Question about Bosch 24 in. SHU43 Built-in Dishwasher

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Water stains on some glasses

I live in an area that has extremly high hard water .We have an iron remover and a softner but some of my glasses still come out with a white stain on them that cant be removed!!! Is it the glass or am i doing something wrong with my dishwsher

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  • Sandy Piesko
    Sandy Piesko Mar 31, 2008

    film on glasses and flatware

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If the glasses are old or the softener has been allowed to run out of salt a few times the glasses have become etched. When hard water has soap added, the hot water and soap precipitates some of the hardness (limestone - what cement is made from) into particles and the dishwasher shoots this around in the dishwasher and "sandblasts" everything. Once the glass is etched you have to replace it. In future, a. never run out of salt. b. wash good glassware, crystal and fine china by hand.

Posted on May 25, 2009

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Clean the build up in the dishwasher

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

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The problem is hard water. www.dishwasherfilter.com has aproduct to solve this problem once and for all. It filters the water going intoyour dishwasher and removes the hard minerals that leave those spots. It isvery affordable and even has a money back guarantee. You will love the way yourdishes look with this product.

Posted on Sep 18, 2011

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2 Answers

What should my hardness level be


Water is the universal solvent. It dissolves some of almost anything it comes in contact with. Calcium and Magnesium are VERY common elements which combine readily and are commonly known as limestone. Limestone dissolved in water is what makes water hard. Water hardness is measured in grains; one grain hardness = 17.1 ppm limestone. Rain water is approx. 2.5 grains hard. Most lake water is 6 to 8 grains hard. 11 grains is Very Hard water. 30 grains is Extremely Hard water. Most people are choosing a brand of water softener at around 15 to 24 grains hardness... they're tired of the stiff towels and scratchy bed sheets.

You can likely get your water hardness and iron content tested for free at any place that sells softeners; just take a water sample in. If you want to know who the knowledgeable ones are, go to wqa.org and find a Certified Water Specialist near you.

Personally, I love soft water and would have a softener at any level harder than lake water BUT you should also know that I'm a perfectionist who gets 'em wholesale.

(Iron has nothing to do with hardness. Iron is a staining element that can leave rust stains on your porcelain at, as low as, 0.3 ppm)

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Cabinet style water softeners (GE, Whirlpoool, Kenmore, Sears) are very inefficient at removing iron. They are not designed for water with high iron content such as yours. I might suggest setting the hardness level up as high as it can go (100gpg). Indications that water softener resin is getting fouled with iron are exactly as you described. Rusty water the day after a regeneration. You may need an iron filtration system before the softener so all the water softener has to do is remove the hardness.
Here is a link for an iron filtration system that works with air. Very simple, works very well.

http://www.water-right.com/residential/wholeHouseFiltration/impressionIronSulfur.php
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We have a summer cabin up in Minnesota on a lake on the Measbi Iron Range and the iron content of our water as it comes out of the tap is 240 times greater than the EPA allowable maximum. If we install a...


Hi,
Water softners will remove approx. 90% of the iron from the water...if this is acceptable then you are okay with the Culligan...if not then you will also have to install an iron removal system in addition to the softner.
Also check around with your local plumbers, as many will install a water softner at a gereatly reduced cost from what the franchises will charge you...and they have just as good a systems and often do a much better installation job.

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Fill your iron with white vinegar and let it steam until empty.. face down on a towel on lowest steam setting.

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I have had customers that have complained of this. I my area it is usually related to hard water a iron in the water rather than being the fault of the washer. The washer and the clothing is just the place that it is most noticable. For these customers a water softener has solved the problem. You should get your water checked for hardness and iron it may be the problem. Another thing that it could be, is if you have iron piping in your house. Rust from inside the iron piping can flake off and stain your clothing. Just a few things that you can check out....

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The first place that I'd check would be the small metal screens inside the openings on the water inlet valve. They can get really rusted, epecially in areas with hard water, so I would recommend removing the water supply hoses and take a gander at the screens. They can sometimes release the iron oxide into the wash water and cause brown stains or blotches on clothing. Hope this helped and best wishes.

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Norwex Descaler is the absolute best thing I've found for hard water build up on any surface, including glass shower doors and shower/sink fixtures. When I moved into my current house last year, the bathtub and shower head were disgusting! They were white with years of built-up hard water residue. Repeated application of CLR and a ton of elbow grease just couldn't get it off. When I tried Norwex DeScaler for the first time, it removed ALL of the soap scum and lime in the FIRST application.

This stuff is enzyme based - free of hazardous chemicals and enviro friendly. The enzymes in the DeScaler actually eat the soap scum! I just spray it on, wait 5 -10 minutes, and wipe off with my wet microfiber cloth (also from Norwex). It's incredible. It works better and faster than CLR, or any other chemical alternative I've tried. It's fume-free and can be used by people with chemical and environmental allergies.

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