Hi, I had notice my color going on my tv so I decided to open it up and give it a dusting.. I then noticed that my red and green crt's display a picture inside the lens.. but the blue only has a blue light and no picture.
so i decided to go to paint shop and My blue is pretty much gone
but i still get blue things.. like bellow the "get assistance" button
is blue and white..
So my question is .. Should there be a picture in the lens?
and if so is there any tests I can do to see if its the tube or something else
I'm well aware of the high voltage. risks.
Would you think they are all fine then? ..
Posted on Mar 24, 2008
The coolant in the blue tube has no doubt congealed to an oatmeal like consistancy. Did you notice things like blue halos around things for some period of times. change the coolant. that should correct the blue. this is a common thing for that model as well as all TVs. Blue and green has this happen, Red seems to not have the same trait.
Posted on Mar 20, 2008
your blue crt may have lost its phosphorus. was the face of the tube white or gray when you looked into it(power off) It should appear white. If grey the phosphorus has burned off, and you will need a new tube. Post the numbers off the tag on the tube I have a source for used CRTs and I can check on the availability of a used one. new would be about 400
The glass diode is a zener diode you should get continuity in one direction and no continuity in the other direction. If there is no continuity in either direction the diode is open. If you will give me the board location number for that diode I will post the phillips part number for that diode.
1205 on the crt panel is actually a surge protector the part number for it is 242254943675 It is a 1.5KV surge protector You will probaly need to contact phillips/magnavox to get that part as partsstore doesnt have a reference to it . Hope this helps, if you need anything additional let me know
From my understanding they are probably all good as a surge would usually break the glass or at least crack it. If there is no evidence of discoloration , i would say its probably good. Did you check the transistors on the CRT circuit board? Sounds like that would most likely be your problem if the tube worked by switching circuits. Check the transistors out of circuit to see if they are open.
you could have a short in the blue tube. switching the crt circuit will verify wether its the tube or not.
Thw white wire for focous is the same on all the boards. You should try to change the boards without changin the wires that way you will be able to test the tube properly, cause the problem may be in the power supplies going to the tube. Usually if you remove all the ties holding the wires you can switch the green out with the blue and put the blue on the green. Thats the best way to test the tube as well as the power supply to the circuit board too.
I will check that code in the morning at work and i will also cross reference the tube by Chassis, They should have one and if so its 135.00 comes with everything yoke convergence rings, lens and coolant chamber free shipping. I will let you know tomorrow.
yes we are set up with a secure paypal account on the site, and we also have flybacks.we do have all 3 tubes for your model, so if you need the blue let me know.same with the flyback if you need it i will post the number. however if its still lighting up the tubes the flyback is most likely good.
no dont need your email, If you want the blue CRT just go to the following link. You'll be prompted to register for an account fill in the required info . you'll find the CRT under the phillips/magnavox parts section. The rest is all automatic it will add it to your cart and then just go through the checkout either paypal or credit card is accepted and they,ll ship your tube.
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/
That site that you got the tube from will send instructions on how to install safely, and they always leave the red lead in the tube and they discharge them so you will only need to slide the new red wire into your tripler when it arrives. They always provide clear instructions. Let me know how you make out or if you need any further assistance.
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I should also add i have tried all the video inputs with the same effect.
wow that was quick.... Thanks.. I'll look around for the coolant..
I'm guessing not something you can pick up at the local store heh..
I'm still currious though .. if the tube is blown. would I still get the blue light?
ok so I drained all the fluid out and gave it a cleaning inside
it was really dirty .. and the fluid is somewhat yellow ish.
but still liquid.. I'll still look around for some fluid. I put the fluid back in ..And if I turn the screen dial so the light as dim as it can get and turn the focus down .. I can see A outline of a stick man I made in paintshop..very flickery and dim.
Thank you , you were right. ..but i screwed up big time.
after I had it working .I went and added more fluid .
and some went to the green tube side.. and I lost that tube I guess all the red tube is now showing a orange light ..
SO WITH THAT. heh.. your best to remove the 2 boards bellow
as well before doing any kind of fluid change on your own.
the center board can be moved over to the side . while your doing it.. Also tape up the wired so they stay in groups. red wires are closer to you from looking at the back I think I'll let my tv sit for a day or so before trying to plug it back in but I think I'll have to either chuck it or take it to a shop.
thanks for your help again.
thanks for the second reply.
after scewing up so much with something so simple I've decided to take it to a shop .. they said it will cost 100 to get a estimate. but thats fine now.. I'm also sure I hooked up the ground wire
to the wrong location ..there is one header on the highvoltage side that a ground wire goes to the coax in .
I pluged that cable ground into another header on the second board (center board) .. that turns out to pluged into that huge black thing with 3 red wire things that goes to the tubes. After correcting that problem I get 8 volts from that spot. But im sure I made something work to hard or something.. So now it looks like i'm looking at tons of work.. ..could explain wy my red went orange as well . The green tube does work I switched the cables around from red to green ect.. and the picture shows up on the green tube but then the red tube seems to be dead / shorted out .. If I switch it back then the green is once again dead.
what really suxs out of all of this I had it working again just to go screw it all up...
