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You may have a speaker connected that the amplifier cannot drive. Your receiver is compatible with speakers with 6-8ohm rating, however, even though your speakers may be operating within that range they may also have low sensitivity.
With the receiver turned off, disconnect the power cord for a few minutes, reconnect and then power it back on. And while you're behind the unit, that would be the convenient moment to inspect your speaker terminals...check for cracks, evidence of arcing and any stray pieces of strand wire that can touch the chassis or other terminals. If any of those conditions exist then that can a root cause of the problem and will have to be repaired.
You must also ensure that all of the chassis vents are not blocked and the unit does not have another device on top of it that also generates heat as well. In any event, keep it cool.
After that, enter into your speaker setup menu and adjust your crossover to a higher point for whichever speaker you had the failure. This will help control the overload condition, if in fact, it is being caused by your amplifier ability to drive your current speakers.
If after all of the above is performed and the condition still exists, try speakers with compatible ohm rating but higher sensitivity.
3000 watt. Really? You possibly have a blown tweeter. If your "3000 watt" amplifier really pushed 3000 watts to them or some much lower number with a lot of distortion (square waves) you will kill speakers (especially tweeters). Or maybe it's just missing the jumper between the two inputs on the back or a bad speaker cable. Do some more diagnosis. Swap things around. Use LOW volume to test.
Before doing anything else swap the speaker connections over to make sure that the problem is in the amp and not the speaker / speaker cable.
If that doesn't solve it then it is most likely an internal fuse blown on the amplifier circuit board - they are little tiny glass ones, obtainable from most tv repair shops, but it is important to get the right power rating. Also some of these fuses are 'quick blow' (go instantly there is a fault) others are 'slow' or 'time' blow - take a second or two before they actually blow - make sure you get the right one (timed usually have the letter T next to the power rating)
I'm not sure what kind of an answer you are looking for. If you are not qualified to do some soldering rework and ready to spend some money (could be as much as 50$) for parts, you better look for a professional service that in most cases will cost as mush (or more) as your receiver.
If you are still reading then here you are. This is a common symptom of a blown hybrid amplifier IC caused by shorting speaker output while it's powered on. There are two protection circuits for amplifier output, Overload and DC output. In your case, most probably, DC output protection is the one that shuts down amplifier to prevent further damage. Find schematics (service manual). To confirm this, look for amplifier inputs connector, measure DC DET. signal, normally it should be around +4.85V. If right after power up it goes down to almost 0V, then it is for sure a blown output on a Hybrid IC. Check whether receiver shuts down with that cable unplugged. If not than get ready to do some rework.
There are two big Hybrid amplifier ICs, one that outputs two channels (usually front left and front right) and 3 channels (for the rest). One of the outputs (if not more) one one of them (if not both) is blown. In most of the 5.1 Pioneer receivers 2 channel IC is PAC010A and 3 channel one is PAC011A. If you want to get original parts and will find those for less then 40$ each you are lucky. There are however cheaper replacements from SANYO, those you can find for around 10-15$.
Find schematics, unsolder resistors one by one that connect AMP outputs to DC detection circuit on each IC and check which one is blown. There are 2 for 2 channel one and 3 for the other. Usually if one output is blown all others on the same IC are blown.
There could be a chance that only one channel on IC is blown, if you want to fix it you still need to replace whole IC. Also, instead of spending on new IC you may want to sacrifice one working channel (center for example) to output the blown one (so you'll get 4.1 :) ).
Yes, you need an amplifier, since the "levels" of the sound-output from each device (TV, CD-player, cassette-player, Sony mini-disk player, turntable) are not sufficient to physically move the "cones" inside your speakers, to push air around, to produce sounds.
You need "watts" of power to push air, while the devices produce milli-watts (watts/1000) of power.
Also, the amplifier is also a "decoder", electronically processing the input to produce "5-channel" (left, front, right, back-left, back-right) surround-sound output.
...OK, firstly crossovers are normally in the speaker encloures themselves so this should not really be in this catagory and secondly, give us some more info. Amplifier brand and model number. Speaker Brand and model number, any ratings of watts or ohmage...
It's like sayin "light blown, need a new one"
two 8 ohm speakers in parallel is 4 ohms.
if series 16 ohms.a high resistance will just produce less power.
too low a number can activate the speaker protect,or blow the amp.
radio shack sell wall mounted speaker controls,but 5 watt max.
the best thing is to run 2 amplifiers.one for in ,2 for out
speaker a and b on the amp parallel the speakers.
if you run 2 sets of 4ohm speakers,the amplifier load will be 2 ohms,and overheat the amp.4 8 ohm speakers,gives a 4 ohm load
Onkyo offers access to manuals at their web site. HERE is a link to the receiver line.
Personally, I'd connect the speakers to main left/right. The subwoofer to subwoofer out. The Go VIdeo unit to VCR/Video 1, the cable box to Video 2 and the video output to the Sony TV composite input. No need to connect the TV audio out to the receiver since the audio feed comes from the cable box.