Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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GE profile side by side wiring connection question

When replacing the two defrost heaters I found a wire with male connector (white with stripe (brown ?) hanging there by the defroster heater main coonector. Any ideas what it connects too?

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  • Anonymous Mar 17, 2014

    WR9X480 has black wire loop attached to terminal#1 and black wire from inside timer attached to terminal #3. Do I leave these wires as is and connect the color coded wires to the terminals or do I remove the black wires first? Do I detach the black wire black wire from Terminal #3 and use it as the ground?

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  • 184 Answers

IT COULD BE A JUMPER FOR THE DEFROST BI-METAL OR A
WIRE USED FOR DIAGNOSTICS OF SOME KIND. IF THERE ISN'T ANYTHING AROUND TO PLUG IT INTO, I WOULDN'T BE CONCERNED. IF THE REFRIGERATOR DOESN'T OPERATE PROPERLY LATER ON, THAT MIGHT BE ONE PLACE I WOULD REVISIT.

Posted on Apr 10, 2008

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GE Profile Artica no display


I would inspect the wires that are located at the bottom left freezer hinge, opening and closing tends to break the wires over time. crimp the broken wires into a sleeve type connector, there will be little to no slack to use wire nuts. If the wires are perfect, you might need a new display board, but the wires are the prime suspect...

May 02, 2016 | GE Profile PSI23SGR Arctica¿...

1 Answer

Ge side by side frig won't defrost gss25sgmb new heater motherboard thermostats


Replace the thermistors #4 and #5 . 4 is the white bullet looking piece on top of the coils inside the freezer , with 2 white wires . 5 is at the bottom of the freezer , on the left side . These thermistors tell the main board , the temp and the board goes into defrost according to temp the thermistors "tell it " .

Aug 14, 2012 | GE GSS25SGMBS Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

GE GSH22KGM Frig not defrosting again


I would suggest replacing the # 4 thermistor , which is a 1 " long white piece with 2 white wires attached , clipped to the top of the coils . This thermistor , tells the main control board , the temperature of the coils and the board decides what to do next , such as defrost , end defrost cycle . Also , replace the defrost thermostat , the 1 inch cylinder with 2 wires going to it , which is also clipped onto the coils . This thermostat , cuts the heater off when it reaches a certain temperature , to keep the food from defrosting . It may also help , to replace the # 5 thermistor , which is below the coils , slid into a housing , with 2 white wires going to it also . This thermistor , tells the board , the actual freezer temp , so the compressor will cycle off/on , and the fan speed also . All 3 parts , are relatively not expensive . Be sure to get wire connectors because they do not come with these parts .

Apr 14, 2010 | GE GSH22KGM Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Same howling noise here


Ok nx , I will try to help you .
1 ) unplug the refrig , and on the back , remove the panel covering the
board.
2 ) unplug the blue conector on the board , with 3 larger wires connected to it . looking at the connector , you will see
wire1 , wire2 , space , wire3 .
3 ) find a short piece of insulated wire , and strip both ends about 1/2 inch , and insert one end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Leave the connector unplugged .
4 ) plug in the refrig . After about 1 min , look inside the freezer , at the bottom , looking for a red glow . If no red glow , then the problem is the heater or defrost thermostat ( the 1" cylinder , with a pink and blue wire going to it , clipped to the top right on the coils ) . If you replace the heater , replace the defrost thermostat also .
5 ) if you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is probably bad . This is the 1" white torpedo looking piece , with 2 wires going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils . This thermistor works off resistance by coldness , and sends the signal to the control board . When the control board registers this resistance for so long , it will go into the defrost cycle , causing the heater to come on .

The fan howling , could be from trying to pull air up thru the frosted coils. The # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly foreward of the drain , inserted into a holder , with 2 white wires going to it , tells the control board what the freezer temp is . This thermistor , could be bad , varying the resistance message to the control board , causing the fan speed fluctuations .



Sep 30, 2009 | GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by...

1 Answer

Yellow and green wire not connected to anything and freezer is not defrosting properly.


