Question about Sony VAIO VGN-TX670P/B Notebook

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How the ?#$% do you get into the case on these?

I have removed the screws, popped the plastics off, but it is still connected down in the middle, and I don't want to force it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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  • John Dean
    John Dean Mar 19, 2008

    There are 7 screws in the bottom, which seems to free the top from the bottom. It is an ultra portable (Super Small) laptop, and does not come apart like all other laptops I have seen. Once the screws are removed the top is free, but something under the kbd area is still attached. I can't seem to remove the keyboard (there is no plastic retaining strip or set of screws holding it in) Is there a trick to removing the Keyboard on this model?

  • John Dean
    John Dean Mar 19, 2008

    The Bottom Panel to answer the question. Sorry, The palm rest is part of the top panel, no separation that I can see.

  • Patrick Michaels
    Patrick Michaels May 11, 2010

    what are you trying to remove? the palm rest or the bottom panel?

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You'll find that there are usually 2 to 3 smaller screws, which hold that top down. Look right above keyboard, for small, sometimes, color or arrow identified screws. that should get you there.

Posted on Mar 19, 2008

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Replace power button gateway sx 2311


Computer unplugged from power, FOLLOW Anti-Static Precautions.

1) Remove the Side Panel.
Viewing the computer from the Front; the Right Side Panel removes. Remove screw, pull Side Panel to the rear of the computer.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883113140

Click on the large main photo.
There are 9 smaller views shown. 3 across, and 3 rows.
Bottom row, click on the photo in the Middle.
Shows Rear view of computer.

Along the back edge of the Side Panel, is a finger pull handle formed out of the Side Panel. There also looks to be two screws. One above the pull handle, one down towards the bottom.

2) Remove the Front Bezel.
Click on the Middle row/middle photo.
Also look at Middle row, 3rd photo. (Photo all the way to right)

There are 3 Black tab locks, formed out of the plastic of the Front Bezel. One towards the Top, one in the Middle, and one towards the Bottom.

If memory serves these tabs are gently pulled to the outside, to release the Front Bezel. Ease the Top tab out a little, and Middle tab.

Start easing the Front Bezel away from the metal framework, of the computer case, a little. Then release the Bottom tab.
Front Bezel should swing, and then come off.

Not your Gateway model of computer case, but this Gateway model shows the plastic Tabs to release,

http://support.gateway.com/s/CASES/3501975/3501975faq6.shtml

The Power On Button is an assembly. The plastic housing of the Power On Button assembly, has a Power On switch inside.
I gently heat the plastic with a hair dryer, moving the hair dryer back, and forth at it.

Once the tabs of the plastic, of the Power On Button assembly, is softened; then I remove the Power On switch.

I have found this ATX power on switch, fits a LOT of desktop computers,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

Nov 19, 2012 | Computers & Internet

Tip

This was a GREAT explanation of how to replace the bellow on the Whirlpool Duet...


This advice is for the Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet FRONT LOADER style washing machines. A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.

I hope you find these instructions helpful and good luck to you.

on Apr 05, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Usb port not working


1.Click on the "Start" button at the bottom of the desktop and then choose the "Control Panel" option. Scroll through the list of menu options in the Control Panel and double-click the icon labeled as "Device Manager." Click on the "Continue" button when your operating system pops up a second window asking you to confirm that you want to continue.

2.Scroll down to the bottom of the Device Manger window and locate the menu heading labeled as "Universal Serial Bus Controllers." Click on the plus sign next to the entry to expand the menu. Right-click on the first entry that appears and then choose the "Uninstall" option. Repeat the process for all of the USB controllers listed.

3.Restart the computer and wait for a new window to appear prompting you to reinstall the USB controllers. Click on the "Install" button and wait for the operating system to finish installing the drivers for the USB ports. Attempt to use the port again.

4.Check the manual that came with your PC and find out what model of motherboard it uses, if the USB port still isn't working. Order a replacement motherboard. Power off your laptop and flip the unit over. Press down the release latch for the battery and slide the battery out of the case. Remove all of the screws on the bottom side of the case. Remove the plastic cover at the middle of the case and then pull out the RAM modules underneath that are connected to the motherboard.

