got stuck and while I was poking around it freed it self up?




  • kevin laplante
    kevin laplante Mar 26, 2014

    Same thing happened to me yesterday. Looks like I got several more years use out of mine you two did. Still frustrating none the less. My Father has a olive drab Magic Chef double stack oven and an electric stove top original to the house when he built it in the mid 60's. All three still work! They just don't make things the way the use to.

  • Susan
    Susan Jul 02, 2014

    we are haviogn teh same issue and the part number takes me to a Fridgidaire washing machine

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Although you dont have hte model number , that is indeed a correct and valid part number for the control lists for a about $120. since your back there give a quick look at the wiring into the unit, is that ok ??? adn where the burnout is on the control does it appear to have shorted out against the back wall??? perhaps a relay on the board just blew??? i really wouldn't thinkn tha another component was goning to make that go bad, also ck the bake and broil elements for continuity, perhapa wire fell off the element blowing out the control

Posted on Mar 20, 2008

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  • Contributor
  • 33 Answers

I have this unit in my oven as well. In mine the relay welded shut and it won't turn off. It is likely you have a similar problem. Your choices are (a) track and repair the problem on the board, probably the relay,
or (B) buy a new board. They are not hard to replace and you can be done in about 30 minuets or less. A search of the net will find you one.

Posted on Jan 04, 2010

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1 Answer

Loud pop from Range, stove top still works


The pop was a shorted wire.
The short drew sudden over-amp at breaker.
Amps = heat.
Breaker senses heat and trips before wire to oven is damaged, and before the arcing short can cause a fire.
Was the short at the element?
I don't know, but sounds like the circuit board was damaged.
Of course they are putting electronics inside all appliances today instead of old mechanical dial, because it's cheaper or so much prettier... but new appliances more vulnerable to surge, and other electrical failures. Which is true for all 240V appliances not protected by whole house surge protector.
To test element.
Remove element.
Use a continuity tester across the element connections.
If there is continuity, then the element is probably functional.
Use a multimeter across same element, set multimeter to read ohms.
240 Volt, 3500 watt element should be about 16 ohms.
4500 watt about 12-13 ohms
Volts squared divided by watts = ohms
57,600 divided by 4500 watt = 12.8 ohms
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/ohm-reading-for-emements.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

I would guess that the short fried the circuit board, but there is a also a shorted wire somewhere that is still bare and dangerous while power is ON and you are touching oven or stove, unless 240V breaker is GFCI or arc fault, which probably not. Especially dangerous if you are moving stuff around trying to find problem while power is ON.
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h

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OOOPPs - not good , If you saw or heard a pop noise + spark then something blew or shorted.
If the 'loss' was quiet then a fuse or circuit breaker can blow without noise or sparks.
This oven has 4 Heating elements (2 on Grill) 2 inside oven , as you were baking it sounds like a heating element.
As this is a US model I'm assuming you are close to a SEARS somewhere, because they advertise parts made for Kenmore -- try this link http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Evaporative-coil-Parts/Model-867813350/0582/1610510/00007536/00001
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Did someone bump the self-cleaning lock lever? If you have one, make sure it is all the way over to the right. Try resetting the unit by tripping the breaker. Leave it off for 30 secs min and turn it back on. See if that works. If not, let us know and we'll help you further.

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Sounds like your element wire shorted out on back of unit.Try removing back panel and cheak wire on bake element .MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG OR TURN OFF BREAKER.Hope this helped you out:)

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I know you probably have the problem fixed by now, but I had the same problem with my frigidaire range just the other day. Loud popping sound, range/clock controls do not work. Stovetop still works great.

I took the back off the stove and got to the circuit board. Unplug the connector and the five spade connector wires. Once you do that, remove the 4 screws holding the entire assembly in place. The circuit board(s) are held in the housing with retaining clips on the housing. Use a small screwdriver or similar to pull back on each clip to pry each side of the board out. Once the board(s) are free, look in between the two circuit boards and you will see the problem. The larger, 20 amp relay is the culprit. It blew traces off of both boards making it almost impossible to repair. Without having a schematic to go by, I went ahead and decided to just replace w/ new boards as opposed to trying to solder the traces. I have not checked on prices, but brief web searches didn't return any results. The board part # is SF5301-S7509-N

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