Question about Mitsubishi WD-62525 62" Rear Projection HDTV

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Flickering blue screen problem

Hi Neals!

I wanted to thank you for your solution post. It has been utmost valuable to me. We already spent $75 for some doofus repair man to come look at the tv, and he didnt even open it up!! He decided the tuner was busted and that would cost some $1k to fix. (mind you, he didnt sell new tv's)

So with your post, and lovely pictures, we opened up the tv and found that we had the same problem. We could only get to the power board, the other 2 boards were WAY too difficult to unplug and get to... though we did get a sideways look at the caps and they *seemed* ok.

The circuit board is now at the shop to be soldered because we dont have that skill.......... Hopefully that fixes the problem since it fixed yours!

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Glad it was helpful! I had researched quite a bit before I started and realized there was a real lack of detailed info for the wdx2x25 models so I figured I would take some photos and post while I was at it.

If fixing the PWR board doesn't do the trick, getting the other two out is not as bad as you might think - just tedius. The V26 Chassis Replacment manual (different than the main service manual) has reasonablely detailed step by step instructions to disassemble. Let me know if you need it and I can email.

Good luck!

Posted on Mar 20, 2008

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I finally got around to dismantling the TV. This is no mean task. The chassis is tethered to the rest of the set my over a dozen wiring harnesses and a few of these cannot be disconnected near the chassis but instead require removing the “right support” near the air duct and taking the shield off the lamp ballast. Once the chassis assembly is out, it is a further significant task to disassemble it to get at the various PWBs (POWER, FMT and DM) having the suspect caps. I’m sure reassembling everything will be a fun job!

I have not yet had a chance to fix and reassemble but I wanted to post this no as I’m not sure when I will get around to it.

I did find six of the fourteen known-problem caps to be visibly bulging -- both 3300s and two of the four 1000s on the PWR PWB plus two of the four 1000s on the FMT PWB (see photos below). Ironically of the four 1000s on the DM PWB, which I have heard are the most common to go bad, were bulging and I considered skipping these as the DM it is the toughest board to extricate from the chassis, however I figured I had come this far and I would just as soon replace all twelve 1000 uFs as the parts cost $0.23 and I really never want to have to do this again.

If I had to bet, the two 10V 3300uF caps on POWER board, which were actually leaking black goo, are the actual culprits, but with four of the 1000 uFs also bulging it is probable only a matter of time until they failed as well.

Here is the POWER PWB with the known-problem caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61 and C9A62) highlighted:
a99678f.jpg
here's the FMT PWB with the known-problem caps (C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27) highlighted:
7826ab5.jpg

and the DM PWB with the known-problem caps (C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4) highlighted:
a158dce.jpg
Here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A52 and C9A62) on the POWER PWB:
bb3e69c.jpg
76dcd23.jpg
9e2c246.jpg
And here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C8F19 and C8F27) on the FMT PWB:
55cd11f.jpg
1a03490.jpg

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