Question about GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven
The Lower Element (bake element) burned out. I replaced the element but it still won't work. Everything else Including the upper element and oven light works. When you test the voltage on the wires that attach to the element you get these results. The left wire reads 13.88 volts. The right wire reads 118 volts. When you put one test lead on the right wire and the other the left wirethe reading is 40.2 volts. Readings were taken when the oven was set on 350 on the temp dial and Bake on the switch dial. Can you tell me what is wrong?
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
On appliances like this only the heating elements use 220 volts. things like the clock, fan, etc use 110 volts. That is why some things work and other do not. Start at the breaker, sometimes a double pole breaker will have 1 side tripped, but will look perfectly fine. switch the breaker all the way to off then re-set. If nothing changes follow the power to the appliance remove the panel and look for some fuses, check to see if any are blown. Also sometimes the microwave will have a separate power source even though its built in to the same appliance. So that's not always a good symptom to follow.
Posted on Nov 11, 2007
On these older ovens ther is usually always 120 volts on the elements at all times.
If you check across the element ends with it in bake you should read 240V. If not, there is a problem with the control. With the voltage drop you describe, it sounds like you are losing power on one line of voltage coming to the element.
Post back to let me know what you find out or if you have any questions.
Posted on Nov 24, 2007
If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style - amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If less
than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. Faulty gas valve is uncommon, but still a
small possibility. Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528, WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265;
rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108.
Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.
PS For your model number the original part number was WB13K4 or WB13K0004, which is a round ignitor, though on the breakdown a rectangular one is shown, so check carefully.
Posted on Jul 15, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 31, 2018 | Maytag Ovens
Dec 05, 2014 | GE Ovens
Aug 06, 2014 | Whirlpool GBD307PDS Electric Double Oven
Jan 08, 2012 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven
If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right, then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.
Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly
Dec 11, 2010 | GE JTP85 Electric Double Oven
Nov 04, 2010 | Whirlpool 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...
Oct 08, 2010 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven
Aug 17, 2009 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven
Jan 30, 2009 | Thermador Ovens
Oct 08, 2008 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven
Feb 16, 2014 | GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven
1,085 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!