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Intermitant dryer heat

Sometimes the dryer heats and sometimes it doesn't. We just never know when those times will be. I reset the breaker....no change. The dryer does not trip the breaker. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

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  • Ron Coons
    Ron Coons May 11, 2010

    gas or electrinc, model and make will be helpful

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I have found that in some model of the kenmore the wire going to the plug on the motor is lose on the conection since the power for the heat runs throw the cintrafugl switch it happens

Posted on Mar 19, 2008

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I have a whirlpool electric dryer.. when I turn it on its been having a problem with staying on or not heating at all. It will spin and stay on but no heat.we have changed the element and it seemed fi


Sounds like a tripped circuit breaker in the power panel for the house. The breaker for the dryer is actually 2 breakers connected together so if one trips so will the other. Sometimes this does not happen and only one breaker trips. This condition removes power to the heating element but still supplies power to the rest of the dryer. Check to see if the breaker will reset by turning off and back on several times. Then check the power receptacle that the dryer plugs into with a voltmeter set to read 240 volts AC. If no 240 but 115 is present then replace the circuit breaker.

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DOESNT HEAT AND I SMELL GAS


Hello - From what you are describing, if the dryer only heats up sometimes but provides a gas odor, it could possibly be a defective gas supply or igniter. Try resetting the unit by unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. Wait approximately ten minutes and turn on the fuse for the dryer. Turn on the dryer and select a normal cycle. If it proves to be ineffective and if the issue continues I suggest contacting a professional to move forward accurately. Keep in mind since it is such a complex unit, the technician will likely verify that it doesn't have a defective sensor, control board or high limit thermostat.

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1 Answer

Our dryer doesn't dry clothes like it should, sometimes takes a long long time and other times quick and the clothes feel really hot, model # is DLE 2532W


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Power from the house

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element is easy to replace. Check our videos for other types of dryer heating elements.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and easy to replace.

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Sep 27, 2012 | LG DLE2532W Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer runs, but does not heat. Just started this. Model # LEQ1442ESO


Hello, The first thing to check is the house breaker. This unit uses half the breaker to run and the otherhalf to heat. Sometimes resetting the breaker is all it is. If this helps please dont forget to rate me :) Thanks

Jun 07, 2011 | Frigidaire Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer will run, buy does not heat up. I have model MCE8000AYW. I runs like normal, but does not heat up. We just moved and I had the dryer plugged in, but the dryer breaker was not turned on. I turned the...


First, in many cases, the dryer actually IS heating, but there’s just not enough airflow out the vent to take advantage of it, so the end result’s the same as ‘no heat’.So first determine that there’s a strong flow of air out the vent. I can’t stress this enough - low airflow’s the no. 1 cause of dryer problems, not to mention dryer fires. Then check if there’s any heat in the drum when running empty. Note: there's finally a simple, inexpensive tool to test airflow in Whirlpool-built dryers!
If there doesn’t seem to be any heat at all, first check for 240V present at the dryer. I can tell you that many hours have been wasted over the years by not *doing this first*!Neglecting this is probably THE most common mistake of the novice appliance tech (and some pros who should know better! <g> ).

If you have a voltmeter or 240V bulb, just check for 240V at the dryer term. block, and you will save some aggravation and possibly a service call.

If you have no way to test this, or you are at all uneasy about messing with 240V (you HAVE read my disclaimer, right?), just go to your breaker box and throw the dryer breaker off/on several times.(If your dryer is connected with fuses, replace both of them and try it again.)Sometimes - just sometimes - resetting the breaker will restore 240V, especially in damp basements.

(On the handiest tool list: a 240V/10W bulb with leads/alligator clips, carried in your pocket - a real timesaver, and far superior to neon testers)
How you proceed from here depends on your abilities, and I’m not able to get too involved in this short article.I’d probably suggest calling a pro if you’ve proven 240V to the machine, there definitely is no heat, and there’s plenty of air out the vent. A pro sees this problem every day and can usually diagnose it in 10-15 minutes.
I will say to those of you who are ‘handy’ - start at the heat source and work *backwards*.If there’s nothing obvious (burnt wiring, etc) attach that 240V bulb to the element leads (or gas valve 120V supply), and fire the dryer up.
Light = open element (gas control/ignition system problems).
No light = other problems (thermal fuse, t'stat, etc).

