Question about Jenn-Air PRG4802P Gas Kitchen Range

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Convert JenAir PRG4802P to lp

I am looking for the orifices that fit on the burners to convert to lp. I have the ones for the ovens.According to Maytag these parts are no longer available. Are there other options?

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SOURCE: How do you convert the oven to lp gas on ge xl44 range

if this is a new stove need to change the pin in the regulator ,
then need to replace the stove top orifices from gas to l.p.
check under the stove for pieces they tape them under there by the regulator -- that how i found mine under my new jenn air
check the stove companies web site for a users manual also

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: jenair oven valve knob

In less than 6 years of normal use, 4 burner control knobs on my Jenn-Air free standing gas range, Model JGR8875QDS, have either broken or melted.
 
If you want to continue to buy Jenn Air knobs, no problem - several suppliers will be glad to provide them for  $10-15, each (USD). Whirlpool's part number for the factory Jenn Air knobs is 74009148, and you can get them from repairclinic.com (#1035396), or PartsSelect.com (#PS2086597).

If, however, you want to try a different set of knobs, hoping to find some that are less prone to break or melt, then it gets a lot more complicated.

Jenn Air/Whirlpool will be no help; they will tell you the only knob that will work is the Jenn Air OEM knob. Parts suppliers won't help you either - no specifications or interchangeability data exists - and they are unable or unwilling to take measurements.

I can tell you the following 3 knobs will work on your Jenn Air range, model JGR8875QDS. By "work" I mean they will fit your burner controls, operate the burners just like the factory knobs, and the markings on the knobs for "Off" "Lite" and "Hi" will be in the correct positions, similar to the factory knobs. (Exception: The last knob listed has markings somewhat different than the Jenn Air knobs.)

The following knobs do NOT look like your factory knobs - all three are made from black plastic rather than the (fake) silver metal look of the (plastic) OEM knobs. What I cannot tell you is if the following knobs will be more durable than the factory knobs - but then it's hard to imagine how they could be much worse.

-------- Burner control knobs known to work on the Jenn Air JGR8875QDS gas range --------

1. Whirlpool part number 74008850, made for some Amana gas ranges, will fit the Jenn Air. RepairClinic.com calls it part #1035119, and PartsSelect.com calls Item #PS2086316; it sells for $6-7 (USD). You can see a photo by entering the appropriate part number in the search box of either of the two websites mentioned above. The Amana knob is about a quarter-inch larger in diameter than the OEM knobs, but that does not cause any problems. Of the several knobs I tried this is the only one that tells me what it's made from - "PBT" - or polybutylene terephtalate, a thermoplastic which has a melting point of 430 degrees F and a maximum utilization temperature of 330 F.

2. Whirlpool part number 74009094, made for some Maytag gas ranges will also fit the Jenn Air. RepairClinic.com calls it #1035342, and PartsSelect.com calls it #PS2086544. It sells for about $9 on both sites. You can see it here: 
www.repairclinic.com/Appliance-Parts?s=t-74009094-%3d%3d
Like the Amana knob, the Maytag knob is about a quarter-inch larger than the OEM Jenn Air knob.

3. A third knob worth considering is available from AmericanStoveParts.com for $7 each. The front of the knob looks much like their OEM Replica Burner Knob 1104-B (but don't order #1104-B - it won't fit). The knob that will fit the Jenn Air is AmericanStoveParts #1214-025-B. You will have to order it by phone or email because it is not shown on their website. (As of October 2009, none of the knobs shown on AmericanStoveParts.com will fit the Jenn Air.) 

Notice the markings on the 1214-025-B are not quite like the Jenn Air markings, with the "HI" and the "LITE" positions being reversed. Also, the 1214-025-B knob I received did not have the white dot at the "OFF" position nor the white ring around the periphery as shown in the photo of the 1104B knob. The total diameter of the the 1214-025-B is 2" - the same as the factory Jenn Air knobs.

While I don't think the front of 1214-025-B looks quite as nice as the Amana or Maytag knobs, the back of the knob appears to be much more robust than on the others. The extra plastic MAY make this one more durable. 

Posted on Nov 10, 2009

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Do the rangetop burners act OK, Brenda? It's just the oven that's causing a problem?

Go back to the oven burner, right where you installed the new orifice. That orifice should fit inside an air mixture tube, probably stainless steel, leading to the burner itself. Right where the orifice fits into it will be some means of adjusting the air mixture - a sliding window of some sort, whether flat or round. You'll need to loosen the screw holding it in place (DO NOT remove the screw, only loosen it) and turn it so the air opening is larger. Right now you're getting too "rich" a mixture, too much propane & not enough air. Before you close it all up, try the oven again - see if your adjustment worked correctly. If not, adjust it again - this is a trial-and-error process, and it's different for every different altitude and climate.

At some setting, you'll get a nice blue flame with very little orange in it. If you live in a very high humidity area, you'll have much more orange color than people who live where it's very dry, but the flame should at least be MOSTLY blue, and should never be sooty.

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As I recall, the only tools we needed for the top burners were a small wrench (10 mm) and a small flat blade screwdriver. Remove one orifice and put in the appropriate replacement. Then adjust the burners so that they didn't blow out when the oven was opened or quickly turned from high to low (for the simmer burner). The oven and broiler took a bit longer. Several screws had to be removed to get at the orifices. Then the air flow had to be adjusted for the incoming gas.

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those with sealed top burners, which are pretty much the standard today, and the conventional, 'non-sealed' ones.
While they operate in much the same way, their conversion is usually different. There are still a few ranges that use adjustable sealed burner orifices, but most are 'fixed' and must be individually replaced to convert each burner from one fuel to another.

(An orifice is simply a small brass fitting with a specifically sized hole very accurately drilled through it, and, if adjustable, has a provision to change the size of this hole by turning closed a threaded portion).

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