5.Turn the PC back over and open the lid. Pop the plastic bezel above the keyboard off of the laptop case with the edge of the screwdriver. Lift the keyboard off of the case and then unplug the cable running from the keyboard to the motherboard. Set the keyboard aside. Pull out the screws holding the heat sink to the processor at the lower right side of the motherboard. Remove the heat sink and then pull the processor directly up and off the motherboard.

6.Disconnect the wireless network card and the graphics adapter if your model of laptop has them. Set them aside. Pull off the remaining screws holding the motherboard to the case. Lift the motherboard out of the case. Set the new motherboard back in and then re-connect the network card, graphics adapter, processor, heat sink, keyboard and plastic bezel. Flip the unit over and reconnect the RAM modules. Reattach all the screws and then pop the battery back into the case.

7.Power the PC back on and wait for the operating system to finish loading to make sure the motherboard was installed correctly. Attach the USB device into the new USB port and attempt to use it again.

Sep 17, 2011 | Dell OptiPlex GX270 PC Desktop

1 Answer

How to open my MicroSolutions External DVD drives' case, I am interested in using the case for a new internal drive. Thanks!


I can't give you exact information, only generic.

The case comes apart in two halves. A top half, and a bottom half. This is evidenced by the parting line in the middle.
There are screws which should hold the two case halves together.

Generally they are hidden underneath labels. The label, or thin blue plastic cover is peeled back to expose the screw heads.
Screws may have a Philips head, or a Torx head. (Internal star shape)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx

After removing the screws it may take an additional force, to 'pop' the two case halves apart.

Oct 29, 2010 | Micro Solutions Backpack CD-RW/DVD-ROM...

1 Answer

Trying to remove the cover over the gauges to replace the stereo in a 87 ford ranger


there is plastic trim in the middle of the complete dash,between the metal bottom and the dash pad,it just pops right off, remove the ashtray,you will see 4 screws directly under the section you trying to remove,remove them,now above the gauges,and above the stereo, and under the dash pad you will see ,i think 5 or 6 screws, remove them,now take a putty knife or straight screwdriver ang get under the plastic on top, carefully pry down and pull towards you, once you get it pulled out, pull it up out, just be carefull..it is plastic and will break..