Keep it simple.This one usually is.





courtesy: davesrepair




regards
iversh

Sep 27, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer not drying


On gas dryers an intermitting heat problem is almost always the coils on the gas valve. http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/

Sep 18, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer is tumbling but not heating up properly so it takes forever to dry. It is plugged in, gas is connected, just replaced the vent to the outside cuz thought that might be it.


If there doesn’t seem to be any heat at all, first check for 240V present at the dryer. I can tell you that many hours have been wasted over the years by not *doing this first*!Neglecting this is probably THE most common mistake of the novice appliance tech (and some pros who should know better! <g> ).

If you have a voltmeter or 240V bulb, just check for 240V at the dryer term. block, and you will save some aggravation and possibly a service call.

If you have no way to test this, or you are at all uneasy about messing with 240V (you HAVE read my disclaimer, right?), just go to your breaker box and throw the dryer breaker off/on several times.(If your dryer is connected with fuses, replace both of them and try it again.)Sometimes - just sometimes - resetting the breaker will restore 240V, especially in damp basements.

(On the handiest tool list: a 240V/10W bulb with leads/alligator clips, carried in your pocket - a real timesaver, and far superior to neon testers)
How you proceed from here depends on your abilities, and I’m not able to get too involved in this short article.I’d probably suggest calling a pro if you’ve proven 240V to the machine, there definitely is no heat, and there’s plenty of air out the vent. A pro sees this problem every day and can usually diagnose it in 10-15 minutes.
I will say to those of you who are ‘handy’ - start at the heat source and work *backwards*.If there’s nothing obvious (burnt wiring, etc) attach that 240V bulb to the element leads (or gas valve 120V supply), and fire the dryer up.
Light = open element (gas control/ignition system problems).
No light = other problems (thermal fuse, t'stat, etc).

Keep it simple.This one usually is.

Aug 30, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer is not heating


First, in many cases, the dryer actually IS heating, but there’s just not enough airflow out the vent to take advantage of it, so the end result’s the same as ‘no heat’.So first determine that there’s a strong flow of air out the vent. I can’t stress this enough - low airflow’s the no. 1 cause of dryer problems, not to mention dryer fires. Then check if there’s any heat in the drum when running empty. Note: there's finally a simple, inexpensive tool to test airflow in Whirlpool-built dryers!
If there doesn’t seem to be any heat at all, first check for 240V present at the dryer. I can tell you that many hours have been wasted over the years by not *doing this first*!Neglecting this is probably THE most common mistake of the novice appliance tech (and some pros who should know better! <g> ).

If you have a voltmeter or 240V bulb, just check for 240V at the dryer term. block, and you will save some aggravation and possibly a service call.

If you have no way to test this, or you are at all uneasy about messing with 240V (you HAVE read my disclaimer, right?), just go to your breaker box and throw the dryer breaker off/on several times.(If your dryer is connected with fuses, replace both of them and try it again.)Sometimes - just sometimes - resetting the breaker will restore 240V, especially in damp basements.

(On the handiest tool list: a 240V/10W bulb with leads/alligator clips, carried in your pocket - a real timesaver, and far superior to neon testers)
How you proceed from here depends on your abilities, and I’m not able to get too involved in this short article.I’d probably suggest calling a pro if you’ve proven 240V to the machine, there definitely is no heat, and there’s plenty of air out the vent. A pro sees this problem every day and can usually diagnose it in 10-15 minutes.
I will say to those of you who are ‘handy’ - start at the heat source and work *backwards*.If there’s nothing obvious (burnt wiring, etc) attach that 240V bulb to the element leads (or gas valve 120V supply), and fire the dryer up.
Light = open element (gas control/ignition system problems).
No light = other problems (thermal fuse, t'stat, etc).

Keep it simple.This one usually is.





courtesy: davesrepair




regards
iversh

Mar 30, 2009 | Whirlpool LGQ9857L Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Model 110.76912691 gas dryer that heats intermitently


Replace the solenoids on the gas valve. These are often intermittent befor total failure. Hope this helps!

Feb 26, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer will heat sometimes; sometimes it will not.


i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Oct 01, 2008 | Kenmore 62972 Electric Dryer

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