If you have a GE Profile Artica the reason that defrost most likey does not happen is because the defrost heater is defective. Now you mentioned the yellow and green wires are not connected, I need to know where you see these wires and why you know that they are causing the refrigerator not to defrost. Now if you have a different model than the one listed above your post I need to know that mode number so we can get this thing defrosting. Sea Breeze

Sep 05, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Ge side by side profile. freezer works fine, all


Hi!

First of all you need to clean the coils (condenser coils under the unit or evaporator coils inside the freezer). The coils inside could be iced over because of failure of defrost system. Now check that the condenser fan under the fridge is working properly. Check that the fan in the freezer work which pulls cold air from the coils inside freezer and blows it to the fridge side. Are the temperature control knobs in the fridge adjusted correctly? It actually just opens a vent to let more or less cold air in from the freezer. It takes a while for the ice to build up in the freezer enough to affect the cooling.

My first guess would be the defrost timer. You can manually turn it to engage the defrost cycle and observe whether or not the defrost heaters come on. Now use a hair dryer to speed up melting the ice when there is lots of ice buildup. Most timers are 24 hour timers. It will turn the defroster on every 6 or maybe 12 hours depending on the model.

Before testing the defrost heater, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Please do rate this solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Jun 24, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Where is the defrost timer located on GE model# GSS20IEMDWW side by side refrigerator? My freezer works but the other side is warm. I took the freezer panel off and it had a thick layer of frost...


This model does not have a defrost timer. It has a motherboard. You must jump out the plug to the main board to test the defrost circuit. In order to do this take the cover off of the main board, find the three wire connector on the base of the main board, connecter is normally blue in color. On the board itself it will identify termials as line, defrost, and compressor. To test you must create a jumper wire.Install the jumper in the plug terminals identified as line and defrost.This will turn the defrost heater on. If the heater does not come on, look for a defective heater or a defrost thermostat(mounted on the top of the evaporator). If the heater does come on replace the thermister(located on top of evap, white in color and has two white wires part#WR55x10025)

Jun 04, 2009 | GE GSS25SGMBS Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Side by Side refrigerator has frost build up in freezer.


we ll see how u need to check the defrost timer....
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the appliance. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, shuts off power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only when the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer advances, power to the heating element shuts off and power is restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in, respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.

Test the timer for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the common wire in the connector plug; it is usually the white wire.
Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.

Before testing the defrost heater, again make sure u unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The defrost heater is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear or bottom inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way. The heater is connected by two wires.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Test the heating element for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. If the reading is not between those two extremes the heating element should be replaced.


this is how u check the thermostat..... again Before testing the defrost thermostat, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Some defrost systems use a thermostat (a bi-metal switch) to prevent the defrost heater from overheating. The switch is normally closed. During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a circuit again and the defrost heater starts heating again (as long as the defrost timer is in the defrost cycle). A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire. The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky -never force it. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk - it is prone to breaking. Try warming it first with a warm, wet towel. The thermostat is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors or a wiring harness. Firmly pull the connectors or harness off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced. Test the thermostat for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero when the thermostat is cold and a reading of infinity when it is warm (40 to 90 degrees F depending on the model). If the thermostat does not pass this test it should be replaced. with regard to the parts incase u need a replacement..... check out the below link.... http://www.repairclinic.com/GE-Freezer-Parts?s=b3a3c221

Jan 11, 2009 | GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by...

1 Answer

My ge model GSS22JFMCWW has frost on the inside of the freezer. I understand it to be a problem with the defrost thermostat, heater or timer. Is there a way to test each unit to see which is bad? Can I...


we ll see how u need to check the defrost timer....
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the appliance. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, shuts off power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only when the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer advances, power to the heating element shuts off and power is restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in, respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.

Test the timer for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the common wire in the connector plug; it is usually the white wire.
Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.

Before testing the defrost heater, again make sure u unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The defrost heater is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear or bottom inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way. The heater is connected by two wires.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Test the heating element for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. If the reading is not between those two extremes the heating element should be replaced.

Jan 11, 2009 | GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by...

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