I wont be able to bring it in for a week or so .. but i'll post back the damage I did and what went.. incase somebody else in the world makes the same mistake.
would the entire center board be really expensive?
the one with the flyback i beleive its called... And is there any place I could actually order it?
Ok another queston.. On the bottom of the tube
there is a board.. I removed it and tested the diodes on it
There is one coming off pin10 and has a blue band on it
And with my meter I get no continuity through it .. Usually I would expect to get .5 one way and nothing the other.
So I removed it ans the same thing. however .. All three tubes
show the same affect with that diode . Should I get .5 on that diode?
I tried seaching the entire boards for another one with a blue band but cant find anything . only green bands and they give me the ..5 one way
its one of the glass diodes and i see no burning inside of any of the three of them .
=) thatnks ..
the board number is
lchdr crt 3135 013 3261
I also had a burnt resistor didnt look burnt
but the other 3 boards gave 22k accept the green board was
0.. replaced that And got my green back =)
THE LOCATION OF THE DIODE IS 1205 ..
all three boards give the same the result
Also the blue is now having a lighting dance at the bottom
of the tube if I crank the focus .
And for the life of me I cant remember if my red was
actually orange looking or red.. heh.. cause it still looks
orange to me.
Anyways thank you once again the ppl at this site
are extremly helpfull .. thats actually what made me think
to test the resistors was from another post .
oh sorry one more thing before I ask you more things.
the diodes that are burnt. the marking on the back
to not have a symbol of a doide and do not give the direction
of current.. Is it possible you would also have that information
.
it looks like from pin 10 the band is closest to the pin for those diodes
would you think they are all fine then? I get no ohms through them. but maybe im not suppose to.
I have not tried switching the blue board for the green board yet.. ill try that now ..to see if that fixes my blue problem.. I think im extremly close to getting it working again ..I think im back at the start now with the blue screwing up.. its there but blury and hallow effect if i crank the focus constant hissing at the bottom of the tub and a constan bright spark ..if i move the board around the spark thing moves as well.
ok I was going to switch them yesterday .. the only probllem i found was the thick white wire ..that goes to the focus dial.
to remove that wire It looks like I have to unsolder the entire header for the tube .. .. Or would it be safe to leave that wire in place on both boards and just switch all the other wires?
Hi , Ok I switched around the boards.. and the same
dance.. at the bottom.
With the focus cranked..
I'm only about 5 mm away from the crosshair looking normal
but if I leave it on to long the blue light starts to flicker alot.
How much can you get the tube for including your time and cost. if its actualy the tube... A local shop said it would cost
100 dollars for a quote .. so i'm thiniking that might not be bad. seing im so close now with your help...
In the service menu I have error 17 00 00 00 ect.. if thats any help ...
If you need the tube number .. let me know I just have to find it heh. looks like i have to take it out to find it maybe.
Ok that sounds great. Will I be paying you through paypal?
my convergence rings are also full of fluid i think as well.
as they turn 360 in both direction extremly freely
what started all of this was prob fluid and I had grounded out
my flyback (the thing with the 3 red wires going to it) connected
the ground wire to a header that is pretty much directly connected to one of the legs.. when the ground wire was pluged in the wrong spot..my blue light would go extremly dim.
and thats when i think my red turned orange. but im so blinded by the light now ..I forget if the light was actually orange looking or suppose to be red. ..
So with that I might be bugging you for a flyback as well if possible. that is... .
Thank you .. do you need my email to set up the transfer?
I'll give the tube a shot first.
oky all done.. and now i'll go into silence untill my part arives..
I think i might have problems taking the red wire out.. without dying.=) .....Anyways.. Thank you so much for your help up to now.
hello got the tube today.
Not so good.. so far..
At first it was just a a blur on the screen. about 4 inchs wide on the screen in the lens about 2 inchs ..
I put some brand new fluid inside.. and now its a bit clearer.
but its still only displaying a 4 inch bar on the screen and same
within the tube... I switch back to my old tube and i get
a full screen a tad out of focuse with lots of sparks at the bottom.
So my question now is ..? Is the tube i got doa.?
or is there some settings I might have to play with to make it wider? .. I also changed the lens thinking that might of been the problem...
thanks..
Ok this will prob be one of my last posts to this thread.. And i have to say THANK YOU So much for your help and pointing me
to this site http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/ If anybody at all is worried about service ect.. don't be A++++++ support and extremely helpful . They go totally out of there way and time to help you.. It seems like a cheesy plug for the comp.. but it is not At least my experience with them was totally awesome And fast shipping as well ..You get a deal on the product.And quick support... Try phoning any repair shop lol.. you will be told to bring it back so they can charge you even more.... anyways had to get that out.. ..
I have a Philips 55" rear projection TV. There are three (3) lens in the back red,green ,and glue. The green and blue have "ALGEA" growing in them. I have some RCT coolant, but I am reluctant to just pull the lens out. open them up drain and clean, fill and then replace them.... My question is, if I pull the lens are there any addjustment that will need to be made when I reinstall the lens? or can I just pull the lens and replace them no problems.
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