I have a Dayton warehouse heater that had a bad spill switch. I replaced the switch and the heater ran fine. A week later the switch tripped. The owner and I believe that the unit may need an inducer fan on the exaust vent pipe. What do you think.
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It sounds like either the high limit or the spill switch is bad. These are snap disc thermo safety devices. Locate and jump out, one at a time. If unit works when you jump out the limit, replace it. The same goes for the spill switch.
When the trigger is released, pressure builds up and this acts on a valve (spill valve or pressure control valve). When this pressure is big enough it will push the spill valve out and closes a micro switch. Now this Spill Valve gets stuck sometimes, mainly due to soap and chemicals...so the micro switch is not closed...so the machine contiues running. If this is left likee this it will cause damage to the valves. So all one has to do is service the spill valve or as I usually do I replace it. There are cases were the micro switch is damaged also..and needs to be replaced. To see the spill valve and micro switch you must open the cover. The spill valve is located where you see a cover with an electric wire coming out of it. If the micro switch is good...you must tackle the Spill valve.
Have you tried the flue vent? If not, an easy way to check this would be to take the vent pipe off of the unit and see if it continues to have the problem. In most cases, this happens when you have blocked return air or dirty filters, flue blocked, or induction is blocked from switch or housing. One other possibility would be a dirty/clogged a coil which isn't allowing sufficient air to push out causing the limit to trip. I hope this helps somewhat.
Sounds like it has a bad fan switch wich is no more than a small circular bi-metal switch that expands when heated closing a switch. Get a parts breakdown off the net. I am sure you could find the switch in your area and replace it yourself.
There is a valve called the spill-valve. It is often called the control valve. This valve activates the micro-switch. When the gun is released, pressure builds up and compresses this spill valve. At the same time it puts off the micro-switch. This will then stop the machine. Now when the spill valve is faulty it cannot hold compreesion under pressure so it starts de-compressing and starts the machine again. This goes on in a cycle as you explained. So you have to change the spill valve. If the spill valve that operates the micro-switch is part of the upper head,...then the whole head must be renewed. Myself I rarely service Spill Valves. The best thing is to renew it. From your explanation it seems that you did not take notice of this Spill-Valve. Infact when you mentioned Pressure Switch, I do not know if you are refering to the spill valve. If you are....then saying that the Pressure Switch moves and operates freely, does not mean that it is OK.
In certain machines in the outlet...there is a small valve, coloured black and red or green and yellow. This sometimes when faulty, it gives the fault you mentioned. Sometimes an inlet valve gives the fault you mentioned. But from my expirience it is most of the time that the Spill-Valve is the fault.
The majority of power washers have a spill valve or sometimes called a Control Valve. This spill valve will contract when the gun is closed. As it contracts it switches off a micro switch. Also at the base of the spill valve, an opening opens to let water circulate. Now if this Spill Valve is defective, it will make the machine lose pressure and it will make the machine switch on and off also. I sometimes service the Spill valve and lubricate with special Silicon grease. But if the end of the Spill Valve is not closing correctly, then I suggest that the Spill Valve be renewed. To come to see the Spill Valve, you have to open the cover. Most probably you see wires or a thick wire attached to the head. The part attached to the head contains the micro-switch. Remove the Miro-Switch holder and then you might see screws holding the jammed or faulty spill valve. If you cannot pull the spill valve out, try attaching water and sometimes you can switch on the machine for a second...and with the pressure,...the spill valve will be spitted out.
The switching of ON and OFF due to a faulty Spill Valve, will for sure damage the capacitor. A damaged spill valve gives all these symptoms. Machine going on and off while gun closed and while gun opened, and added to these,... pressure gets less. One small other hint....if all is OK with the machine, and when spraying the machine goes on and off....this is due to a blocked nozzel.