Oct 03, 2010 | 1987 Ford Ranger

2 Answers

My Royal SovereignARP-3012 lower blower fan wheel broke


This is a difficult repair and no easy cake at all. The one internal part you can order from Royal Sovereign is the lower blower wheel. Perhaps this is because it breaks easily. Begin by draining the unit by removing the rubber plug at lower left. Remove 14 (count them) from the back. Remove additional positioning screws that hold the case side to the metal frame. Take out the two screws on the underside of the outer casing. Unclip the plastic tie that holds a temperature sensor to the rear radiator, and remove the the sensor gently. Spread the casing gently apart and push it away from the chassis a few inches. Reach into the front and unplug the three electronic connectors that link the display panel to the chassis. Note that the two leads that go to the lower part of the chassis go into positions 1 and 3 - the middle connector is not used. Now remove the casing entirely. Take a photo on all sides for reference and get some masking tape ready. You will see an upper blower casing and a lower blower casing, around which are arranged the condenser and two radiators, held in place by four press-formed metal chassis frames and two plastic chassis supports. Do not proceed until you mark where all the screws into the metal supports go. Failure to do this may end up with putting chassis support screws into holes meant for the back panel, making it impossible to reassemble the outer casing. Remove the grounding wire on the right side facing the rear. Tape the screws to the chassis part and note the color of the leads. Mark the location of the screw so you do not put it in wrong place on re-assembly. Do the same with the double green and yellow wires connected to the other side. Disassemble the bracket holding the white metal electrical condenser, noting carefully how the bracket is designed to clamp the condenser in place. Remove all the screws holding all four corner chassis supports, and mark exactly where the screws go. Stick these screws to a piece of tape and label it. Remove all screws holding the upper plastic chassis frame, marking screw locations carefully. Note that some of these screws hold the upper blower casing in place. Stick these screws to another piece of tape and label it. Working from the rear, and using a long phillips head screwdriver, remove two screws that hold the base of the upper blower assembly. Check gently to see if the assembly is now loosened and can be lifted but do not lift it yet. Remove any other screws that impede. Remove the uper chassis support carefully. This is a tricky move, take your time. Remove the tape that holds wiring on the middle plastic chassis support member and put it somewhere you can get it again, you will need it on reassembly. Once the upper blower assembly is removable, lift it EXACTLY vertically to clear the cleats at the base, then carefully rotate it towards you and place it upside down in front of the unit. There is just enough wire to allow you to do this. Remove and tape screws as needed to liberate the middle chassis support member. Remove and tape the two screws that hold the lower blower casing to the deck chassis support. This is where it gets tricky. Remove the middle chassis support but be very careful to support the upper radiator as you do so. Remove and record the location of any other screws that hold the lower blower casing. Tip the upper radiator as little as possible to allow the lower blower casing to be lifted up out of the chassis floor, and out to the side. tis is a difficult move and it is easy to damage the fins of the radiators. Remove the front of the lower blower casing, and remove the blown-up old wheel. Put the new blower wheel onto the motor shaft and make DAMN sure the nut is on tight. Otherwise the wheel will slowly travel up the shaft, rub against the radiator in front and you will have to do it all over again. Reassemble in reverse order. When you re-connect the wiring of the outer casing, be sure to connect the lower wires in front into positions 1 and 3, leaving the center blade open. You will be glad you recorded the exact location of every screw, trust me. It took me seven days to figure this out, even after worming out the service manual and an exploded view from the company (both useless for this repair except for debugging misplaced electrical connections). Easy cake indeed.

Jun 04, 2009 | Royal Sovereign ARP-3012 Air Conditioner

3 Answers

Can't get the spoiler, that holds the 3rd brake light on the off


regarding chevy equinox spoiler there are three 10mm bolts one on each end and one in the middle then there are three pins in the middle that snap in. these are very difficult to release without breaking them. If they break use a two part adhesive sparingly to hold the spoiler down or it will hit when you open the hatch.

Apr 05, 2009 | 2005 Chevrolet Equinox

2 Answers

I cant get the old bulb out of the projector, ive removed all the screws but it wont budge


You really have to pull on it to get it out, it's really wedged into the housing

Jan 07, 2009 | Sharp XR-10X Multimedia Projector

1 Answer

AOC lm929 monitor


AOC LM929 or Envision EN-7100 removal instructions:

DANGER!!! UNPLUG and allow the monitor to discharge before servicing.

with a small flat head screwdriver, insert into the edge and pop open the small plastic

pieces that surround where the stand connects to the monitor. put plastic pieces aside.

lay monitor on soft flat surface front side DOWN. with a phillips head screwdriver,

remove 4 screws in the center that hold on the stand. put stand and screws aside.

lay monitor on soft flat surface front side UP. insert flat head screwdriver into the

side edge of the grey plastic and turn screw driver so the plastic surrounding the

screen edge pops up exposing an area surrounding the screen. put plastic rectangle

piece aside.

slide out plastic buttons piece from the side and put aside.

with a phillips head screwdriver, remove 8 screws (4 on top and 4 on bottom) that hold

the screen assembly to the back housing. now lift screen assembly out of the plastic

housing. put back plastic housing and screws aside AND lay the monitor screen with the

FRONT side down on a flat soft surface.

with a phillips head screwdriver, remove 2 screws that hold on the metal electronics

cover. slide the cover down and remove. put the cover and screws aside.

USE CAUTION!!! Some components may still contain a charge.

check fuse... whatever...

Aug 29, 2008 | Computers & Internet

3 Answers

Replacing lcd on casio ex-s600


Hey i found this site that is great on how to change a LCD for the camera

http://digitalcamerarepair.googlepages.com

Oct 08, 2007 | Casio Exilim EX-S600 Digital Camera

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